Ok,
I just received the m3 stuart.
First think I would like to ask, does anyone know if theres a scan of the manual? cause the one I have is in Japanese only.
Now, to the fun part. As you can see, this is the first kit im going to build, which part(s) should begin first (perfer the easiest route)?
Hosted by Darren Baker
starting on the m3 stuart
Fuhrer
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Saturday, November 27, 2004 - 11:48 AM UTC
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
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Posted: Saturday, November 27, 2004 - 05:00 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I just received the m3 stuart.
Which one? Tamiya or Academy? If Academy, which one? The M3, Honey or M3A1?
Quoted Text
First think I would like to ask, does anyone know if theres a scan of the manual? cause the one I have is in Japanese only.
Are you talking about the manual for the actual vehicle or the instructions for the kit?
Quoted Text
Now, to the fun part. As you can see, this is the first kit im going to build, which part(s) should begin first (perfer the easiest route)?
As most of the instruction sets I have seen for either Stuart kit are pretty straightforward, I would follow them as presented. Remove parts from the sprues only when you need them and clean them up as you go along. For the Stuart, I would assemble everything beofre painting except the tracks. Leave them off as you paint everything (including the tracks) and then assembe them onto the suspension.
HTH
Paul
wolfpack6
Joined: August 07, 2004
KitMaker: 179 posts
Armorama: 54 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 27, 2004 - 10:46 PM UTC
I have the instruction sheet to the Tamiya Kit.
Fuhrer
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Sunday, November 28, 2004 - 04:38 AM UTC
I was reffering to the instruction kit for the tamiya m3 stuart.
Also, you metion "clean them up as you go along", what you mean by that?
Also, you metion "clean them up as you go along", what you mean by that?
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
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Posted: Monday, November 29, 2004 - 05:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I was reffering to the instruction kit for the tamiya m3 stuart.
Ahh, a kit near and dear to my heart. I've built 10 or 11 of them in my time. Know it like the back of my hand.
Quoted Text
also, you metion "clean them up as you go along", what you mean by that?
When you remove parts from the sprue you need to remove any little nubs of plastic remaining where it was attached. You also need to remove the small seams that are on many parts where the two halves of the mould come to gether, called the Mould Seam. You use files, sandpaper or hobby knife blades to remove these small bits of excess plastic, thereby "cleaning them up". You don't want to omit this stage as many of the part need to be free of burrs and extra material to fit properly. It takes a little time (and it the part of building I hate most) but it saves a lot of time and cursing later when parts fit properly the first time you attempt to fit them together.
Feel free to ask any questions as you proceed with your kit.
Paul
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Monday, November 29, 2004 - 02:39 PM UTC
Good, solid kit. You will have fun with it. As far as accuracy, the new Academy M3 and M3A1 have surpassed it, but the 30 year old Tamiya kit is still a respectable model. I would advise against getting a lot of aftermarket to accurize it. The cost of a set of tracks and some PE would put it beyond the price of a better Academy kit.
If you enjoy the Stuart series, I highly recommend AFV Club's recent M3A3 Stuart light tank. Great kit, I've seen Tuna's built and had to go out an grab one myself.
If you enjoy the Stuart series, I highly recommend AFV Club's recent M3A3 Stuart light tank. Great kit, I've seen Tuna's built and had to go out an grab one myself.
Fuhrer
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Monday, November 29, 2004 - 04:17 PM UTC
ok.. I just finished brushing the top shell olive drab, and its looks horrible!!! | 
The paint on various part of the model is clumpy and some part of the model its smooth.. Is there something I could so that the pain would look a little more smooth.
Also, how do I remove the paint off my model without damaging it?
The paint on various part of the model is clumpy and some part of the model its smooth.. Is there something I could so that the pain would look a little more smooth.
Also, how do I remove the paint off my model without damaging it?
Slug
Joined: September 02, 2004
KitMaker: 705 posts
Armorama: 505 posts
Posted: Monday, November 29, 2004 - 08:55 PM UTC
Hi Fuhrer:
One method to remove the old paint is to use "Polly S easy-lift-off" , this stuff works quite well. After you get the plastic cleaned up, you may want to prime it with a spray primer, this will help your brushed on paint go on alittle smoother. Also you may want to thin down your paint this helps hide brush strokes, 2 or 3 thin coats is much better than 1 thick "blobby" coat.
Take your time use a large brush for large areas. You may want to get yourself a airbrush, it really puts fun in painting as well as does a superior job.
hope this helps
have fun
Slug
One method to remove the old paint is to use "Polly S easy-lift-off" , this stuff works quite well. After you get the plastic cleaned up, you may want to prime it with a spray primer, this will help your brushed on paint go on alittle smoother. Also you may want to thin down your paint this helps hide brush strokes, 2 or 3 thin coats is much better than 1 thick "blobby" coat.
Take your time use a large brush for large areas. You may want to get yourself a airbrush, it really puts fun in painting as well as does a superior job.
hope this helps
have fun
Slug
Fuhrer
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 01:41 AM UTC
is "Polly S easy-lift-off" my only option? or i could use some alternative substance that could be found at any hardware store.
Also, is it because my paint is "enamel" thats why the coat seems to thick?
I tryed using thinner coats, however, I realized that the paint drys up very very quickly, that is why the paint seem to be lumppy once I try to cover up some spots I pay have missed..
Also, is it because my paint is "enamel" thats why the coat seems to thick?
I tryed using thinner coats, however, I realized that the paint drys up very very quickly, that is why the paint seem to be lumppy once I try to cover up some spots I pay have missed..
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 03:14 AM UTC
Easy-off oven cleaner. I use the fume free type so I don't gas myself out.
Slug
Joined: September 02, 2004
KitMaker: 705 posts
Armorama: 505 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 06:52 AM UTC
Painting can be very frustrating when its not going well (I know) , you may want to check out this site its well written any not to long winded. Nice beakdown of various modelling methods including brush painting.
http://hem.bredband.net/thomaskolb/art/models/introduction_e.htm
http://hem.bredband.net/thomaskolb/art/models/introduction_e.htm
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 06:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
ok.. I just finished brushing the top shell olive drab, and its looks horrible!!!
Are you painting before you glue the parts together? If so, I would advise against it. Most model glues will not stick through a layer of paint.
Quoted Text
The paint on various part of the model is clumpy and some part of the model its smooth.
Exactly what paints are you using?
Quoted Text
Is there something I could so that the pain would look a little more smooth.
Not really, once the paint is applied. By the way, how "clumpy" is clumpy? 1/8" lumps or paint or small little nodules of paint or a difference between a matt or flat finish and an area of smooth or glossy finish?
Quoted Text
Also, how do I remove the paint off my model without damaging it?
I also like to use Easy Off. Put the model in a plastic bag, spray it in the bag and seal it up for a day with a twist tie. The concentrating effect of the bag enhances the stripping action. Be very careful not to get it in your eyes or mouth and I would wear gloves to prevent it getting on your hands as it will kill the outer layer of skin causing your skin to crack and peel (especially on the knuckls of the fingers where they are continuously flexing.) Its like having a dozen paper cuts!
By the next day the solution will ahve dried, but a gentle wash and scrub with an OLD toothbrush will remove the bulk of the paint. If you haven't stripped enough another coating with Easy Off will do the trick. You might find some of the joints come loose, but the plastic itself will be unharmed even if the paint stains the plastic a bit.
Paul
Fuhrer
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 07:18 AM UTC
That is what im talking about, "Easy-off" that is the most cheapest thing out there..
Paul,
I used the MM enamel paint to brush my model.
I paint the top before I did any glueing, I didn't paint the parts where I expect to be putting glue at, so there's no worry there.
As for the clumpy, you know when you put a layer of paint and then realized you have to put another cause you missed a few spot/dots. Then, once you put in the second layer, the first empty spots get coverup and the previous layer that was already there got thick, which make it look clumpy.. that is what it seems to be happening..
Paul,
I used the MM enamel paint to brush my model.
I paint the top before I did any glueing, I didn't paint the parts where I expect to be putting glue at, so there's no worry there.
As for the clumpy, you know when you put a layer of paint and then realized you have to put another cause you missed a few spot/dots. Then, once you put in the second layer, the first empty spots get coverup and the previous layer that was already there got thick, which make it look clumpy.. that is what it seems to be happening..
mikeli125
Joined: December 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,595 posts
Armorama: 1,209 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 07:32 AM UTC
after you've cleaned all the old paint off think about spraying a coat of car paint primer over the kit and allow it to dry for a day or so this will help when you come to putting on layers of paint later,
As for the paint it's better to put on a few thin coats instead of one thick coat this is were you maybe getting lumps of paint from. Also give your paint a really good sake then stir with a toothpick or coffee stirrer this with help even the paint out. as if the paints been stood for a bit the tinners from the paint rise to the top leaving a big glob of paint at the bottom
As for the paint it's better to put on a few thin coats instead of one thick coat this is were you maybe getting lumps of paint from. Also give your paint a really good sake then stir with a toothpick or coffee stirrer this with help even the paint out. as if the paints been stood for a bit the tinners from the paint rise to the top leaving a big glob of paint at the bottom
Fuhrer
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 07:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
after you've cleaned all the old paint off think about spraying a coat of car paint primer over the kit and allow it to dry for a day or so this will help when you come to putting on layers of paint later,
As for the paint it's better to put on a few thin coats instead of one thick coat this is were you maybe getting lumps of paint from. Also give your paint a really good sake then stir with a toothpick or coffee stirrer this with help even the paint out. as if the paints been stood for a bit the tinners from the paint rise to the top leaving a big glob of paint at the bottom
ok.. gotcha, what is a brand of "car paint primer"? is it also available in hardware stores? or would I have to go to an auto shop to get a hand of those.
mikeli125
Joined: December 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,595 posts
Armorama: 1,209 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 07:48 AM UTC
not sure what brands you have in the states you might be able to find them in hardware shops but auto shops will be easier to purchase from just buy the biggest can of primer grey/matt black you can find it will last awhile and doesnt cost very much, if you vist the auto shop pick up some grades of wet and dry paper from 600 grit up to 1200 grit these are very cheap and are usefull for sanding attchment points off kits and smoothing out filler if you need to use it
Fuhrer
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 07:56 AM UTC
so I should get the grey/matt black primer? not that I realized we are both in different countries, what is the main purpose of car primers? just incase those guys have no idea what im talking or maybe we call it something else here..
For example, "wet and dry paper from 600 grit up to 1200 grit". I neve heard of unit grit in my life, I assume its the units you guys use, we probably use something else.
You metion I need wet and dry paper to sand, couldn't I just use "sand paper", also, Why would I need to sand the "attachement points"? so that the glue would stick better?
For example, "wet and dry paper from 600 grit up to 1200 grit". I neve heard of unit grit in my life, I assume its the units you guys use, we probably use something else.
You metion I need wet and dry paper to sand, couldn't I just use "sand paper", also, Why would I need to sand the "attachement points"? so that the glue would stick better?
mikeli125
Joined: December 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,595 posts
Armorama: 1,209 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 08:05 AM UTC
the primer/base coat helps give the paint something to bite into and helps to give better paint coverage over the kit you can use matt black and allow it to show through on areas/edges ect this helps weather it a little,
as for the wet and dry 1200 is a very fine grit and will smooth out any marks left by the lower graded papers
if you soak the wet and dry in water it lasts a little longer and gives a better finish and isnt as harsh as regular sandpaper its useful for sanding off excess plastic left on the parts you have just cut off
as for the wet and dry 1200 is a very fine grit and will smooth out any marks left by the lower graded papers
if you soak the wet and dry in water it lasts a little longer and gives a better finish and isnt as harsh as regular sandpaper its useful for sanding off excess plastic left on the parts you have just cut off
m1garand
Joined: February 08, 2002
KitMaker: 1,248 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 08:25 AM UTC
Grit is the number of abrasive particles or grains per square inch. Grits can be as high as 1500, but for most homeowner needs the following grit range is quite sufficient.
Grit Size
Characteristics and Uses
36 - 40 Extra Coarse Heavy material removal on extremely coarse surfaces.
50 - 60 Coarse Heavy material removal, rough sanding or paint stripping.
80 - 100 Medium Medium material removal and pre-paint finishing.
120 - 150 Fine Light material removal and pre-paint finishing.
180 - 220 Very Fine Finish sanding and sanding between coats.
280 - 320 Extra Fine Sanding between finish coats.
360 - 600 Super Fine Final surface sanding.
A basic idea of "grit"
Grit Size
Characteristics and Uses
36 - 40 Extra Coarse Heavy material removal on extremely coarse surfaces.
50 - 60 Coarse Heavy material removal, rough sanding or paint stripping.
80 - 100 Medium Medium material removal and pre-paint finishing.
120 - 150 Fine Light material removal and pre-paint finishing.
180 - 220 Very Fine Finish sanding and sanding between coats.
280 - 320 Extra Fine Sanding between finish coats.
360 - 600 Super Fine Final surface sanding.
A basic idea of "grit"
AJLaFleche
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 08:29 AM UTC
They'll know what primer is.
What it does is first give a good surface for the next color of paint to grip. Second, it's quite opaque so it evens out any color differences, such as where putty or bondo has been applied. The thinner color coats could be affected by different tonalities.
For your purposes, it will do the same. If you can get an enamel or acrylic primer you'll be better off, less toxic.
Remember, when using a rattle can, to allow yourself a lot of ventilation and keep the model rather far from the can tip. The pressure and flow will very rapidly build up excess amounts of paint, obscuring details. A couple light passes from arm's length will be much better than one from a foot away. Move the can rapidly to avoid build up.
Grit numbers are used as measure of roughness in the paper. The lower the number the rougher the paper. Fine polishing pads have a grit of 32000. Unless you're correcting blemishes in clear parts or building glossy cars, this is way beyond what you need, but the 1200 will do you well. Wet and Dry allows you to wet the paper so it won't clog up.
What it does is first give a good surface for the next color of paint to grip. Second, it's quite opaque so it evens out any color differences, such as where putty or bondo has been applied. The thinner color coats could be affected by different tonalities.
For your purposes, it will do the same. If you can get an enamel or acrylic primer you'll be better off, less toxic.
Remember, when using a rattle can, to allow yourself a lot of ventilation and keep the model rather far from the can tip. The pressure and flow will very rapidly build up excess amounts of paint, obscuring details. A couple light passes from arm's length will be much better than one from a foot away. Move the can rapidly to avoid build up.
Grit numbers are used as measure of roughness in the paper. The lower the number the rougher the paper. Fine polishing pads have a grit of 32000. Unless you're correcting blemishes in clear parts or building glossy cars, this is way beyond what you need, but the 1200 will do you well. Wet and Dry allows you to wet the paper so it won't clog up.
SgtWilhite
Joined: July 07, 2004
KitMaker: 470 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 04:28 PM UTC
Easy off does work well, but I have used Ronson Lighter fluid to get off enamel paint. I've used it to strip paint off of a built model once and it didn't effect the glued parts. Maybe I was just lucky that it didn't, but it did get the paint off. 
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