hi,
I'm currently building revell's m113 for the "nam" campaign and it needs a lot of work in my opinion. What i'm asking is good reference shot's of interior and exterior of this APC used in vietnam. Action shots would be great to since i'm planning a dio too.
I know there are a lot of experts here on Armorama, so...
thx in advance
Q
Hosted by Darren Baker
M113 A-1 Vietnam
lordQ
Joined: June 21, 2004
KitMaker: 530 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 02:08 AM UTC
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 02:32 AM UTC
Do a google image search. It will give you a couple thousand shots of M113A1s.
By the way, the Revell kit (a reboxed Italeri) is the worst M113 on the market. Sorry, you got a real dog there. The biggest issue is that the entire instrument panel/power distro box that should be next to the driver is missing. The rest of the interior is just really poor.
By the way, the Revell kit (a reboxed Italeri) is the worst M113 on the market. Sorry, you got a real dog there. The biggest issue is that the entire instrument panel/power distro box that should be next to the driver is missing. The rest of the interior is just really poor.
ptruhe
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
Armorama: 1,607 posts
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 03:07 AM UTC
If have trouble locating parts in country, let me know and I'll dig out some spare Tamiya interior parts. Plus I have the resin sandbag floor covering from the Legend M113 accessory kit.
Paul
Paul
lordQ
Joined: June 21, 2004
KitMaker: 530 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 03:08 AM UTC
i know , i just enjoy "converting" them to decent kits.
I know i'm crazy
I know i'm crazy
ptruhe
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
Armorama: 1,607 posts
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 03:33 AM UTC
We'll enjoy the challenge. If this is your first Italeri M113 kit then make sure you fix the blackout drive light they molded upside down.
Also, when I built their M163 kit, the position of the sprockets when glued was offset from the roadwheels and made it impossible to fit the link and length tracks.
Paul
Also, when I built their M163 kit, the position of the sprockets when glued was offset from the roadwheels and made it impossible to fit the link and length tracks.
Paul
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 04:09 AM UTC
Hi Quinten
As Gino have said, you can do a Google image search for "acav vietnam" and you"ll get about 78 pics. The same search on http://www.alltheweb.com will give you about 235 pics. Abundance of pics does no harm, even if the relationship between the search criteria and some of the resultant pics is far from being obvious
Good luck with your project
Frenchy
As Gino have said, you can do a Google image search for "acav vietnam" and you"ll get about 78 pics. The same search on http://www.alltheweb.com will give you about 235 pics. Abundance of pics does no harm, even if the relationship between the search criteria and some of the resultant pics is far from being obvious
Good luck with your project
Frenchy
lordQ
Joined: June 21, 2004
KitMaker: 530 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 04:16 AM UTC
..i made the searches and found some nice pictures.
Anyway thanks for the aid.
Q
Anyway thanks for the aid.
Q
ptruhe
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
Armorama: 1,607 posts
Posted: Monday, September 12, 2005 - 06:06 AM UTC
Quinten,
Without having the Revell/Italeri kit, I'm guessing as to what you could use from a Tamiya or Academy kit plus I had some input from HeavyArty.
1. Master power switch and driver's instrument panel - none are truly accurate but good visual representation
2. Driver's indicator lights which fit under the driver's periscope facing 12 oclock.
3. Radio rack if it doesn't come in the Revell/Italeri kit
None of the driver's seats in any of the kits is truly accurate as it mounts to the side of the hull at an angle and doesn't go all the way to the floor.
Not sure what the issue is with rear compartments seats. The Academy ones are better than the Tamiya ones because they have a better representation of the indention in the middle of the seats.
I don't think the M113A1 had final drive steering so you won't need the brake cylinders from the Academy kit. It doesn't come with the levers either.
I'm guessing the heater was removed in Vietnam and I think It still used the old style welded tank.
Other than that you'll have to scratch grenade boxes and either .50 cal spare barrel or M16 racks for the driver's compartment.
Paul
Without having the Revell/Italeri kit, I'm guessing as to what you could use from a Tamiya or Academy kit plus I had some input from HeavyArty.
1. Master power switch and driver's instrument panel - none are truly accurate but good visual representation
2. Driver's indicator lights which fit under the driver's periscope facing 12 oclock.
3. Radio rack if it doesn't come in the Revell/Italeri kit
None of the driver's seats in any of the kits is truly accurate as it mounts to the side of the hull at an angle and doesn't go all the way to the floor.
Not sure what the issue is with rear compartments seats. The Academy ones are better than the Tamiya ones because they have a better representation of the indention in the middle of the seats.
I don't think the M113A1 had final drive steering so you won't need the brake cylinders from the Academy kit. It doesn't come with the levers either.
I'm guessing the heater was removed in Vietnam and I think It still used the old style welded tank.
Other than that you'll have to scratch grenade boxes and either .50 cal spare barrel or M16 racks for the driver's compartment.
Paul
lordQ
Joined: June 21, 2004
KitMaker: 530 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, September 12, 2005 - 06:54 AM UTC
wooow, that would be a lot of help if i could get my hands on these parts.
How much is this going to cost me? I'd be happy to pay a couple of euros
How much is this going to cost me? I'd be happy to pay a couple of euros
lordQ
Joined: June 21, 2004
KitMaker: 530 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, September 12, 2005 - 08:24 PM UTC
I've got your PM Paul, Thank you very much!
For me the driver's compartiment and passenger compartiment are the hardest to scratch. These parts would be the nicest to have.
For me the driver's compartiment and passenger compartiment are the hardest to scratch. These parts would be the nicest to have.
wolfhounds
#165
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 33 posts
Armorama: 27 posts
Posted: Monday, January 21, 2008 - 01:50 PM UTC
"Q", i don't mean to rain on your project, but you would be better off with Academy's M113A1#1389 (Vietnam). What you have is the worst kit ever. If you have an old Tamiya kit, the fuel bladder is accurate for that era. The Academy kits have the later larger bladders(M113A2 +later models) Hope i didn't add to the problem.
Ron
Ron
trickymissfit
Joined: October 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,357 posts
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,357 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 08:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quinten,
Without having the Revell/Italeri kit, I'm guessing as to what you could use from a Tamiya or Academy kit plus I had some input from HeavyArty.
1. Master power switch and driver's instrument panel - none are truly accurate but good visual representation
2. Driver's indicator lights which fit under the driver's periscope facing 12 oclock.
3. Radio rack if it doesn't come in the Revell/Italeri kit
None of the driver's seats in any of the kits is truly accurate as it mounts to the side of the hull at an angle and doesn't go all the way to the floor.
Not sure what the issue is with rear compartments seats. The Academy ones are better than the Tamiya ones because they have a better representation of the indention in the middle of the seats.
I don't think the M113A1 had final drive steering so you won't need the brake cylinders from the Academy kit. It doesn't come with the levers either.
I'm guessing the heater was removed in Vietnam and I think It still used the old style welded tank.
Other than that you'll have to scratch grenade boxes and either .50 cal spare barrel or M16 racks for the driver's compartment.
Paul
Bother inlaw was a TC on one in the 1/4 CAV as well as in the 1st of the 1st Cav. He told me that they removed the "water steer box" prior to shipping them overseas. Also the ones used in RVN had a transmission that looked a lot like a Turbo 350 (even to size) behind a Detroit Deisel V eight engine. The Tamyia kits use the 361 Chrysler engine (gas) and retains the "water steer box." The vast majority of them didn't have the front shield. Never saw one in country that used gasoline, but have since heard that a lot of the ones used by the Vietnamese were gasoline powered. The "ACAV" turret didn't really start to show up in force till about midway thru 1968, and most used in Tet 1968 were without it. Have also seen the interiors painted in gloss white as well as sea foam green. Engines were light blue and transmissions were silver (bare metal).
gary
Drader
Joined: July 20, 2004
KitMaker: 3,791 posts
Armorama: 2,798 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 09:58 PM UTC
The Academy M113A1 has too many of the features of their A2 to make it an OOB A1 (like the engine bay for a start).
Radios for a 60s-era M113 can be taken from Tamiya's M151 kits, together with their supporting rack. Not great, but a lot better than the empty space Italeri/Revell give.
David
Radios for a 60s-era M113 can be taken from Tamiya's M151 kits, together with their supporting rack. Not great, but a lot better than the empty space Italeri/Revell give.
David
 |
WEB HOSTING BY
Copyright ©2021 Armorama and Kitmaker Network, a subsidiary of Silver Star Enterprises
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.