Hi guys

i would like to try out doing oil washes and need some advice

what colours should i get? i want to 'bring' out the details of my models. I heard alot about 'burnt sienna' and 'raw umber', or something like that. (one of the art stores around here carries winsor & newton oil paints)

what type of brush are suitable for washes?

can the winsor & newton oil paints be diluted with tap water? if not, what is best for diluting the oil paint?

after finishing washing, what do i clean my brush with? the medium i used for diluting the oil paint?

thanks in advance!

Big NO on the water.. oil and water don't mix!!!

Use Turpenoid.. or Spirtis of Turpentine... use clean thinner for cleaning the brushes after

Burnt Sienna and Raw Umber are a great start.. get some black also.. so that you can darken a lil if you want...

Windsor and Newton.. or what ever it's called.. is a good company for oils.. Oils are expensive... but if your just doing washes.. the tubes will last you forever...

make sure you do a 'clear' gloss coat prior to your wash.. to help it flow better.. and protect teh paint job underneath... a lot of people use Future Floor Polish straight from the bottle, no thinning for this..

Hi,

See my post:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/46682

another question guys,

is washing with enamels the same as washing with oils?

after i washed the model, i just use a rag and cleaned off the parts i dont want the wash to be right?

i'm thinking of using enamels, as they're cheaper.

Winsor&Newton make both kinds of oil paints-traditional type that requires turps to thin and clean with, and a water mixable type.(It will say on the tube label).Yes,you can use plain tap water to wash coat your build AND to clean your nice sable brush-no harm at all.You can also use those same paints with turps to do a wash also.I have even used mineral spirits for this action(quicker drying than turps).Sure,you can use enamels for washes too!No problemo whatsoever.
The key is to let each wash dry,cure,and BITE into the layer below it before you put the next coat/wash on.
About 3days for enamels,4 days for oils(no matter if you used turps or water for the solvent).If this is done,then there is no need for a clear barrier coat such as Future.Some guys say it helps the wash flow better for them.Whatever floats their boat.I use Future as a backdrop for waterslide decals to eliminate 'silvering'.Then a little more over them to seal it up.
Cheers!

Hi Rick,

So lets say if i wanted to use the water soluble winsor/newton oils and i finished washing my model with it. So i wait for a few days for it to dry up? Then i use a rag dampened with water (instead of thinner) and clean up the places where i do not want the wash to be?

Can that be done?

thanks

I know the magazines tout a heavy wash all over the place followed by clean up. As Tony Soprano would say, "Fogedaboudit!" Use a fine brush (0 to 1 at most) and dab the wash WHERE you want it and at junctions of panel lines. Allow capilary action to pull the wash along. Try NOT to get it on places where you don't want it.

Using a solvent moistened rag will damage the base coat unless it's heavily sealed. You'll have to consatntly change the spot you're using on the rag or you'll be smearing paint all over the place. If the paint in the panel lines is still partially dry, you're likely to suck that up, too. Using a dry rag on still wet paint will pull the paint out of the panel lines as well and will still likely smear you paint job, ruining both paint and decals. Doing it the way I'm suggesting also reduces the time between base coat and wash, since you're not dragging a brush across a weakened paint.

Any excess wash will be blended in when you dry brush or add other weathering.

Using water in a wash is difficult because of the surface tension of water, the tendency to bead up on a glossy or non-porous surface. You'd have to add something to reduce this. Thinners have less surface tension so they flow more smoothly alonf the panel lines. .