I attempted putting a wash on my M3A1 last night and right now am at a loss for what happened. To give a blow by blow:

1. Sprayed on two coats of MM O/D acrylic. Nice flat, even finish.
2. Applied Future to decal areas, let dry for a day, applied decals, then let dry for another day.
3. Mixed a small amount of Academy oil artist's paint with Turpenoid and applied to entire tank. I blotted up any puddles with Q-tips (bad move because of the small cotton fibers left behind).
4. Checked today, 24 hours later, and found the finish very blotchy and uneven, but even worse, still very tacky.

So, what did I do wrong? Or does the turpenoid take more than 24 hours to dry and I'm just jumping the gun?

Thanks for any help guys. Man, this is getting frustrating.

Cary,

Welcome to the site. I have done the exact same thing, step by step, as you did a number of times. I think you just need to give the Turps a little bit more time to dry. If your fall weather in Mass. is anything like ours is now in Indiana, damp and cold, it may take more than a day to dry. I also quit using Turpeniod and use mineral spirits or odorless paint thinner now. I seem to get better results with those.
Anyway, give it a while and I think you may be okay.

Shaun

Hey Cary, I also do the same as Shaun and youself. As for the cotton fibers left behind, try using a dry brush to soak up any paints. I also use a Q-tip dampened with mineral spirits. Then just keep wipeing the brush on the rag as you move along.

Cary:

I have to echo what Shaun said. Ditch the Turpenoid. I used to do all my oil washes with Turpentine and like you ended up with a sticky mess. It did eventually dry, but left somewhat of a shiny finish. Sure it could be dulled down after, but I just didn't like the gummy/sticky application.

I now use Testor's paint thinner with my oils and am much happier with the results I'm getting. Quicker dry time, flatter finish, no stickiness.

Give it a shot and I'm sure you'll be pleased with your results.

Take care,

John

Despite the article in FSM, don't cover the whole model with a wash then remove the excess. This is an invitation to disaster. Apply the wash where you want shadows, at the base of raised detail and in panel lines. Let capilary action draw the thin liquid along. You can apply additonal amounts if the first is too light. Doing this will also allow you to use an oil wash over enamel since you are never dragging the brush but rather gently dabbing it with a small amount. Even if the same solvent is used, you can't lift the base.

I agree with Al!! I tried this 'cover the model in the wash' once, and thank god it was on an old model to try it!! It leaves a mess all over. Just add small amounts where you need it.

Henk

Thanks for the help guys. It is cool and damp here right now and I can see how that would play a part in the drying time. The next time though I'll be using something other than Turpenoid.

Cary,
Did you use turpenoid, or a product called "turpenoid natural"? The turpenoid natural is a totally different product, and unfortunately it will not dry. I made this mistake on one my models I use to try new techniques on over a year and a half ago, and it is still tackey to the touch. I usually use straight turpentine for oil washes, and when I use enamel washes, Testors brush cleaner, because it is not as "hot" as some other thinners.

Good luck,
Mike

Hi Cary,

I use all over washes and have not had a blotching problem. However, I apply a gloss coat over the entire model first. I have read (but not actually experienced) that a flat coat can lead to a blotchy effect with washes. I will also echo the above comments that odorless paint thinner works well and usually dries overnight, even in Houston's very humid climate.

Keith

As Kelley said, look to the type of turpenoid you used. If it is "natural turpenoid," ditch it now. That model may never dry. The stuff you want is just called turpenoid. Or mineral spirits work just as well with oils. In fact, I'm not really sure what the difference is between turpenoid or mineral spirits. I just know they are very different from natural turpenoid or turpentine.

I've tried it on both flat and gloss finishes, and the flat finish will just draw the wash all over the model. This may desireable for creating filters, but it definitely not the way to go for panel or recess washes. Coat the entire model in several light coats of Future, let dry, and then the wash will be pulled into the lower areas as desired. The gloss is very important, as is diluting the wash sufficiently. Diluting really cuts down on the uneven result of splotchy washes.

Hope this helps. It took me a few times until I found what I was comfortable with.

Stephen

I did use the Turpenoid Natural, but it did dry quite a bit overnight. The blotchiness seems to have went away somewhat. I did the total wash as I wanted to darken the original color of the MM O/D that I had used. It did darken it a bit, but I got hardly any effect around rivets, hatch lines, etc.

Now if it does happen to dry completely, could I then give it a couple of coats of Future and try again? And if it doesn't dry, would mineral spirts remove it so that I could start over?

I second what Stephen said ..Make sure the model has an even coat of future on it ..then I do a "spot" wash..put it where I want it. When dry I then give it a dull coat finish and move on to weathering.