hello
my english is a little bad so...
what's Washing & Drybrushing Armor, can someone explain it to me ?

Wash - The action of taking a thin mixture of paint and literally "washing" it over the model so the dark pigment will fill all the nooks and crannies. Personally, I use isopropyl alcohol tinted lightly with black india ink. This is used to thin acrylic paint into a thin soupy mix which is liberally spread over the model. When it dries (it dries quickly due to the alcohol) I then-

Dry Brush - just like the expression the goal is to add pigment a little bit at a time until the desired effect is had. You take a flat bristle brush, dip in paint and then remove as much of the paint to leave just enough to add light color to the model.

Try it on some scrap before you newest treasure. Do not like the effect - paint it over and try again. Its more of an art rather than a science. Practice will make you better.

REMEMBER ONE THING - LESS IS MORE - Too much paint (dry brush) does not make it better.

but the wash if after you paint the model?
dry brushing i need more terms..
sorry, i'm sounding like 5 year old boy

Yes the wash is over the painted model ..as for dry brushing it is usually done with the base color paint with a lighter color added to it ..then as GSP said you take a flat paint brush ..dip it in the paint ..then use a dry cloth and wipe off most of the paint ....when you brush the paint onto the model you should not see any streaking on the painted surfaces but just on the high points on the model ..like on handles or hinges to make them stand out more ...I hardly ever use the dry brushing anymore but there are still times when this technique can come in handy... I hope this helps a bit more.

Rick

Hi Marius, If you go to the Painting and Airbrush section, the first post is a sticky that has info there, that may help also. Welcome to Armorama!!!!!

about the drybrush.... to get the lighter color, i mix white color ? or buy a lighter color ?
the washing serves what purpose ?

Most folks use white and it brings out the highlights. The raised parts of a vehicle such as ..welds, rivets and any demarcation lines.

Don'T use white for drybrushing. Just mix base colour with white. Happy modelling.

ok drybrush is cleared
and about the washing ?

Depends on what color you are drybrushing ..When i drybrush with green colors I use a sandy color to lighten the color because white has a way of greying the green colors.
As for washes I use burnt Umber ..Raw umber and black for most of my washes ...all depends on the orginal color of the vehicle.

Rick

If you get some water, or some alcohol and put only a few drips of paint into it you make a very thin 'paint' 95% water and only 5% paint or even less paint :-)
When you dip a large soft brush into it and brush the coloured water onto your painted model the water will collect in all the panel lines, and around the hinges. When the water or alcohol dries it will leave the paint behind, in places that you just can't brush
If you get a really tiny brush, and dip it in the water, then touch it to the panel lines, the water will flow into the panel line, taking the paint with it - then you will have shading in all the gaps.
If you have some old models try it on them, experiment with different amounts of paint, and different brushes. I often wash over all of the model with a large brush, and a muddy brown colour, and when that has dried I use another wash of Dark grey or black and a tiny brush to fill up the panel lines and hatches.
Hope this helps

i'm finishing painting a tiger I (italeri), the color is flat tan, i'm gonna try diluted black paint like you said... and check the results.



i'm such a newb in this, sorry for being so boring with you guyz but..... umber ? what's that ? (i feel so stupid)
muddy brown colour...... what's the humbrol #nr for that ? or u don't use humbrol?

The easiest paint to use for your experiments is acrylic - it's water based and will mix easily.
I like Tamiya or Humbrol Acrylics which I dilute with ordinary tap water. Go to your local model shop and ask about which acrylics they have an buy a pot or two.
Try either Humbrol number 29, matt dark earth, or the similar colour in Tamiya is XF-52 which they call flat earth.
Tamiya panzer grey is number XF-63. Sorry I don't know any other maker's references, but that should give you something to start with.
I don't use Humbrol Enamel paints to wash with as they won't dilute with plain water, and the thinner needed could take all the paint off while you are washing.
By all means try artists oil paints, many people love them, but it does take a lot of practice.
Don't worry about asking questions - how do you think we learned ..?

ill try those two from tamiya, thank a lot.
but it's ok to use them on a humbrol enamel paint ? like i said, it's gonna have a flat tan.
what base color u sugest for my tiger ?

Geesse I have never gotten any good results with acrylic washes ...I use enamels (humbrol ) or oil paints for washes . you have much better results . As for the raw umber and burnt umber colors ...these are artist oil colors that come in tubes ...I use lighter fluid as a thinner for my washes ..it drys fast and makes the oil paints flat. I do love arcylics for my base coats but that is where I stop using them...

Rick

You should leave the humbrol enamel to dry for at least a week. Once it's dry it will be safe with water based acrylics for your first tests. If you have used matt paint the wash will not flow so well. A lot of modellers put a coat of clear acrylic gloss varnish over the basecoat and once that has dried, then do washes and dry brushing.
I don't know if you can get it in your area but Future acrylic floor varnish is good to try, it's easy to brush, and can also be air brushed if you have one. Another name for Future is Kleer in the UK. Try loking in the supermarket in the cleaning materials aisle and see what ou can find.

Geesse I have never gotten any good results with acrylic washes ...I use enamels (humbrol ) or oil paints for washes

so what numbers ? and.... but the tinner don't screw the paint job ?
i will try with the acrylic ones, i think, or i can do both
find that in my country ? i really doubt it LOl IM IN PORTUGAL hello lol (joking) but it's true it's gonna be very hard to find that here.
u didn't answer my question about the base color... i use to see in this site cool tank's with some kind of yellow. that looks nice

I use tamiya or Gunze colors for the base color ...What model are you building ? If it is german well I use a mix of XF59 and XF 60 with some white added to it as a base. I will first start with a dark red brown color for my pre shading though.this is the effect I got from that ..

You can see the effect of the dark washes in the corners too..
hope this helps.

Rick

i'm building a tiger I drom italeri, that paint scheme of yours is prety cool, i think i will do it more or less like that.. but i will not use the red color
next month i'm gonna buy my small compressor to paint stuff again with my airbrush....
but this thank is gonna be old school
you all are giving great help.. and Bear, that tank is awesome, u got more pic's ?

If you want to see so of my latest here is the address..
http://www.nutsnbits.com/rcraig/

Rick

great work u r doing
hope i can reach your level

Hey it is just practice... been doing this for almost 30 yrs now...
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

Rick

i just bought tamiya desert yellow and dark yellow for mix, to do the base color. u think i should only use it? or a cammo ?

Which model are you building ? Depends on what ,where and when you are building your kit. Let me know and I'll help you out as much as possible.

Rick