Hosted by Darren Baker
Factory ruin - the "hansa" way!
Mech-Maniac
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Monday, October 11, 2004 - 02:42 AM UTC
wow, thats really something you've got there! must have taken a lot of patience! cant wait to see it all finished
KFMagee
Texas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 04:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
...wow, thats really something you've got there! must have taken a lot of patience! ...
Total time invested up to that point was about 30 hours of building - 10 for the bricks.
A-Train
Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 04:37 AM UTC
Really nice i mean Really!
slodder
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 04:41 AM UTC
Glad you posted the 'inventory' of items you used.
I have been contemplating getting some of this..... I like the fact that I now have something to compare the outcome of a certain quantity of items.
I have been contemplating getting some of this..... I like the fact that I now have something to compare the outcome of a certain quantity of items.
KFMagee
Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, October 14, 2004 - 03:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Glad you posted the 'inventory' of items you used.
I have been contemplating getting some of this..... I like the fact that I now have something to compare the outcome of a certain quantity of items.
I find that it is pretty darn equitable... if nothing else, compare a bag of 1,000 bricks for $10 to the price of verlinden or custom diorama bricks, which have about 250 bricks for $7.00.
Second, you can use the product to augment other mediums... for example -if you want to build a piece from Plaster instead of the cinderblock, and then white glue bricks in place, it still looks great... i have even glued the cobblestone pieces onto cardboard to great effect in creating a roadway.
While I still use balsa foam to create my master forms, when it comes to a more "3D" layout, Hansa is quite economical.
Posted: Thursday, October 14, 2004 - 04:13 AM UTC
Keith
That building looks pretty go on with that.
I have a question about the Hansa Bricks.
What are they made of. Is it plaster or plastic... Or something else. Are they easy to damage?
I also have a question. I examined the pics in your gallery and I saw something on the bricks in your building.
Looking at this pic:
I notice that in the gap (not the small one but the big one) just behind the workbench you see the thingys (haven`t got another name for it) still on the bricks. Is this usual on normal bricks or is that something you should remove from the Hansa Bricks?
Really a wonderfull piece can`t wait to see the finished dio
That building looks pretty go on with that.
I have a question about the Hansa Bricks.
What are they made of. Is it plaster or plastic... Or something else. Are they easy to damage?
I also have a question. I examined the pics in your gallery and I saw something on the bricks in your building.
Looking at this pic:
I notice that in the gap (not the small one but the big one) just behind the workbench you see the thingys (haven`t got another name for it) still on the bricks. Is this usual on normal bricks or is that something you should remove from the Hansa Bricks?
Really a wonderfull piece can`t wait to see the finished dio
KFMagee
Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 06:17 PM UTC
Quoted Text
.... I notice that in the gap (not the small one but the big one) just behind the workbench you see the thingys (haven`t got another name for it) still on the bricks. Is this usual on normal bricks or is that something you should remove from the Hansa Bricks?
Faust - yes, those are the alignment "bumps" on the hansa bricks. i didn't bother to remove them, because the finished diorama is a heavy snow scene, and they will be totally covered. Kinda like shep Payne said in his book - "if it isn't gonna show, don't worry about it"... but sharp eye Faust!
As for the bricks question, the Hansa line is made of shaded polystryrene... just like a model tank or figure from Tamiya. As such, they are easy to damage and mar, if you want. I use regular Model Master liquid glue (or Tenax, or Tamiya... doesn't matter really, as long as it is liquid glue). The really WONDERFUL thing about the hansa bricks is they are cast in a number of shades of brick, from dark brown to light red. The color of the bricks you see in the photo are NOT painted at all... Every bag of 1000 bricks has an assortment of about 4-5 shades of bricks in the bag. Just grab the next one that is handy, and put it in place - you will get a WONDERFUL and far more realistic effect than you would using the plaster bricks from Verlinden, Custom Dioramaics, or any of the others on the market... they actually require no paint, and even have the "correct" indentions on the top and bottom of the brick, just like the ones used to build your own house! I can't say enough about them. Many orders through my website are just for bricks alone, that people buy for the purpose of making debris. Far cheaper per 100 bricks than anything on the market, and far more accurate and realistic.
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 06:49 PM UTC
Marvelous job Keith! that's sure big..
So that's Hansa system. I've read somewhere about hansa system but couldnt recall my memory. So is there any help or article on how to use hansa system?
Man, i know if i want to use hansa system, then i have to do mailorder...u guys are LUCKY!!!
BTW, when ur article is published, can u tell us the magazine's name??
So that's Hansa system. I've read somewhere about hansa system but couldnt recall my memory. So is there any help or article on how to use hansa system?
Man, i know if i want to use hansa system, then i have to do mailorder...u guys are LUCKY!!!
BTW, when ur article is published, can u tell us the magazine's name??
Major_Goose
Kikladhes, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 06:54 PM UTC
Well some more questioning on this nice material of Hansa. Since theyre nice colour shaded u wont need to paint. ok, but isnt there the plastike shine that wont let weathering, or pastels grab on the bricks?. i mean everything we leave unpainted in dios looks different for the rest . Dont they have the same problem ?.
Have u ever estimated the average number of bricks that are used to make a square inch of wall so one can estimate the number of bricks to make his own custom dimensioned wall ?
Thanks
Costas
Have u ever estimated the average number of bricks that are used to make a square inch of wall so one can estimate the number of bricks to make his own custom dimensioned wall ?
Thanks
Costas
KFMagee
Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 06:57 PM UTC
Quoted Text
..... So is there any help or article on how to use hansa system?
BTW, when ur article is published, can u tell us the magazine's name??
First, i am working the owner of Hansa on a "how to" article just as you describe.
Second... EVERYONE must do hansa through mail order... i have never seen it in a store.
Third, if you ARE going to order Hansa, I humbly request you consider ordering through my website, by clicking of the logo link below!
Fourth - when the article is published, I certainly will notify the board of the issue and the publisher. i am told it will be coming out in a January timeframe (February issue)... but these things change.
KFMagee
Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 07:07 PM UTC
Quoted Text
.... Since theyre nice colour shaded u wont need to paint. ok, but isnt there the plastike shine that wont let weathering, or pastels grab on the bricks?. .... ?.
Have u ever estimated the average number of bricks that are used to make a square inch of wall so one can estimate the number of bricks to make his own custom dimensioned wall ?
Costas - a bag of bricks does about a 6" x 6" wall section - about 36 square inches.
As for the surface... all I ever do is wash the surface of the bricks with alcohol before I begin glueing them together. Then, I create a thinned wash of plaster of paris and water, and smear that onto the bricks... this fills the cracks between the brick joints, and gives you the VERY realistic effect of grout or cement between the bricks. Wipe off the surface excess, and now it is truly the most realistic thing you will ever see.
They have a fairly "flat" finish to begin with, but if you want a more rough finish, then after you have assembled them, spray the piece with Model Master #1960 (or equivilent) spray flat finish.
As for pastel powders - they apply quite well.
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 07:15 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text..... So is there any help or article on how to use hansa system?
BTW, when ur article is published, can u tell us the magazine's name??
First, i am working the owner of Hansa on a "how to" article just as you describe.
Second... EVERYONE must do hansa through mail order... i have never seen it in a store.
Third, if you ARE going to order Hansa, I humbly request you consider ordering through my website, by clicking of the logo link below!
Fourth - when the article is published, I certainly will notify the board of the issue and the publisher. i am told it will be coming out in a January timeframe (February issue)... but these things change.
hi again keith...that was fast reply
and thanks for your good reply. looking forward for the how-to article. so hansa is available only via mailorder... after reading this thread, i started to think about mailorder again even though i've promised my self not to order from the US and promised wife no more buying this year!!
Major_Goose
Kikladhes, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 08:36 PM UTC
Thanks a lot Keith for that . when i have a "brath" i ll order some of these.
CostaS
CostaS
Graywolf
Senior Editor
Izmir, Turkey / Türkçe
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Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 08:54 PM UTC
thats incredibly good.congrats Keith. i wish we will have a chance to read the article when it is done.
KFMagee
Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, October 18, 2004 - 08:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
......even though i've promised my self not to order from the US .....
Ok - so now I have to ask about this statement... what is the rationale - pricing, distance, or "other"?
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
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Posted: Monday, October 18, 2004 - 12:16 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text......even though i've promised my self not to order from the US .....
Ok - so now I have to ask about this statement... what is the rationale - pricing, distance, or "other"?
i figured u might ask this...
not to offend anybody...
base on my previous experience, shipping something from the US to Malaysia was a lot more expensive. sometimes they cost more than 40% than the item that i purchased. Now i really careful when ordering something. i have to make sure the shipping cost is reasonable enough. our RM is smaller than USD....
...my 2 cents
KFMagee
Texas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 11:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted Text......even though i've promised my self not to order from the US .....
Ok - so now I have to ask about this statement... what is the rationale - pricing, distance, or "other"?
i figured u might ask this...
not to offend anybody...
base on my previous experience, shipping something from the US to Malaysia was a lot more expensive. sometimes they cost more than 40% than the item that i purchased. Now i really careful when ordering something. i have to make sure the shipping cost is reasonable enough. our RM is smaller than USD....
...my 2 cents
Absolutely no offense taken at all... sometimes the same thing happens when I order from Europe (UK and Germany)... i understand fully. But - IF i want something, and it only comes from abroad - I just break out the ol' wallet and say to heck with it!