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how to fit aftermarket wheels
Easy_Co
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 09:54 AM UTC
Hi guys I need help, Im building a M8 armoured car and Ive purchased some Verlinden wheels with snow chains.Now Ive never used after market before and to my distress No instructions. This is my problem, unlike the kit wheels these are moulded in one piece the kit axles do not fit, do I remove the axle stubs and glue the wheel directly to the main axle assembly or is there another way. Can any body help I would be extremely grateful.
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 01:42 PM UTC
Got the wheels, and waiting for the kit..... (guess we'll be building the same kit), but imagine, sight unseen, that probably a little drilling of the wheels, (not all the way through) and a little shortening of the axles would be the order of the day.
thenoblehaus
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 03:08 PM UTC
If the holes are to big you can sleve them with alm. or plastic tubing. If to small I would go with drilling them out be carful not to go through the hub.
Blade48mrd
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 03:43 PM UTC
Easy_Co, Grumpyoldman -

I've got the Tamiya M8 kit and the Verlinden tires/w chains also (small world, about 1/35th?). Anyway, the Tamiya instructions Part 8 shows how the kit wheels go together and if you use part #A 26 to glue to the back of the Verlinden wheels, you can then put the little "poly caps" in part #A 26 (not glued) and then glue part #A 25 to #A26 and they will fit on stock axle. Part #A 26 needs some care as it doesn't line up "perfectly" so test fit it in wheel first. Hope this helps.

Blade48mrd
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 04:04 PM UTC
Thanks.... I'm waiting for the Tamyia kit..... so will be better able to understand when kit is in hand..... Just ordered it today, and yes, I even broke the cardinal rule of not buying aftermarket, and sprung for the verlinden interior set......... but not the engine set.... not going that far......
Now everyone can tell me what wrong with it....... :-) :-) :-) :-)
Of course to get the free shipping......
:-) :-) :-) :-) I also order the Andy clamp (or happy hands or what ever the he*l they called it)..... and a few other unneeded items.........
Blade48mrd
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 04:31 PM UTC
Grumpyoldman -

Sounds like a plan you've got going. You'll be very pleased with the kit overall, though I thought the crew commander figure was kind of weak, but not bad. Also only one figure, so it was back to Jaguar, Nemrod, Warriors, Verlinden sources to get better figures. You might want to look at the "M8 Markings" thread in Armor as there is some great info from 210Cav. The link from M1garand is great for info, markings, and paint schemes. Here it is:

http://www.geocities.com/dimarcola/colorsandmark.htm

Good luck and hope to hear more,

Blade48mrd
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 06:07 PM UTC
http://www.geocities.com/dimarcola/colorsandmark.htm
Thanks for the link
Easy_Co
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 08:12 PM UTC
Thanks for the replys guys I was wondering about gluing the rear parts of the Tamyia wheel to the verlinden wheel only thing that bothers me is this will thicken the wheel making it stand out further than it should,I might give it a try because I dont fancy drilling the wheel.Dave I have a article in a military modelling by Steve Zaloga called guilding the greyhound he uses the verlinden interior and the Aber set he says the basic Tamyia kit is excellent and makes up into a good kit without any aftermarket.he says the Verlinden set is good but its etched brass is a bit clumsy it includes a radio which he says is correct the m8 carries two you will have to build a shelve on the oppersite sponson doesnt look to difficult.the set includes an excellent .50cal.The Aber set includes decals for the interior one is for the turret ring and is marked left and right and is numbered I imagine its for aiming the turret he says the decal broke up when he tried to apply it (if he couldnt do it Im not going there) he also added Verlindens stowage kit The model is superb but the amount of money he spent oh to be a pro.
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 09:20 PM UTC
Thanks for the info John
Easy_Co
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Posted: Friday, November 12, 2004 - 04:17 AM UTC
I tried a dry run like blade suggested and put a assembled Tamyia wheel on the next axle,the Verlinden wheel stood out about a third of a tyre width more,but as I havent fitted the mudguards yet its still inconclusive. I sent a email to verlinden asking how to fit em wont hold my breath waiting for a reply :-)
ex-royal
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Posted: Friday, November 12, 2004 - 04:38 AM UTC
Just out of curiosity gents as I dont have either of the kits. Aren't the Verliden wheels designed to be a complete replacement part? As there is no other M8 (injection) on the market wouldnt they just be direct replacement parts? Just curious. Or if someone could take a pic of the back of the wheel it might be easier to figure out.
Cheers,
Bryan
Easy_Co
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Posted: Friday, November 12, 2004 - 08:12 AM UTC
Ive taken two photo's one is the Verlinden wheel the other is the Tamyia wheel and its components. Its hard to tell bye the photo but the stup axle that goes into the poly cap is to thick and to long to fit the verlinden wheel.

ex-royal
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Posted: Friday, November 12, 2004 - 08:15 AM UTC
It looks to me that the Verlinden item is actually a copy of the assembled Tamiya wheel. You should just be able to attatch it to the axle as you would the Tamiya wheel.
Cheers,
Bryan
Easy_Co
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Posted: Friday, November 12, 2004 - 09:50 PM UTC
Bryan,It looks like the wheel should fit that way but the Tamyia axle stub is far to thick and long the wheel just balances on the top
Blade48mrd
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Posted: Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 05:16 AM UTC
John -

These are the parts that I have and used from my Tamiya M8 kit. From your picture of the Tamiya parts, the two farthest on right (tire and inner rim) go away and in essence are replaced by the Verlinden "tire with chains". The depth doesn't match up the same way exactly, but that is what we've got. Next, take the Tamiya part third from left (middle piece which I believe is A26) and it gets glued to the back of the Verlinden tire so it can accept the black "poly cap" (second from left in picture) like directions show. Be careful to center A26 as the tiny ridges on inside of the Verlinden tire don't match up exactly to the Tamiya part (test fit and I think you'll see what I mean). Next the black "poly cap" goes into A26 (DON'T Glue) and again be careful to center it. Finally Tamiya part A25 (first piece on left in your picture) is glued to top portion of A26 to hold the "poly cap" in place. Be careful not to get glue inside A26 and on "poly cap". Part A26 gives the depth for the axle to go into the "poly cap" and accept/hold the axle stub, just like if you'd used the original Tamiya parts. Drawback is that these parts make tire a little less "accurate" if you look at back of wheel (Verlinden set up makes this stick out more than the recessed set up of Tamiya's) since these really don't represent the brake drums, etc. very well. I hope this isn't too confusing and helps. Those Verlinden tires w/chains look great and definitely are a more accurate look for the operational set up of M8. Good luck and let us know how it goes,

Blade48mrd
Easy_Co
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Posted: Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 07:09 AM UTC
Blade, Thanks for your help on this,I had decided to go down that route when you first suggested it I didnt fancy drilling the wheel or chopping the axle.This is the first after market Ive ever tried must admit If their all so hit and miss as this one I will stick to OOB,or is this just a reflection on my modelling skills :-) any way thanks for all your help,I will keep you posted on the build.
Blade48mrd
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Posted: Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 07:31 AM UTC
Easy_Co, Ex_Royal -

My pleasure and after all that's what this is all about. Glad to help if even just a little. I hear you're situation on OOB vs all those goodies and I'm just venturing there myself. Next test is the "individual link tracks" set for my Panther G for "Ardennes" Campaign. I actually have two sets, Tamiya's and Model Kasten's. We'll see how it goes. Good luck, enjoy, and we'll keep posted,

Blade48mrd
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Sunday, November 21, 2004 - 08:19 AM UTC
OK, the kit and interior set has finally arrived, and started building Friday night. The Verlinden wheels are a resin repop of the Tamiya wheels with chains added,, but unfortunately, they were assembled before casting, thus making the attachment of the Tamyia rear parts impossible without sticking the wheels out WAY TOO FAR, as John has already pointed out. I still think you will need to shorten the axle, and drill the hole a little deeper, to use.

As for the interior set, why does Tamyia put the radio setup on the opposite side than the Verlinden set? If there was two sets of radios, am I'm pretty sure there was, it means that the one ammo rack that Verlinden gives you for the driver side sponson needs to be replaced with another radio set up, and installing the Tamyia radio set up, per the Tamyia instructions, and adding an additional ammo rack under the Tamyia radio, and this will need to be copied from the Verlinden ammo rack that goes under their radio set. I guess the installation of the two radios, cut down the ammo storage, and thus the need for the "optional" ammo rack behind the drivers seat.

I'm considering just using the Tamyia wheels, since they are really nice, and simply adding my own tire chains. I'll probably keep the Verlinden ones to slap on the Italeri M-20, sitting in the closet.

As for interior colors.... I believe the interior of the drivers section was white, but the rear section under the open top was Olive Drab...... including the turret..... is that correct?
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