_GOTOBOTTOM
Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
DML's Panther A (Normandy)
Biggles2
Visit this Community
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 08:56 AM UTC
I read where a couple of modelers have had fit problems in the rear deck area on DML's Panther A and Early Jagdpanther. Apparently there are no missing parts involved, just poor engineering or fudging from DML. I was test fitting the parts of my late Panther A, just to see, and there was that gap between the end of the engine compartment and the rear plate. The problem is that the lower hull is about 2 - 3 mm. too long. If you take the upper hull and snug it down right to the end it will fit perfectly against the rear plate (with the appropriate narrow space between the rear radiator grills and the rear plate). However, the front end becomes quite ugly because the lower hull is a bit longer than the upper and the leading edge of the glacis no longer meets the lower hull with about a 3 mm. gap to fill with styrene strip. There is also a resulting narrow space to fill between the front hull sides just above the final drive and the downward slope of the glacis plate. Since the tank should be Zimmerited anyway, any signs of surgery will be concealed. It's probably a similar problem with the Early Jagdpanther.
TsunamiBomb
Visit this Community
Arizona, United States
Joined: September 21, 2004
KitMaker: 1,447 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 09:14 AM UTC
Yes, I had the same exact problem on my DML halftrack. The plate where the doors fit and the side plates. There was a huge gap there that cant be filled with putty. I am wondering whats up!?
Martinnnn
Visit this Community
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 09:30 AM UTC
Does the Tamiya jagdpanther have the same problem? Almost bought the DML one for € 30 some time ago. It has the advantage of a alu barrel and photoetch that come with the kit....

Greetings,
Martin
warthog
Visit this Community
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 11:25 AM UTC
Hi Biggles

I also encountered that problemI when I built the same kit (there really are no missing parts) . Its probably the mold they use -- I think all DML kits related to Panther has that problem. Just put some styrene at the rear part to cover the gap. If my memory serves me right, in the real thing there should be a steel plate between the end of the engine compartment and the rear plate.

I fixed mine by just putting styrene to cover for the gap.

Cheers
Kelley
Visit this Community
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 1,966 posts
Armorama: 1,635 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 01:28 PM UTC
This is not a mistake. I just checked my refs, on the Panther A & D there is a small gap between the rectangular grills and the rear hull plate. It was normally covered with the mesh screen. So build it as is and if you have the mesh, it should cover the grills and the blank space. The middle section should go all the way back. I hope this makes since, if I had a scanner I'd post pics, unfortunately I don't.

Mike
cfbush2000
Visit this Community
North Dakota, United States
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 1,796 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 01:40 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Yes, I had the same exact problem on my DML halftrack. The plate where the doors fit and the side plates. There was a huge gap there that cant be filled with putty. I am wondering whats up!?



I also had fit problems with the 251 D 3in1 kit but chocked it up to an error in my build.

Chuck
Monte
Visit this Community
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: December 08, 2002
KitMaker: 833 posts
Armorama: 601 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 02:31 PM UTC
Thanks guys. I just bought this kit. I apperciate the heads up.
Biggles2
Visit this Community
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2005 - 07:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

This is not a mistake. I just checked my refs, on the Panther A & D there is a small gap between the rectangular grills and the rear hull plate. It was normally covered with the mesh screen. So build it as is and if you have the mesh, it should cover the grills and the blank space. The middle section should go all the way back. I hope this makes since, if I had a scanner I'd post pics, unfortunately I don't.

Mike


If you read carefully what I wrote, I said that when you snug the upper hull down until that central section between the rear radiators comes into contact with the rear plate, a narrow space occurs between the rear rads and the rear plate. We agree on this. I checked my references on this too. This is the correct position. But when you look at the front end, the upper and lower hulls are mismatched by about 3mm. I checked my references and this does not look normal :-) . ( My kingdom for a digital camera!!) And if you start at the front end and match up the upper and lower glacis, there is a resulting extra wide gap the full width of the hull at the rear - NO part of the rear deck comes into contact with the rear plate, and this is also not normal. The lower hull definitely is longer than the upper. No correction is needed at the rear end - it's a good fit. The leading edge of the upper glacis needs to be lengthened by a few millimeters until it reaches the lower and any small gaps filled. Actually, without careful measuring, it's hard to tell whether the upper hull is too short, or if the lower hull is too long.
SpiritsEye
Visit this Community
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: May 09, 2004
KitMaker: 1,041 posts
Armorama: 533 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2005 - 04:22 AM UTC
yup man, this is a mistake on DML's part...

i just fixed my jagdpanther with plastic strips taken from the 'spares'
Kelley
Visit this Community
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 1,966 posts
Armorama: 1,635 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2005 - 10:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

If you read carefully what I wrote, I said that when you snug the upper hull down until that central section between the rear radiators comes into contact with the rear plate, a narrow space occurs between the rear rads and the rear plate. We agree on this. I checked my references on this too. This is the correct position. But when you look at the front end, the upper and lower hulls are mismatched by about 3mm. I checked my references and this does not look normal . ( My kingdom for a digital camera!!) And if you start at the front end and match up the upper and lower glacis, there is a resulting extra wide gap the full width of the hull at the rear - NO part of the rear deck comes into contact with the rear plate, and this is also not normal. The lower hull definitely is longer than the upper. No correction is needed at the rear end - it's a good fit. The leading edge of the upper glacis needs to be lengthened by a few millimeters until it reaches the lower and any small gaps filled. Actually, without careful measuring, it's hard to tell whether the upper hull is too short, or if the lower hull is too long.


Biggles2, I did read your post carefully, but I went back and read it again just in case, and I may have found the problem. I also have this kit and did some test fitting last night, and my upper and lower hulls line up very nicely. Did you use part M27 when you were doing your test fitting? This is the part that is the "top" of the upper glacis plate and it fits in the area on the sides, and where the lower and upper hulls meet. If you didn't use it that is why you are getting the gap in front. If you did...then I guess Dragon screwed some of them up because as I said mine looks good.

Cheers,
Mike
Biggles2
Visit this Community
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 - 03:34 AM UTC
Well...DUHHHHHHH!! What an idiot!! That's what I get for not wearing my glasses. I better go back to Model Building 101! Didn't realize there was a part #27...I didn't look at the instructions either. Without my glasses it looked like the front of the tank already had the glacis attached. Sincere apologies to both you and Dragon. It looks like everything is going to fit nice and square with no warps or gaps. Should be a nice model when I get around to building it.
 _GOTOTOP