Hello Armorama. ^^
Just started on modeling armor - currently working on Tamiya's old M3 Stuart kit. (*yes, the one with the track end connectors at the wrong places. ^^)
Would like to ask on how to "heat weld" the tracks. As I picture it, I think I need to melt off the attaching pegs to close the tracks. I find the instructions pretty obscure though...
It said "to use a heated screwdriver", but I'm still perplexed..Anyone?
Thanks for reading and Thanks in advance. ^_^
Hosted by Darren Baker
Heat Welding vinyl tracks
lonewolf
Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 03:26 AM UTC
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 03:33 AM UTC
It takes some practice (I've ruined a few kits myself) but whatever you do, don't melt the pins down level. The whole point if to melt it down slow so that it forms a mushroom shape. THe fat head of the mushroom is what keeps the pin from falling out of the holes.
keenan
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 03:40 AM UTC
I put the pins through the holes and heat the pins until they just start to "swell" and then mash them flat with my finger. It does take some practice. Like Alan said, the object is to get the pin to act as a rivet holding the track together through the round hole.
Sort of hard to explain...
Shaun
Sort of hard to explain...
Shaun
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 04:31 AM UTC
A better technigue is to cut the pins flush with the track when assembled and glue them together with Superglue. It will hold strong and not look like track that has melted pins sticking out of it. I never use the old heated screwdriver method. It is sloppy and never really looks good to me.
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 04:41 AM UTC
There are a few kits still out there which are not easily gluable,and require heat welding.
What I do is:
1 I have a pin vise with a large and small opening in either end.
2. I put a small headed nail in the larger opening.
3. I heat the head of the nail until it is very hot,usually with a candle.
4.I prepostion the track pins into the holes.
5.I remove the nail from the heat and actually let it cool a bit,then smash down on the pins.
I pause,and remove it from the track.
This will usually gives a smooth, near flush connection.
(++) (++)
What I do is:
1 I have a pin vise with a large and small opening in either end.
2. I put a small headed nail in the larger opening.
3. I heat the head of the nail until it is very hot,usually with a candle.
4.I prepostion the track pins into the holes.
5.I remove the nail from the heat and actually let it cool a bit,then smash down on the pins.
I pause,and remove it from the track.
This will usually gives a smooth, near flush connection.
(++) (++)
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 04:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
There are a few kits still out there which are not easily gluable,and require heat welding.
Interesting, I haven't had a one yet that doesn't hold with superglue. Some have required a little pressure with a clothes pin to hold it while setting, but all hold once set.
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 04:54 AM UTC
Rats! I've been doing it wrong all these years! I just stick a small jewellers screwdriver on the gas ring until it's JUST hot enough, then carefully press down on the pins. Only takes about 30 years of practice, don't worry! Then "hide" the join behind a return roller or schurtzen!