... I was taking a bath....
Hi all,
I'm working on my first diorama ever. It's going to be a small scene of a Swedish Saab S 17BS that's in for some maintenance. During this rather warm summer's day of 1945, one of the mecanics decides to take a bath (you get the drift if you look at the picture further down...). Anyhow, I didn't find any articles etc on how to accomplish the splashing effects that I sought, so I've been experimenting a little - and voilà!
"Splash!";
Here you see the diorama idea (= before I started experimenting);
I'm pretty pleased with the "splashing" result! I'm going to do a little more experimenting before I'm done. It would be nice to here you're comments and your input.
Everything is 1/72.
Cheers!
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Splish splash!
PolarBear
Västra Götaland, Sweden
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 07:19 AM UTC
Tarok
Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 09:18 AM UTC
That's excellent!
Would you please share with us how you did it?
Thanks
Rudi
Would you please share with us how you did it?
Thanks
Rudi
Sticky
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 09:39 AM UTC
Looks great! And pleae tell us more about the technique!
dsc
Gdańsk, Poland
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 09:46 AM UTC
All I can say is: wow!!... this is realy incredible, it looks so real.
You gotta write how you managed to achieve such a great effect. One thing bothers me though. The side views really look amazing but that other shot, which includes the airplain looks kind of wierd. Just as if the water isn't deep enough. I don't know if it looks like this in real life, but the photo gives a strange impression, as if the base of the container is visible (I mean the base of the whole box, which holds the resin, I guess it's because of the greenish color of the resin). It can also be a reflection on the surface of the resin. Besides that it looks really cool!!
cheers,
dsc.
You gotta write how you managed to achieve such a great effect. One thing bothers me though. The side views really look amazing but that other shot, which includes the airplain looks kind of wierd. Just as if the water isn't deep enough. I don't know if it looks like this in real life, but the photo gives a strange impression, as if the base of the container is visible (I mean the base of the whole box, which holds the resin, I guess it's because of the greenish color of the resin). It can also be a reflection on the surface of the resin. Besides that it looks really cool!!
cheers,
dsc.
Arthur
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 11:32 AM UTC
Mr Bear,you have just got to share that amazing splash,like in how do i do it
Arthur
Arthur
PolarBear
Västra Götaland, Sweden
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 12:25 PM UTC
Thanks all!!!
I truly appreciate your comments, especially since I am really a beginner.
Given all the advise I have recieved at this site (and a couple of other ones), I'm happy to share the technique I "invented" for the splash. - Most of the water is made of "Realistic water" from Woodland Scenics. - Yes DSC, it does look a little strange on the middle picture. The picture was taken when there was only approx 4-5 mm of "water" + the white glue to make the water look upset (this layer is now 3-4 mm below the surface), and no waves what so ever - this has changed.
I thought a lot about how to accomplish the "splash" that I needed, and searched the net for answers. However, I didn't find any technique that would do the trick. I thought about using everything from small plastic rods, fishing line, glue... anything transperent... and then it hit me.
Humbrol Clearfix (which I had previously used for small camera windows on a recon Spitfire) is a very clear and very gooey substance. If i could only mould it...
I'm afraid that I didn't take too many pictures of the technique, but I at least have one. I made a ring out of wire, poured a rather thick ring of Clearfix around the figure, laid the ring down on the Clearfix and let it rest there for a while (approx 15 minutes), and then slowly raised the ring, affixing it to the side. - It didn't really work as I had hoped - (Hey! I hadn't tried it before!!!) - but working for a while with a toothpick (stretching the Clearfix etc) I managed to attain the result that you see.
I let it harden for approx 10 hours, and then I cut it along the rim with a scalpell. It has been standing for alomost two days now, and I don't see any signs of "sacking".
Final note - When seeing the extreme close-up of my diving mechanic ( NB: a somewhat converted zulu warrior(!)), I realize that he needs some touch up with regard to the painting! This will be done! :-)
Cheers!
I truly appreciate your comments, especially since I am really a beginner.
Given all the advise I have recieved at this site (and a couple of other ones), I'm happy to share the technique I "invented" for the splash. - Most of the water is made of "Realistic water" from Woodland Scenics. - Yes DSC, it does look a little strange on the middle picture. The picture was taken when there was only approx 4-5 mm of "water" + the white glue to make the water look upset (this layer is now 3-4 mm below the surface), and no waves what so ever - this has changed.
I thought a lot about how to accomplish the "splash" that I needed, and searched the net for answers. However, I didn't find any technique that would do the trick. I thought about using everything from small plastic rods, fishing line, glue... anything transperent... and then it hit me.
Humbrol Clearfix (which I had previously used for small camera windows on a recon Spitfire) is a very clear and very gooey substance. If i could only mould it...
I'm afraid that I didn't take too many pictures of the technique, but I at least have one. I made a ring out of wire, poured a rather thick ring of Clearfix around the figure, laid the ring down on the Clearfix and let it rest there for a while (approx 15 minutes), and then slowly raised the ring, affixing it to the side. - It didn't really work as I had hoped - (Hey! I hadn't tried it before!!!) - but working for a while with a toothpick (stretching the Clearfix etc) I managed to attain the result that you see.
I let it harden for approx 10 hours, and then I cut it along the rim with a scalpell. It has been standing for alomost two days now, and I don't see any signs of "sacking".
Final note - When seeing the extreme close-up of my diving mechanic ( NB: a somewhat converted zulu warrior(!)), I realize that he needs some touch up with regard to the painting! This will be done! :-)
Cheers!
generalrazo
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 01:15 PM UTC
Very cool effect and very cool method...I like
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 02:16 PM UTC
That is a fantastic water effect. Very creative!
Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 02:32 PM UTC
And to top it off, he casualy mentions that this is in 1:72... It makes you want to cry... What do these 'wingy' guys know that we 'trackheads' don't.. :-)
But seriously, that is great stuff, not only the technique, but the idea itself. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Cheers
Henk
But seriously, that is great stuff, not only the technique, but the idea itself. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Cheers
Henk
fanai
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 04:11 PM UTC
Bear great idea and well executed and thanks for sharing
Ian
Ian
Petition2God
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 04:53 PM UTC
The photos look super realistic! Thank you so much for sharing it. This has to be one of the best effects I've seen on Armoram.
P2G
P2G
generalrazo
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 06:49 PM UTC
Whoa! I didn't even take notice he said it was in 1/72!!!! That makes it all the more amazing!
Big congrats on this one bro!
Eddie
Big congrats on this one bro!
Eddie
HONEYCUT
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 10:23 PM UTC
Fantastic! good to see the creative juices flowing and getting the job done yourself after finding no info... Two thumbs up!
(Or two feet;) :-)
(Or two feet;) :-)
Danial
Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 11:27 PM UTC
you're the man...its amazing how u manage to do this...btw thanx for sharing...
slodder
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 11:30 PM UTC
The splash IS fantastic.
Couple of thoughts, the rest of the water is to calm, to flat. Not sure if varying the under color will help or not, maybe a few ripples elsewhere.....
I can see a seam line in the pontoon on AC.
With just a touch of work this will really be a winner.
Thanks
Couple of thoughts, the rest of the water is to calm, to flat. Not sure if varying the under color will help or not, maybe a few ripples elsewhere.....
I can see a seam line in the pontoon on AC.
With just a touch of work this will really be a winner.
Thanks
Hwa-Rang
Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 12:38 AM UTC
Very realistic splash polarbear. Excellent technique. Thanks for sharing.
Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 04:57 AM UTC
Wow,
that splash looks awesome... an I think pretty lifelike...
Looking at thos pictures, is it safe to assume you still have to do the top layer of the water?
As I see the complete lack of ripples on the water, and that only happens in an indoor swimming pool... and not in a lake... as there is the lack of ripples emanating form the diving dude as well...
All I can say is keep this up, and I am awaiting your results...
Harm
that splash looks awesome... an I think pretty lifelike...
Looking at thos pictures, is it safe to assume you still have to do the top layer of the water?
As I see the complete lack of ripples on the water, and that only happens in an indoor swimming pool... and not in a lake... as there is the lack of ripples emanating form the diving dude as well...
All I can say is keep this up, and I am awaiting your results...
Harm
PolarBear
Västra Götaland, Sweden
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Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 05:00 AM UTC
Thanx again, y'all! I do hope that the method - with a little moderation - can come in handy for all builders (for example; a ship-launched torpedo hitting the surface)
Yes Slodder, I am going to try to get a ripple effect on the water. I have been out sailing all day, and done little but observe the surface of the water, in order to get some inspiration...
Now, if I can only find a cool method to make tiny waves and riples....
Yes Slodder, I am going to try to get a ripple effect on the water. I have been out sailing all day, and done little but observe the surface of the water, in order to get some inspiration...
Now, if I can only find a cool method to make tiny waves and riples....
Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 05:34 AM UTC
Hi Mr. Bear. I found when making shallow water, to make it look deep, you definately need to tint the water. Start off with a dark green or brown. Then, alternate between layers of tinted blues, greens and browns. Each tint layer gets lighter all the time ---- less colour. By the last few, its totally clear.
To make the ripples I used the gel-type super glue, and a tooth-pick. Make circles increasing around the splash, and flick up little bits here and there. Add some thin white to their peaks, and finish off with another layer or two of high gloss.
This is roughly what I did below. Coupled with your "splash" it could look amazing. The darker lower layers and the gloss finish will mirror the aircraft and be like real water ...taking its visible colour from its surroundings. Good luck and hope to see this some day!
To make the ripples I used the gel-type super glue, and a tooth-pick. Make circles increasing around the splash, and flick up little bits here and there. Add some thin white to their peaks, and finish off with another layer or two of high gloss.
This is roughly what I did below. Coupled with your "splash" it could look amazing. The darker lower layers and the gloss finish will mirror the aircraft and be like real water ...taking its visible colour from its surroundings. Good luck and hope to see this some day!
Simon
Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 06:51 AM UTC
Lovely idea. Always nice to see something really different.
Good work - bra jobbat!
Simon
Good work - bra jobbat!
Simon
Asmenoth
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Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 08:10 AM UTC
That looks awsome and great idea!! I ust don't envy you painting the mechanic.
:-)
:-)
PolarBear
Västra Götaland, Sweden
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Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 08:24 AM UTC
Frank! You seem to have acheived the "texture" that I'm looking for. Excellent work!! - Is the disturbed surface made with super glue gel and toothpick??
I'm not so sure about the circles. The guy has just hit the water.
I'm afraid that it will not be possible for me to tint the water (I only have one - maybe two - more layers of water, and than the "ripples"). Anyhow - I'm still a beginner, so this is mostly for practice.
I'm not so sure about the circles. The guy has just hit the water.
I'm afraid that it will not be possible for me to tint the water (I only have one - maybe two - more layers of water, and than the "ripples"). Anyhow - I'm still a beginner, so this is mostly for practice.
PolarBear
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Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 08:36 AM UTC
Asmenoth,
Painting the mechanic will (hopefully) not be any problem at all. The beauty of the "splash" is that he is totally dry (surrounded by the cascade of water) :-)
Painting the mechanic will (hopefully) not be any problem at all. The beauty of the "splash" is that he is totally dry (surrounded by the cascade of water) :-)
Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 10:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Is the disturbed surface made with super glue gel and toothpick??
Yes, exactly. Spread out little ripples where you want them with a tooth-pick. Make little flicks as well in the gel, as you go along.
Quoted Text
I'm not so sure about the circles. The guy has just hit the water.
A circle or two around the splash will tie it into place, plus its what most people would imagine what a splash would be. (Its sometimes better to be wrong and appear right ...rather than right and appear wrong, if you know what I mean). Missplaced water must move somewhere, so circles even at this stage seem realistic enough to me.
Add more around the shape of the floats and just some fillers to add texture around the rest.
Quoted Text
I'm afraid that it will not be possible for me to tint the water (I only have one - maybe two - more layers of water, and than the "ripples").
Even if you dont tint the water ... tinted gloss varnish will add no thickness. Paint 3 layers now, one tinted with green, one with blue and one with brown ..quite heavily tinted. Add a new layer of your resin and repeat with 3 new layers of tinted gloss, but not so heavy this time, and again after the last resin layer. These 9 layers will only be max 1mm in total. But, what they will give you, is a murky depth. You will get the appearance of depth but its not really there. I have about 12 -15 layers painted thickly on mines, and Im sure the total is under 1mm.
I used oil gloss and oil paint to tint, and gave each layer a day in between. Its important that each layer dries before the next is added. It could possibly be done quicker with acrylics.
Running each tinted layer into your splash will all tie into the water as well.
Add the ripples,and then a new gloss coat or two not tinted. Even over the ripples. This fills them out a bit and takes away any un-natural sharpness. Remember to paint the ripple tips with thin white, or even better thin "white and silver" mixed.
I know this sounds a lot of work, but you can litteralily splash on the tinted gloss. If your aircraft floats are matt finished, little gloss splashes will add to the effect. Max 5 minutes each time. Its more about waiting.
What you´ve done so far looks excellent and a lot of work has went into it. I wouldn´t take any short cuts at this stage.
What ever you decide to do, good luck with it and I hope it turns out well!
See you ´round!
Parks20
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Posted: Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 12:58 PM UTC
Great job on that splash!! Very creative, especially for a rookie. Keep up the good work, and keep us posted.