AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
LifeColor Paint
SEDimmick
New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 15, 2002
KitMaker: 1,745 posts
Armorama: 1,483 posts
Joined: March 15, 2002
KitMaker: 1,745 posts
Armorama: 1,483 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 12:47 PM UTC
I have a couple bottles of Lifecolor's acrylic paint and I was wondering two things...what ratio of paint to thinner you use to airbrush it (the paint is a bit thicker then Tamiya and Testors Acryl lines I normaly use) and what is a good thinner to use with the paint for airbrushing?
Kencelot
Florida, United States
Joined: December 27, 2001
KitMaker: 4,268 posts
Armorama: 2,804 posts
Joined: December 27, 2001
KitMaker: 4,268 posts
Armorama: 2,804 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 12:55 PM UTC
I use alcohol (rubbing - Isopropyl)to thin them. About 20/80 thinner to paint.
Posted: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 09:26 PM UTC
:-) I use Lifecolor paints. Yes they are alot thicker than most acrylic paints, the advantage of this is that you get much more for your money. Unlike Aeromaster paints you do not need to strain them of any bits. The manufacturers recomended thinner is distilled water, which is what I use. The ratio is more like 30/70 paint/thinner, with a few drops of acrylic flow enhancer, I use Windsor & Newton. If I'm spraying fine lines I'll cut the mix again with some (I couldn't tell you the proportion) windscreen (windshield) washer fluid. This stops the paint drying on the tip, like all fast drying acrylics do.
I've been most impressed with this paint :-) I thought Aeromaster were good but Lifcolor is better, mainly because you don't have the problem with having to strain the paint.
Like all new paint you need to experiment. HTH.
I've been most impressed with this paint :-) I thought Aeromaster were good but Lifcolor is better, mainly because you don't have the problem with having to strain the paint.
Like all new paint you need to experiment. HTH.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 12, 2002 - 12:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
:-) I use Lifecolor paints. Yes they are alot thicker than most acrylic paints, the advantage of this is that you get much more for your money. Unlike Aeromaster paints you do not need to strain them of any bits. The manufacturers recomended thinner is distilled water, which is what I use. The ratio is more like 30/70 paint/thinner, with a few drops of acrylic flow enhancer, I use Windsor & Newton. If I'm spraying fine lines I'll cut the mix again with some (I couldn't tell you the proportion) windscreen (windshield) washer fluid. This stops the paint drying on the tip, like all fast drying acrylics do.
I've been most impressed with this paint :-) I thought Aeromaster were good but Lifcolor is better, mainly because you don't have the problem with having to strain the paint.
Like all new paint you need to experiment. HTH.
Good one Holdfast. So you are a sapper cool same in US army I guess.
Wolf-Leader
New Hampshire, United States
Joined: June 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,225 posts
Armorama: 520 posts
Joined: June 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,225 posts
Armorama: 520 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 07:30 AM UTC
What I use to thin my acrylics is Windex Blue. It has a small amount of lubracant in it that makes, in my opinon, the paint flow smoothly. As for what Holdfast said about straining the paint? I am not sure on how to do this. Holdfast can you please tell me what you are talking about? :-)
Posted: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 08:48 AM UTC
[ As for what Holdfast said about straining the paint? I am not sure on how to do this. Holdfast can you please tell me what you are talking about? :-) [/quote]
Hi Wolf-Leader,
In my experience Areo Master paints require straining because of the presence of solid particals. To strain these out of the paint I would use a rubber band to secure a piece of pantyhose (think thats what you Americans call it) over the neck of paint bottle of my airbrush, this allows the paint through but not the particals. This problem does not occur with Lifcolor. I hope that clears it up.
Mal
Hi Wolf-Leader,
In my experience Areo Master paints require straining because of the presence of solid particals. To strain these out of the paint I would use a rubber band to secure a piece of pantyhose (think thats what you Americans call it) over the neck of paint bottle of my airbrush, this allows the paint through but not the particals. This problem does not occur with Lifcolor. I hope that clears it up.
Mal
Posted: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 09:10 AM UTC
Good one Holdfast. So you are a sapper cool same in US army I guess.[/quote]
Hi jeff, :-)
Yes Sapper is a term used for a member of the Royal Engineers. It derives from the term to sap which, in medieval times, was a method of digging a trench towords the enemy, below ground level, to enable the army to bring its siege weapons within range. Which is also, partly, why the phrase "first in last out" was used. This, of course applies to all combat engineers, these days. UBIQUE is latin for everywhere, the Royal Engineers moto.
I'm a retired combat engineer but once a Sapper always a Sapper.
Mal
Hi jeff, :-)
Yes Sapper is a term used for a member of the Royal Engineers. It derives from the term to sap which, in medieval times, was a method of digging a trench towords the enemy, below ground level, to enable the army to bring its siege weapons within range. Which is also, partly, why the phrase "first in last out" was used. This, of course applies to all combat engineers, these days. UBIQUE is latin for everywhere, the Royal Engineers moto.
I'm a retired combat engineer but once a Sapper always a Sapper.
Mal