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Chipping vs historical accuracy
gaz_ewart
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 04:04 AM UTC
One of my favourite blogs showing a Panzer 4, with scratches and chips to the zimmerite and to the turret armour.

https://www.scaledracula.com/historical-photo-of-the-day-3/
barnslayer
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 04:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

One of my favourite blogs showing a Panzer 4, with scratches and chips to the zimmerite and to the turret armour.

https://www.scaledracula.com/historical-photo-of-the-day-3/



Nice photos! Let's keep in mind the nature of zimmerit. It's not nearly as durable as steel. We often see wear and tear damage to it. That damage could reveal the natural color of zimmerit. I've read it was tan. Sawdust was a component. But most photos seem to show sections of zimmerit missing revealing the underlying tank paint.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 04:21 AM UTC
I hadn’t checked this thread for a while, so I was surprised to see a Sheridan in the photos above. Here’s my take on “chipping”. It’s pretty obvious, the longer a vehicle is in service, the more “chipping” will occur. Of course this is dependent on repaints, how well the crew maintains a vehicle, and the availability of painting materials and time. I know from my own experience in the 11th ACR 1976-80, if our vehicles had been in the field for any extended period (1-3 weeks), they’d begin to show some chipping effects (like the Sheridan above). This could even expose small (less than an inch) chunks of the aluminum hull beneath the paint. All this was dependent on the rate of wear in proportion to the rate of use. If we just sat for a while in a fixed position, the wear was actually higher from “boot traffic”. But moving from point to point would cause a combination of wear from stuff bouncing around, and onto the vehicle, in combination with “boot traffic”. Rubber soles don’t make a difference, as rubber tends to pick up small rocks that wear at the paint over time.

Fast forward To 2000, when I was associated with the repair depot at Camp Caroll Korea. The Depot was responsible for the rebuild and repaint of armored vehicles. Since CARC paint was universal by that time, the vehicles coming through the depot were usually in much better shape. CARC wears much better because of its Alkyd composition. It’s more like an epoxy finish than enamel based paints. I’d walk through the depot rebuild line, and see a vehicle that was damaged in an accident or being repainted for age. The CARC coating would come of bent fenders in great patches or strips, but it generally resisted chipping on armor plating. It would show scratches as lighter or darker colored area in the paint. Vehicles coming in for rebuild at the end of an age cycle always look well worn, generally more so than vehicles in the middle of their age cycle.

Bottom line, there are all kinds of factors that go into wear, and “chipping” in particular— time, age, quality of paint, how paint was applied, quality of maintenance, durability of the surface, texture of the surface paint is applied over, etc., etc, etc. So to say that there’s too much or to little wear to a model sitting on a contest table or in a display cabinet is rather subjective. The best way to tell is to have a reference, preferably a photo. I’m not sure a comment from a veteran is even a good source (including this one, but I do have a wide range of experience, over a 30 year period) as experiences are different, and not everyone will have the same experience. Some vehicles will last longer than others, they all won’t be replaced or repainted or refurbished at the same time. So to say something has too much or too little weathering is again, in general, is rather subjective. Time to pullout those references.
VR, Russ
landshark4
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 04:27 AM UTC
WWSD? What Would Shep Do? I would look at Shepard Paine's work. All his weathering is rather subtle and blends in. It would be interesting to see how his work would place in contest these days because there aren't these dramatic contrasts in shading, washing, chipping, etc.
barnslayer
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 04:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I hadn’t checked this thread for a while, so I was surprised to see a Sheridan in the photos above. Here’s my take on “chipping”. It’s pretty obvious, the longer a vehicle is in service, the more “chipping” will occur. Of course this is dependent on repaints, how well the crew maintains a vehicle, and the availability of painting materials and time. I know from my own experience in the 11th ACR 1976-80, if our vehicles had been in the field for any extended period (1-3 weeks), they’d begin to show some chipping effects (like the Sheridan above). This could even expose small (less than an inch) chunks of the aluminum hull beneath the paint. All this was dependent on the rate of wear in proportion to the rate of use. If we just sat for a while in a fixed position, the wear was actually higher from “boot traffic”. But moving from point to point would cause a combination of wear from stuff bouncing around, and onto the vehicle, in combination with “boot traffic”. Rubber soles don’t make a difference, as rubber tends to pick up small rocks that wear at the paint over time.

Fast forward To 2000, when I was associated with the repair depot at Camp Caroll Korea. The Depot was responsible for the rebuild and repaint of armored vehicles. Since CARC paint was universal by that time, the vehicles coming through the depot were usually in much better shape. CARC wears much better because of its Alkyd composition. It’s more like an epoxy finish than enamel based paints. I’d walk through the depot rebuild line, and see a vehicle that was damaged in an accident or being repainted for age. The CARC coating would come of bent fenders in great patches or strips, but it generally resisted chipping on armor plating. It would show scratches as lighter or darker colored area in the paint. Vehicles coming in for rebuild at the end of an age cycle always look well worn, generally more so than vehicles in the middle of their age cycle.

Bottom line, there are all kinds of factors that go into wear, and “chipping” in particular— time, age, quality of paint, how paint was applied, quality of maintenance, durability of the surface, texture of the surface paint is applied over, etc., etc, etc. So to say that there’s too much or to little wear to a model sitting on a contest table or in a display cabinet is rather subjective. The best way to tell is to have a reference, preferably a photo. I’m not sure a comment from a veteran is even a good source (including this one, but I do have a wide range of experience, over a 30 year period) as experiences are different, and not everyone will have the same experience. Some vehicles will last longer than others, they all won’t be replaced or repainted or refurbished at the same time. So to say something has too much or too little weathering is again, in general, is rather subjective. Time to pullout those references.
VR, Russ



WW2 pattern American boots had a rather flat tread pattern. Certainly nothing that could retain debris. Certainly nothing like contemporary designs .

Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 04:43 AM UTC
Here are two photos of PZIV's. One is fairly well knackered and the other relatively fresh. They show the extremes of paint damage and wear and tear.

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/tanks-2-3/panzer-iv/im-westen-panzer-iv-2-2/

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/tanks-2-3/panzer-iv/italien-panzer-iv-6/
Bravo1102
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 05:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text



WW2 pattern American boots had a rather flat tread pattern. Certainly nothing that could retain debris. Certainly nothing like contemporary designs .




There are all kinds of boots worn by troops postwar from the cap toed tanker boots with a smooth sole like that to the ranger boots with complex tread.

You could kick a part and it'd chip. You step in mud and you track it everywhere. Boots is boots. My ten years I had four very different pairs and the wear they left was pretty uniform.

And CARC is pretty much like said above, except that some repainting was done so thick that it would just flake and even strip off.

Research, research, research. You find a look, replicate it. My favorite is tank in the rain. You can do gloss, dark versus light, fresh mud versus dry dirt all on one vehicle. And you can splatter mud everywhere when some idiot drives past your vehicle at speed and the muck flies everywhere.

A
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 05:53 AM UTC
Just a comment on “boots”. I’ve worn several types of combat boots in the 30 years I served, from standard issue low tread (similar to the soles posted above) to Vibram soled, heavy tread patterns. All boots, regardless of tread, will pick up dirt, sand, gravel, and mud especially (as Stephen said above), either in the tread surfaces or embedded in the rubber or leather sole. It’s the nature of walking on unpaved (or even some paved) surfaces. This material won’t necessarily stay with the sole permanently, but it will be enough to scuff or mar a surface over time and repeated use. Would you take off your flat leather soled street shoes now and run them over the hood of your brand new Corvette? This is especially hard on a surface that is repeatedly accessed, such as the forward slope of a tank, the crew entry points, or a turret roof. Crews frequently use flat spots and grab handles to get on and off, use as dinning tables, repair benches, or storage places. In the case of a WWII tank, there will be at least five pairs of boots repeatedly accessing the vehicle, for Cold War vehicles it’ll be at least 4 pairs (in general terms). Add in crew equipment such as helmets, weapons, ammo containers and ammo, various supplies and change-outs of radios, weapons (that .30, .50, 7.62, Grease Gun, Thompson, M240, M73, M5, MG 42, ad. Infinitum—these were not statically mounted for show). All this stuff requires moving, handling and servicing on the vehicle. And this, as well as boot wear, can add up and do a significant amount of wear and damage to the paint. It’s one reason we repainted twice a year in the 11 Cav. (The other main reason was to switch from summer to winter verdant schemes) but before we got to repaint, our vehicles could look pretty shabby. And by the way, we used MOGAS (an old WWII trick) to thin our paint, which made the paint even less durable).
VR, Russ

P.S. As for the boots pictured above, would you wear them outside on a rainy day, in the mud, and then wear them inside on your hardwood floors? I wouldn’t if I wanted to live— my wife would kill me. And the reason is because that mud and the debris in it will scratch, mar and wear the floor. More-so with a painted surface. See those holes and that design in the sole? And the diamond tread pattern? And the “step” between heel and arch? All “hiding places” for fine gravel, sand and debris. And what about those copper rivets? They’ll become more exposed as the rubber wears.
VR, Russ
barnslayer
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 06:10 AM UTC

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WW2 pattern American boots had a rather flat tread pattern. Certainly nothing that could retain debris. Certainly nothing like contemporary designs .




There are all kinds of boots worn by troops postwar from the cap toed tanker boots with a smooth sole like that to the ranger boots with complex tread.

You could kick a part and it'd chip. You step in mud and you track it everywhere. Boots is boots. My ten years I had four very different pairs and the wear they left was pretty uniform.

And CARC is pretty much like said above, except that some repainting was done so thick that it would just flake and even strip off.

Research, research, research. You find a look, replicate it. My favorite is tank in the rain. You can do gloss, dark versus light, fresh mud versus dry dirt all on one vehicle. And you can splatter mud everywhere when some idiot drives past your vehicle at speed and the muck flies everywhere.

A



I don't think we should compare modern era wear to WW2.
The boots worn by the US were as I've shown. Unlike in later years, that was all that was available. Paint formulas and availability of touch up paint post WW2 further hinder a comparison. Finally, the limited average life span of a tank from WW2 is different than post war era tanks. Whether it's the quality of photos from back then or not we don't see chipping to the extent we do on modeler's renderings.
My daily driver is a Jeep Wrangler with factory painted door sills. No plastic guards. 4 years later there are no signs of paint wear. My footwear is 100% workboots, treads, dirt, pebbles and all.
I'm not trying to dictate what modelers do. Just realize it's your interpretation and not necessarily historically accurate.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 06:24 AM UTC

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WW2 pattern American boots had a rather flat tread pattern. Certainly nothing that could retain debris. Certainly nothing like contemporary designs .




There are all kinds of boots worn by troops postwar from the cap toed tanker boots with a smooth sole like that to the ranger boots with complex tread.

You could kick a part and it'd chip. You step in mud and you track it everywhere. Boots is boots. My ten years I had four very different pairs and the wear they left was pretty uniform.

And CARC is pretty much like said above, except that some repainting was done so thick that it would just flake and even strip off.

Research, research, research. You find a look, replicate it. My favorite is tank in the rain. You can do gloss, dark versus light, fresh mud versus dry dirt all on one vehicle. And you can splatter mud everywhere when some idiot drives past your vehicle at speed and the muck flies everywhere.

A



I don't think we should compare modern era wear to WW2.
The boots worn by the US were as I've shown. Unlike in later years, that was all that was available. Paint formulas and availability of touch up paint post WW2 further hinder a comparison. Finally, the limited average life span of a tank from WW2 is different than post war era tanks. Whether it's the quality of photos from back then or not we don't see chipping to the extent we do on modeler's renderings.
My daily driver is a Jeep Wrangler with factory painted door sills. No plastic guards. 4 years later there are no signs of paint wear. My footwear is 100% workboots, treads, dirt, pebbles and all.
I'm not trying to dictate what modelers do. Just realize it's your interpretation and not necessarily historically accurate.



Nor should we compare your Jeep Wrangler with 3-4 coats of dipped primer and sprayed Acrylic Lacquer PPG paint with an overcoat or clear acrylic lacquer. No WWII vehicle had that (and up until CARC paint few modern vehicles had anything like that). What they got was usually 1 coat of lead based primer paint, with a Camo coat. Not really a fair comparison. And really, how much difference in sole pattern is there between those WWII boots and issue boots of the 70s? My issue boots back then certainly didn’t have the copper rivets, they were nylon stitched. They had a very similar tread pattern and depth. But my crew and I managed to do a considerable amount of wear on our Sheridan (see the vehicle in the photo posted earlier) now, granted, that’s not just from dirty boots, as I mentioned above, but dirty boots are a contributing factor. And as mentioned, wear is really a combination of time, action, paint quality, maintenance, and weather. These factors are really the primary ingredients in ”chipping” and “weathering”, and will vary as the conditions vary. Again, check references for accuracy when choosing levels of weathering. Don’t think of such things in “general terms”.
VR, Russ
barnslayer
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 06:35 AM UTC

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WW2 pattern American boots had a rather flat tread pattern. Certainly nothing that could retain debris. Certainly nothing like contemporary designs .




There are all kinds of boots worn by troops postwar from the cap toed tanker boots with a smooth sole like that to the ranger boots with complex tread.

You could kick a part and it'd chip. You step in mud and you track it everywhere. Boots is boots. My ten years I had four very different pairs and the wear they left was pretty uniform.

And CARC is pretty much like said above, except that some repainting was done so thick that it would just flake and even strip off.

Research, research, research. You find a look, replicate it. My favorite is tank in the rain. You can do gloss, dark versus light, fresh mud versus dry dirt all on one vehicle. And you can splatter mud everywhere when some idiot drives past your vehicle at speed and the muck flies everywhere.

A



I don't think we should compare modern era wear to WW2.
The boots worn by the US were as I've shown. Unlike in later years, that was all that was available. Paint formulas and availability of touch up paint post WW2 further hinder a comparison. Finally, the limited average life span of a tank from WW2 is different than post war era tanks. Whether it's the quality of photos from back then or not we don't see chipping to the extent we do on modeler's renderings.
My daily driver is a Jeep Wrangler with factory painted door sills. No plastic guards. 4 years later there are no signs of paint wear. My footwear is 100% workboots, treads, dirt, pebbles and all.
I'm not trying to dictate what modelers do. Just realize it's your interpretation and not necessarily historically accurate.



Yes, but your Jeep Wrangler has 3-4 coats of dipped primer and sprayed Acrylic Lacquer PPG paint with an overcoat or clear acrylic lacquer. No WWII vehicle had that. What they got was usually 1 coat of lead based primer paint, with a Camo coat. Not really a fair comparison. And really, how much difference in sole pattern is there between those WWII boots and issue boots of the 70s? My issue boots certainly didn’t have the copper rivets, they were nylon stitched. But my crew and I managed to do a considerable amount of wear on our Sheridan (see the vehicle in the photo posted earlier) now, granted, that’s not just from dirty boots, as I mentioned above, but dirty boots are a contributing factor. and as mentioned, wear is really a combination of time, action, paint quality, maintenance, and weather. These factors are really the primary ingredients in ”chipping” and weathering, and will vary as the conditions vary. Again, check references for accuracy when choosing levels of weathering. Don’t think of such things in “general terms”.
VR, Russ



All I'm saying is both boot configurations and paint quality have changed for the better since WW2. Paint is more durable and boots have drastically better traction. With that boot improvement comes the ability to retain pebbles and dirt. My Jeep reference is to show that paint used for strictly civilian use is holding up pretty darned well. Certainly CARC is even more durable than that. Despite that we just don't see evidence of American tanks with appreciable wear compared to that depicts on models.
PanzerKarl
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 06:36 AM UTC
This Panzer IV ausf G is well beat up.
Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 07:11 AM UTC

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WW2 pattern American boots had a rather flat tread pattern. Certainly nothing that could retain debris. Certainly nothing like contemporary designs .




There are all kinds of boots worn by troops postwar from the cap toed tanker boots with a smooth sole like that to the ranger boots with complex tread.

You could kick a part and it'd chip. You step in mud and you track it everywhere. Boots is boots. My ten years I had four very different pairs and the wear they left was pretty uniform.

And CARC is pretty much like said above, except that some repainting was done so thick that it would just flake and even strip off.

Research, research, research. You find a look, replicate it. My favorite is tank in the rain. You can do gloss, dark versus light, fresh mud versus dry dirt all on one vehicle. And you can splatter mud everywhere when some idiot drives past your vehicle at speed and the muck flies everywhere.

A



I don't think we should compare modern era wear to WW2.
The boots worn by the US were as I've shown. Unlike in later years, that was all that was available. Paint formulas and availability of touch up paint post WW2 further hinder a comparison. Finally, the limited average life span of a tank from WW2 is different than post war era tanks. Whether it's the quality of photos from back then or not we don't see chipping to the extent we do on modeler's renderings.
My daily driver is a Jeep Wrangler with factory painted door sills. No plastic guards. 4 years later there are no signs of paint wear. My footwear is 100% workboots, treads, dirt, pebbles and all.
I'm not trying to dictate what modelers do. Just realize it's your interpretation and not necessarily historically accurate.



Yes, but your Jeep Wrangler has 3-4 coats of dipped primer and sprayed Acrylic Lacquer PPG paint with an overcoat or clear acrylic lacquer. No WWII vehicle had that. What they got was usually 1 coat of lead based primer paint, with a Camo coat. Not really a fair comparison. And really, how much difference in sole pattern is there between those WWII boots and issue boots of the 70s? My issue boots certainly didn’t have the copper rivets, they were nylon stitched. But my crew and I managed to do a considerable amount of wear on our Sheridan (see the vehicle in the photo posted earlier) now, granted, that’s not just from dirty boots, as I mentioned above, but dirty boots are a contributing factor. and as mentioned, wear is really a combination of time, action, paint quality, maintenance, and weather. These factors are really the primary ingredients in ”chipping” and weathering, and will vary as the conditions vary. Again, check references for accuracy when choosing levels of weathering. Don’t think of such things in “general terms”.
VR, Russ



All I'm saying is both boot configurations and paint quality have changed for the better since WW2. Paint is more durable and boots have drastically better traction. With that boot improvement comes the ability to retain pebbles and dirt. My Jeep reference is to show that paint used for strictly civilian use is holding up pretty darned well. Certainly CARC is even more durable than that. Despite that we just don't see evidence of American tanks with appreciable wear compared to that depicts on models.



I've seen CARC come off in palm size chunks. If you had a chipped area that started to rust it would cause the surrounding CARC to start to lift and it would flake. CARC wasn't very flexible and it didn't seem to bond to metal as well as primer. When we repaired a damaged area of CARC we had to sand and grind all the rust off and grind back the CARC to give us about an inch of fresh bare metal surrounding the damaged area. I've seen CARC painted over rust and it would flake right off, but sometimes we didn't have time to do all the prep work and had to cover up paint damage quick for another deployment or a dog and pony show.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 07:48 AM UTC
[/quote] All I'm saying is both boot configurations and paint quality have changed for the better since WW2. Paint is more durable and boots have drastically better traction. With that boot improvement comes the ability to retain pebbles and dirt. My Jeep reference is to show that paint used for strictly civilian use is holding up pretty darned well. Certainly CARC is even more durable than that. Despite that we just don't see evidence of American tanks with appreciable wear compared to that depicts on models.[/quote]

I won’t quibble that boots and paint have improved since WWII. I also won’t quibble that I’ve seen some “overdone” models at shows. But I have to state in 30 years of military service, working not only with the Army but also the Marines, Navy and a 3 year stint with the Air Force as a joint duty guy, I’ve seen a lot of modern “shabby” equipment. It does get worn out in use, sometimes down to bare metal. As I said, seeing equipment coming into, and going through a repair depot is a real eye opener. I’ve seen stripped, scratched, faded and stained CARC paint, chipped paint on bulldozers, tanks, HMMWVs, trucks, worn out non-combat equipment, busted, pitted, dented and stained Kevlar armor, and lots of other types of wear and tear— all products of continued age and heavy use. But on the other side of a Level IV Depot repair facility, it comes out looking like it was brand new. Model “weathering” (if you choose to depict it) needs to be seen as an element of “objective context” and not “subjective opinion”. I’ve seen judges at contests bypass a perfectly good weathering (and chipping) job as “overdone”, then award a ribbon to a tank that had rusted rubber track pads with a comment “gee.. that looks so realistic”. Yet they have no context for deciding such things. It has to be a mater of replicating realism at a specific point in time in the life of a vehicle. Something that just “looks good” may not be correct, either “realistically“ or “historically”. I’m well aware of the two schools of thought here— some say there should be no weathering at all, others think if it’s In action it should be beat to hell. I’m of the opinion that if there’s a crew in it and it’s in action, it should have some form of weathering, perhaps even “chipping”. If it’s brand new, off the assembly line, it’s acceptable to have little or no weathering. If it’s ready for turn in, salvage or destroyed, it should be well worn. The degree of skill an artist uses to replicate/depict these conditions is what should be judged. Does modern paint wear like WWII paint? It just depends on what the vehicle has gone through. Look at a modern D9R with CARC paint in Iraq, or a long-lived Sherman Dozer in Italy, or the Philippines in 1944– you’ll see lots of similarities both if they’ve been hard working, or if they’re brand new. But they must be placed in the “context” of “new, maintained, worn, or well worn”, and weathering should be based on some form of research, not haphazardly applied just because it looks “neat” and “artsy”. One other point here— as for CARC paint, it cannot be over-sprayed or repainted by the “user”. It can be “touched up” by the user, but that’s about it. Total repaints are, and must be done by law (due to environmental and health concerns) at Depot (Level IV Maintenance) level. So, until a CARC painted vehicle goes to back to Depot for rebuild at the end of its service life, it’s very common to see chips, and patchwork touch-ups in CARC paint.
VR, Russ
barnslayer
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 08:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text


All I'm saying is both boot configurations and paint quality have changed for the better since WW2. Paint is more durable and boots have drastically better traction. With that boot improvement comes the ability to retain pebbles and dirt. My Jeep reference is to show that paint used for strictly civilian use is holding up pretty darned well. Certainly CARC is even more durable than that. Despite that we just don't see evidence of American tanks with appreciable wear compared to that depicts on models.[/quote]

I won’t quibble that boots and paint have improved since WWII. I also won’t quibble that I’ve seen some “overdone” models at shows. But I have to state in 30 years of military service, working not only with the Army but also the Marines, Navy and a 3 year stint with the Air Force as a joint duty guy, I’ve seen a lot of modern “shabby” equipment. It does get worn out in use, sometimes down to bare metal. As I said, seeing equipment coming into, and going through a repair depot is a real eye opener. I’ve seen stripped, scratched, faded and stained CARC paint, chipped paint on bulldozers, tanks, HMMWVs, trucks, worn out non-combat equipment, busted, pitted, dented and stained Kevlar armor, and lots of other types of wear and tear— all products of continued age and heavy use. But on the other side of a Level IV Depot repair facility, it comes out looking like it was brand new. Model “weathering” (if you choose to depict it) needs to be seen as an element of “objective context” and not “subjective opinion”. I’ve seen judges at contests bypass a perfectly good weathering (and chipping) job as “overdone”, then award a ribbon to a tank that had rusted rubber track pads with a comment “gee.. that looks so realistic”. Yet they have no context for deciding such things. It has to be a mater of replicating realism at a specific point in time in the life of a vehicle. Something that just “looks good” may not be correct, either “realistically“ or “historically”. I’m well aware of the two schools of thought here— some say there should be no weathering at all, others think if it’s In action it should be beat to hell. I’m of the opinion that if there’s a crew in it and it’s in action, it should have some form of weathering, perhaps even “chipping”. If it’s brand new, off the assembly line, it’s acceptable to have little or no weathering. If it’s ready for turn in, salvage or destroyed, it should be well worn. The degree of skill an artist uses to replicate/depict these conditions is what should be judged. Does modern paint wear like WWII paint? It just depends on what the vehicle has gone through. Look at a modern D9R with CARC paint in Iraq, or a long-lived Sherman Dozer in Italy, or the Philippines in 1944– you’ll see lots of similarities both if they’ve been hard working, or if they’re brand new. But they must be placed in the “context” of “new, maintained, worn, or well worn”, and weathering should be based on some form of research, not haphazardly applied just because it looks “neat” and “artsy”. One other point here— as for CARC paint, it cannot be over-sprayed or repainted by the “user”. It can be “touched up” by the user, but that’s about it. Total repaints are, and must be done by law (due to environmental and health concerns) at Depot (Level IV Maintenance) level. So, until a CARC painted vehicle goes to back to Depot for rebuild at the end of its service life, it’s very common to see chips, and patchwork touch-ups in CARC paint.
VR, Russ [/quote]

I wasn't intending to quibble. I just wanted to point out technology has improved. My areas of interest are WW1 and WW2. Very different than anything since then in so many contributing factors.
Bravo36
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 08:39 AM UTC
Just adding my thoughts... I ran a platoon of M113A1 APCs in the early '70s. They were ALWAYS filthy! Covered in dust, dirt & mud. We did wind up with scrapes and chips. Of course since most of those boxes were aluminum, they didn't rust. But we did get some. And the drivers and mechanics did occasionally touch up the paint. Often with some slightly different shade of OD.

In any case, I personally love the inclusion of well-crafted chips on armor models. I see it as an artistic touch that adds to the 'heavy metal' look (always something we're trying to achieve on our little plastic kits.)
alanmac
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 08:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Here are two photos of PZIV's. One is fairly well knackered and the other relatively fresh. They show the extremes of paint damage and wear and tear.

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/tanks-2-3/panzer-iv/im-westen-panzer-iv-2-2/

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/tanks-2-3/panzer-iv/italien-panzer-iv-6/



Bear in mind the second image is a period, judging by the clothing, in Winter and it looks like maybe even a now faded winter whitewash applied on the tanks so due to its composition its bound to show greater wear and tear than the underlying paint finish. Plus the mud on the tracks would indicate what the ground was like, so highly likely a lot of the marks on the tank are mud/dirty based in origin rather than chips in the paintwork.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 09:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Here are two photos of PZIV's. One is fairly well knackered and the other relatively fresh. They show the extremes of paint damage and wear and tear.

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/tanks-2-3/panzer-iv/im-westen-panzer-iv-2-2/

https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/tanks-2-3/panzer-iv/italien-panzer-iv-6/



Bear in mind the second image is a period, judging by the clothing, in Winter and it looks like maybe even a now faded winter whitewash applied on the tanks so due to its composition its bound to show greater wear and tear than the underlying paint finish. Plus the mud on the tracks would indicate what the ground was like, so highly likely a lot of the marks on the tank are mud/dirty based in origin rather than chips in the paintwork.




So again, the photos above prove my point that weathering must be undertaken in the correct “context” a vehicle model represents. Not in some subjective opinion of what “realism” “should” look like in miniature. Of course, the best looking depiction (realistic depiction) should always trump a poor artistic depiction. In the case above, we have what appears to be a brand new (or newly repainted and refurbished) Mark IV compared to a well worn and used Mark IV. Ok, if we accept there are differences in these two vehicles conditions, we should be able to accept they can appear “new” or “well worn” on the modeling table or display case as well. In my IPMS region, when a model is placed on a contest table, those differentiations are clearly made in three blocks: 1) New; 2) Worn-Maintained 3) Well Worn. There really should be no room for anyone to mis-interpret that, “chipping” included, unless the model clearly does not represent what’s checked in the block. Can something be overdone to an extent that it’s not plausible? Of course (or “underdone” as well, as I’ve seen in many dioramas). But without the experience, training or knowledge base to make that determination, it can’t really be said “that it couldn’t happen, or didn’t happen that way”. In that case, subjective judgement is the only fall back. My point though is this, we cannot judge or comment on realism if we don’t have that expertise or knowledge from reference, in the absence of that, we can only use “subjective, artistic” interpretation. These two photos are pretty good references for “objective” differentiation though. By the way, given the second photo is from Italy, and the tank registration number shows through the “dirt” or “whitewash”, I’m not sure I’d bet on a “winter whitewash”, I’m not sure I’d bet the tank is not fairly new either— just “well worn” which does not always equate to “old”. Could be, but it might just be dirt.
VR, Russ
brekinapez
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 12:10 PM UTC
Based on the amount of mud on the tracks and the clumps of grass and crap across the glacis, I'm likely to go with dirt for the Italian photo.
DocEvan
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 02:19 PM UTC
indeed! Modeling is an impressionistic art.


Quoted Text

Sorry about the last un-nimble repeat. I was about to complement you on the observation. We often don't want to admit to the artistic side of our chosen hobby.

I admit that I appreciate the artistry.

the main thing is we all have fun in our chosen way

Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 04:58 PM UTC
If you are going to chip do it logically. Leading edges that might come in contact with something that may damage the paint, fenders, lower hull, light guards things like that. Areas where two pieces of metal might come in contact like the seam between two sheets of schurzen. Hinges. If you ever looked at heavy equipment you will see hinges often are banged up and chipped pretty heavily. They rust, get repainted and the paint comes off because of the movement. Bustle racks and exterior storage and tool bins. Those edges see a lot of stuff going in and out banging around. Places where crew place their feet climbing on and off. Edges of engine covers, lifting hooks and surrounding areas. Fueling ports because of all the banging around while fueling. Edges of hatches and grab handles. Tool brackets and the tools themselves. Edges of road wheels where rocks and dirt can damage the paint. Around nuts and bolts because tools will knock chips off. If you bend a fender paint can flake where the metal is bent. If you do a winter scene and whitewash, whitewash will rub of easily and chip but most likely only to the original hull color.

Don't go overboard, think logically and remember that most times Less is More.
cabasner
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 05:43 PM UTC
This thread is definitely relevant to one of the builds I have in progress, a 2003 M1A1 from the Baghdad Airport Thunder Run. I am replicating the build I did form the Ft. Stewart exhibit, which is the tank "Answer To This", which was the first tank in the armored column, and had a mine plow attached. I want to have this tank in my personal collection. I want back to look at the photos I took of the finished tank before I shipped it, and while I was happy with the detail of equipment and stowage placed on the model, and the plow also, I am embarrassed by how terrible (read: minimal and unrealistic) the actual weathering I disturbed out to be. Not nearly enough weathering, and the weathering I did was not detailed. With the new build, I plan to do a primer (grey Mig One Shot) and then use the Mission Model Cold Rolled Steel color all over as a base coat to be the 'color' which will show when I do chipping. This time, I have many detailed photos of real life wear and tear, including chipping, on a real life Abrams. It isn't "Answer To This", but I"m sure all such tanks have similar wear patterns. I plan to use the hairspray technique for chipping, which I did NOT do for the Ft. Stewart model, and to work very carefully to creat what Michael Rinaldi sometimes calls 'micro-chipping'. I hope that doing this, combined with some other techniques I've learned since that prior build, will result in a FAR MORE REALISTIC version of 'Answer To This'.
Removed by original poster on 05/01/20 - 06:02:13 (GMT).
Khouli
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 06:02 PM UTC

Quoted Text

This Panzer IV ausf G is well beat up.



But even from this, you can see that chipping is minimal. The weathering is mostly grime i'd say.

Chipping is most likely to occur around bolt heads in my experience.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2020 - 06:49 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

This Panzer IV ausf G is well beat up.



But even from this, you can see that chipping is minimal. The weathering is mostly grime i'd say.

Chipping is most likely to occur around bolt heads in my experience.



Maybe it was minimal at the time the photo was taken. Or maybe you can’t see it in the photo. Old B/W photos of dubious quality don’t really show angles or color tones enough to determine the amount of ”chipping”. In reality, chipping inevitably increases as time goes on until it’s arrested by repainting. Enough veterans have commented here, even about CARC paint, to verify that fact. I’ve forgotten to mention that I was on the original TECOM CARC evaluation team at DPG. We used 2 M1s as test subjects and proceeded to “wear them into the ground” with wear and decontamination testing. By the end of a three month test, those tanks were well chipped. One was destroyed in testing while the other was worn out, then sent for rebuild.
VR, Russ