i just finshed my king tiger with tamiya paints now i need to wash it. my question is do i use a an acrylic or enamel gloss coat because i am useing artist oil for the wash and what about after i wash which do i use for a flat coat to seal and dull the gloss coat i have read a lot about this topic but it sounds confussing. i paint houses for a living and i was always tought not to use one kind if paint over a diffrent kind like latex over oil and vice a verse . just want to this right the first time i have a lot of time in the paint and i dont want to srew it up. just wnted someone to tell me which one is the right way to do this.
thanks guys Landon
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i have a question about washes
landon
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 03:16 PM UTC
AJLaFleche
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 03:42 PM UTC
Most acrylics don't work well as a wash. Apply a very dilute (at least 9:1 thinner to paint) wash in the recesses and around raised detail. Oils or enamels work well for this. Don't drag your brush. Let capilary action draw the paint into the darker areas.
jazza
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 06:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Most acrylics don't work well as a wash. Apply a very dilute (at least 9:1 thinner to paint) wash in the recesses and around raised detail. Oils or enamels work well for this. Don't drag your brush. Let capilary action draw the paint into the darker areas.
I personally agree with Al LaFleche on this one. I prefer to use Oil as they are easy to wipe off when washing your model. The mistake i made however was not thinning the oil when applying the wash. If you are not careful like myself, your wash my have blogs of paint as the brush tip is still flooded with paint despite several attempts to dry it. Thinning it will at least make the capilary action more effective.
Tiger314
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 09:10 PM UTC
Hi,
Use Tamiya X22 Clear on the acrylics, let it dry for 24 hrs. and after the wash, seal with Gunze H20 flat clear.
Use Tamiya X22 Clear on the acrylics, let it dry for 24 hrs. and after the wash, seal with Gunze H20 flat clear.
blackeast19
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 09:49 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi,
Use Tamiya X22 Clear on the acrylics, let it dry for 24 hrs. and after the wash, seal with Gunze H20 flat clear.
Hi,
I also used X22 (Tamiya), but to flatten the gloss, I would use Dull Cote (Testors).
Cheers!
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 10:01 PM UTC
Yes, I second Franks suggestion, use a clear gloss before you apply your wash, it will flow better into the nooks and crannies, and settle in the recesses. While you got the clear coat on, apply your decals. Then flat coat afterward.
Tamyia Gloss is good, so is Future. BUT DO NOT CONFUSE OR THINK TAMYIA FLAT IS A FLAT COAT---- IT"S NOT----- IT WILL TURN YOUR MODEL WHITE-----
It's a flat base, made to be mixed with GLOSS to make it flat.
Although I use mainly enamels, I have never experienced any problems using acrylics over enamels, or enamels over acrylics. The problems arise from not letting your previous coats totally dry and cure. Just because they are dry to the touch, doesn't mean they have cured.
You didn't say whether you airbrushed or brush painted. But for the gloss coat, if you use Future, you can either airbrush it, (does not need thinning) or brush paint it, without problems. (Self-leveling)
Tamyia Gloss is good, so is Future. BUT DO NOT CONFUSE OR THINK TAMYIA FLAT IS A FLAT COAT---- IT"S NOT----- IT WILL TURN YOUR MODEL WHITE-----
It's a flat base, made to be mixed with GLOSS to make it flat.
Although I use mainly enamels, I have never experienced any problems using acrylics over enamels, or enamels over acrylics. The problems arise from not letting your previous coats totally dry and cure. Just because they are dry to the touch, doesn't mean they have cured.
You didn't say whether you airbrushed or brush painted. But for the gloss coat, if you use Future, you can either airbrush it, (does not need thinning) or brush paint it, without problems. (Self-leveling)
Tiger314
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 11:40 PM UTC
OK!
Dave thank you for mentioning the "flatbase pitfall"!
Be careful with that stuff, flatening gloss varnish (Tamiya clear X22) with flatbase is a rather tricky and difficult task.
Don't get me wrong, the really important colors on your desk are: Black, white, X19 smoke and: Flatbase! The first two for mixing, toning down and creating different shades of a base color. Smoke for nearly everything (too many purposes to mention), and flatbase to create different kinds of finished surfaces.
But you have to add it very careful to any color since it works out dramatically while on the model.
If you're interested I would provide you some pics to underline my words... .
greetings from Germany
Frank
Dave thank you for mentioning the "flatbase pitfall"!
Be careful with that stuff, flatening gloss varnish (Tamiya clear X22) with flatbase is a rather tricky and difficult task.
Don't get me wrong, the really important colors on your desk are: Black, white, X19 smoke and: Flatbase! The first two for mixing, toning down and creating different shades of a base color. Smoke for nearly everything (too many purposes to mention), and flatbase to create different kinds of finished surfaces.
But you have to add it very careful to any color since it works out dramatically while on the model.
If you're interested I would provide you some pics to underline my words... .
greetings from Germany
Frank
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Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 11:59 PM UTC
That flat base is excellent for mixing with future! I can get very good results even with a brush. 10 parts future to 2 parts flat base makes a nice flattish coat that still brushes on well. Adding more flat makes it difficult to brush on; It likes to leave white marks so flatter mixes are probably bes airbrushed.
Sticky
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Posted: Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 01:48 AM UTC
Here is the rule of thumb in plain easy steps.
If you paint the kit in oils, then use an oil gloss coat and wash in acrylics. If you paint the kit in acrylics, use an acrylic gloss coat and wash with oils/enamels.
In model finishing as long as the previous layer has had 24 hours to cure, its ok to overcoat one media type with another.
I beleive that was your question.
If you paint the kit in oils, then use an oil gloss coat and wash in acrylics. If you paint the kit in acrylics, use an acrylic gloss coat and wash with oils/enamels.
In model finishing as long as the previous layer has had 24 hours to cure, its ok to overcoat one media type with another.
I beleive that was your question.
KellyZak
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Posted: Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 02:10 AM UTC
I use artist oils for washes on all of my stuff. Be it lacquer, or acryllics. I found a thinner that does not eat any of these (not sure about enamel) But at Michaels Craft Stores, they sell a thinner/brush cleaner called "Better Way", it has no smell, and is non toxic. Me being a "dirty" armour modeller, I slap a wash all over the whole vehicle, with out a gloss coat before hand, I just don't see the advantage in it (tried it once, I didn't really notice a heck of a difference)
If the wash dries a little glossy, just add a couple light coats of MM Clear Flat from the rattle can.
We have all of our own ways of doing the wash thing, so it's best to experiment until you find your own favorite way.
And yes, watch out for the Tamiya Flat Base....I found out the hard way once!!
If the wash dries a little glossy, just add a couple light coats of MM Clear Flat from the rattle can.
We have all of our own ways of doing the wash thing, so it's best to experiment until you find your own favorite way.
And yes, watch out for the Tamiya Flat Base....I found out the hard way once!!
landon
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Posted: Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 08:32 AM UTC
Thanks guys for the info that is just what i needed to know . i air brushed my king tiger i painted in ambush camo pattern butt it look to new i was thinking about washing the whole tank to try and tone down the pant what do you guys think. iam kind of new at this i have spent a lot of nights on here trying to learn new things . i just think that the site is great and thanks again for all the help. i sure wish i new how to post pic so i could show you what iam working on.
Thanks again
Landon
Thanks again
Landon
Clanky44
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Posted: Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 02:09 PM UTC
Not to confuse you any further, but there is another way to wash your model, and considering that you're using Tamiya acrylics, (which is what I use), you'll be guaranted a hassle free finish. Follow these steps...
Gloss your tank and decal it, flat coat it with Polly scale flat coat, diluted by 40% with Tamiya thinner, wait a couple of hours,... Now that you have a matt surface to wash your tank, use tube water colours, I use a mix of sienna and umber and black, thin them down with tap water. Since you have a flat finish the wash will not flow into recesses, you have to apply the wash with a fine tipped brush. The advantage of this technique, is that any excess paint placed on using this wash style, will come off once it's dried, Just grab a thick round fine tipped brush, dip it in water and soak up any excess paint, your underlying surface will not be affected, try it, you'll be surprised. You will never again go back to the headaches involved with using oils!!
Check out my T34 and Tiger in 48th scale at the following site,
www.track48.com
If you have any questions, let me know, and good luck
Frank Portela
Gloss your tank and decal it, flat coat it with Polly scale flat coat, diluted by 40% with Tamiya thinner, wait a couple of hours,... Now that you have a matt surface to wash your tank, use tube water colours, I use a mix of sienna and umber and black, thin them down with tap water. Since you have a flat finish the wash will not flow into recesses, you have to apply the wash with a fine tipped brush. The advantage of this technique, is that any excess paint placed on using this wash style, will come off once it's dried, Just grab a thick round fine tipped brush, dip it in water and soak up any excess paint, your underlying surface will not be affected, try it, you'll be surprised. You will never again go back to the headaches involved with using oils!!
Check out my T34 and Tiger in 48th scale at the following site,
www.track48.com
If you have any questions, let me know, and good luck
Frank Portela
jazza
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Posted: Friday, September 16, 2005 - 02:45 AM UTC
Would you guys recommend airbrushing the gloss coat or paint brushing it?
Marty
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Posted: Friday, September 16, 2005 - 02:59 AM UTC
I would recommend that you airbrush it. That way you are ensured of not having any brush strokes.