I've recently purchased Verlindens tank ammo boxes, and being a beginner, I've come across a problem. Like all semi-new modelers, I'm used to the parts comeing on plastic "trees". But the ammo boxes came on a flat piece of plastic, all molded together. This is not a problem when I break apart each individual piece, for I can sand down the sides. My problem is with the bottom of the boxes still molded to this thick sheet of plastic. How do I remove this? Sanding would take forever, and this problem Is holding up my entire project. I've even gone as far as asking the WIFE for advise on this.HELP!!!

Ziggy.....
Pretty simple.....
1. on larger pour plugs I use a razor saw, then a little sanding will take care of the rest.
2. On smaller, thinner pour plugs, I simply score a few times with the exacto knife, and these parts normally come free, again a little sanding with take care of any little bit of pour plugs left.

OH.... Edit---- Resin is harmful to your lungs...... really harmful..... wear a dust mask when sanding.

ziggy:

I know your pain- LOL. First off, I wasn't aware that Verlinden made plastic accessories. Are you sure it isn't resin? I would assume it is.

Anyway, you can go two ways with this one. Companies like X-acto, Zona, Olfa, etc make fine toothed sawblades that fit into your hobby knife handle. Rather than slicing with a scalpel blade, you get to saw. They work really well.

Also, if you have a moto-tool like those sold by Dremel, you can put in a fine cutting wheel and attack the problem that way. When using this method, I usually cut just shy of the actual piece, and then sand the rest by hand so as to avoid damaging the piece itself.

In either case, when working with resin (which I assume it is), make sure to where a dust mask. Resin dust is not the best stuff to be inhaling.

If what you have is really plastic and not resin, then I would use the hand sawblade vs. the moto-tool. The speed of the cutting wheel would most likely melt some of the plastic.

Hope this helps.

John

Lots of ways to remove parts from resin casting blocks, but first
BE careful!
I'm told resin dust is really hazardous.

Sanding takes forever, you're right.

But for parts like the Verlinden ammo baxes, I use my sprue cutters and clip , nibble really, away the pour blocks until I am close enough to sand.

Before sanding I will take a fine point sharpie marker and draw around the bottom of the part and just onto the pour block, so I'll know when I'm getting close.

I tape a sheet of wet /dry sandpaper to a plate of safety glass and sand in a figure eight motion, reversing direction every 5 or so repetitions.


Also you can use a razor saw, a long rigid blade. some come permentantly attached to the handle, some are replacable.
You can get them at the hobby shop there with the x-acto knives.
Xacto makes a set of saw blades for the larger handle (#17?)

Micro Mark -google them, but I think they're micromark.com makes xacto blades with teeth cut into them. They're not cheap, but they work very well.

For larger blocks, ship or tank hulls , you can use a grinder bit in your Dremel or a belt sander. But smaller parts are hard to keep a grip on.

Mike

Hey boys,

Thanks for the help. My modeling knowledge is still confined to plastic ''trees'' so this area of resin is new to me.( wow, Im a poet and didn't know it.) Anyway, are these Dremel tools sold at local hobby shops? are they the little electric tools used to grind and sand? And if so, what other uses do they have?


Ziggy

Ziggy:

A dremel tool has an abundant number of uses. They are used for sanding, drilling, cutting, polishing, grinding, etc. Some of the nicer sets come with over 60 different pieces (like various sanding disks, grinding bits, different grades of polishing tips)

I really like mine. You can pick them up at many well stocked hobby shops, or order them online.


John