Hey out there, anyone interested in seeing how the M9 ACE from TAKON goes together ?

Heck yes !!!!

Yep!

Yes indeed

I'm interested on the Build!

And now the work starts.

You get 3 choices on how you want the suspension to pose.
#1 Front lowered for Dozing or loading the front hopper.
#2 Front Neutral for travel.
#3 Vehicle tilted to the rear.
You have to choose as they aren't inter-changeable .
I have chosen to do it in #2 Neutral position.
Here's a Pic. of the bottom in the neutral position.


The Sprocket has a realy sloppy fit, I used a piece of tubing that would fit the shaft, and glued it to the inside of the sprocket.

Here's how it fits, this also allows the sprocket to be rotated to fit the track.

Now for some info. on the Wheels.
The outside Wheels are two part while the inner are one piece.

Here's the outside of the outer wheels, note the lip on the outer edge.

I left the Wheels on their Sprue to ease painting later.
I'll be doing some hull work next, The wheels will be painted later when there's more to paint.
Finished for now.
Donald

One of my favorite kits, I have two in the stash and two already built. Definitely following this one. I did the first one in the travel position, and the second in the working (nose down) position for a friend down at Camp Lejeune who was an M9 crewman. The Sabot book is an excellent reference source by the way.

It's easier to fill the push-pin marks on the floor insert of the carry area before installing it.

There are 4 large push-pin marks that will be quite visible instde the carry compartment that need filling.


The pusher to empty the carry box.

The seam on the air-cleaner doesn't really need to be filled.
I found out after doing some test fitting and found that out.
Finished for now.
Donald

Man the instructions really suck on this kit.
They aren't clear where B5 goes, Here is how it goes.

This above is the engine cover.
If you don't install C33 & C34 first before the small armor plates you'll never get them in.

Trim to fit as shown.

The hatch is hinged , but there's a solid plate under it.



I'll be working on installing the wheels and assembling the track next.
Finished for now.
Donald

Good info sir, as always.

I have the Wheels and Tracks finished and installed, Here's how.


The wheels have to be glued in place.



If you installed the piece of tubing inside the sprocket, it will stay in place and be movable.
The Track is supposed to be workable = It's not while you can snap it together mostly it will not stay that way.
I glued it together in a upper and lower sections as shown below.

After the glue set-up I glued on the pre-painted track pads.

To install the track I inserted the sprocket into its part of track then installed the sprocket .

Finally Installed the top sections and glued them in place.


When gluing it works best to glue one end, let it set up then do the other end.
Regards.
Donald

Lookin' good, Donald!

The painting isn't based on any Pics. I have it's just a little artistic licenes.

Hi, Thanks for trouble shooting the track assembly. Very helpful.

Finished for now.
Donald

There's a spot on the rear that the winch cable hooks on.

The pin on C6 needs to be shortened a little , otherwise the sides are at a angle.


Now for the Dozer Blade.

I'll install it next after painting.
Donald

Sorry - jumping in late here - as to the issue of loose drive sprockets; if the vehicle interior will allow, I will drill out the sprocket axle holes in the chassis tub and run that piece of plastic rod all the way across the vehicle for even more support for the sprockets. (Especially on Shermans! I wish I could do the same for the Sherman rear idlers but alas no.)