Hi all,

Getting to the finishing point for my latest build and was looking to make a desert diorama, most probably with a small oasis. That’s led me to a large number of choices for modelling the water.

What are the pros and cons of the options? I’m likely intending to use expanded styrofoam with scultamold as a base and have read of potential issues with two part epoxies melting foam due to the heat generated.

I’ve not finalised the design yet but the pool is likely to be no larger than 10-15cm (4-5.5”). I’m guessing I probably won’t need much depth to achieve a (hopefully) realistic oasis, maybe 1.5cm (9/16”)?

I’ve looked at Vallejo still water and woodland Scenics realistic water, but any suggestions, tips etc appreciated.

I used Vallejo still water for my "On Thin Ice" dio. One thing to keep in mind is, that the base has to be ABSOLUTELY water proof and has no leaks... This cost me at least half a bottle!

Let me suggest something completely different that will solve your problems, look great, and cost pennies. Use glass or plexiglass. Cut the shape of your pond out of foam and lay it on your base. This will insure the banks of your pond are level all the way around. You can dig down farther into the base if you want more depth. Now comes the fun. Paint the bottom. Add junk if desired - ammo boxes, oil barrels, dead horses. (yes, I saw this in Iraq) lay glass or plexiglass over the surface. You can slightly tint the underside if you want. Build up the surrounded landscape over the “water” up to the banks. Done.

It looks great if done right. I did a Connelly Cup Competition diorama of a field mess that had to be near a source of fresh water. No dead horses, just a sunken boat and some underwater flora. That unit won a trip to Hawaii that year

Depends on how deep you want to make your "water". When I make water (for model ships) the water does not have to be deep. I model the water from Celluclay - waves, and such - then smooth the surface with a moist brush before it completely dries. Paint it whatever color you want the water to be. Then brush on several coats of liquid clear acrylic (no heat emmissions), letting each coat dry. The result should be a glassy surface with implied depth, but practice first.

Thanks for the replies. How did you go about sealing the base effectively Golikell? Awesome diorama by the way.

I never would have thought of that solution independently 18Bravo. Ingenious simplicity. Getting hold of cut glass might be a bit of a challenge at the moment under UK lockdown, but could probably source plexiglass easily enough and cut myself. I’m assuming you could either tint with clear paint for colour or even flat paint for a murkier look dependent on what looking to achieve?

Not come across celluclay before biggles, Will do a bit of research on it. Not sure on what depth I want yet as still mulling over plans. Guess it will partly depend on how much or little debris/rocks etc I end up putting on the bottom.

I have used future in the past and got great results.I have used the commercial resin stuff but it stinks so bad its not wife friendly to use in the house.The best thing with future is it is so easy and you can tint the stuff with food coloring if you are budget minded.

Interesting. How thick is the layer of Future you use? Or how much thickness is possible I suppose.

Whether you use Future or a liquid acrylic (very similar products) you never pour it in depth - it will never dry or harden. You have to brush it on in layers like coats of paint. So your water is never more than a millimeter, or two, in depth. If you do want depth you have to use smelly-curing resin!

Thanks. This was one with many "firsts": the water, the ice, the snow... It is base on a real pic from 1939.

I only came across the leaks when everywhere I put the dio, it was covered by the water product

I tried to seal it by using CA, but that was only partial succesfull. Later I got the advice to smear PVA to the area to be covered. Since this leaves a rubbey layer, that might do the trick. I tainted the water with Vallejo paint, later adding drops of a different colour into the freshly poured water to get the cloudy effect. The water dries up solid, but be patient and wait at least 24 hours for the previous (thin)layer to dry. And make sure your dio is absolutely level, specially if the water is supposed to be at the edge of it, like mine is.