Jim has somehow found time during his move to post a few shots of my DML T26E3 Pershing in progress:

DML T26E3

The shots show a few of the changes and modifications I made to the kit. I used the Eduard M26A1 photoetch set for some of the details and made a few of my own. The mantlet cover was made with strip styrene and Milliput. Foundry marks are numbers shaved from sprues. The tow cable ends are from an Academy kit, as are the T tow shackles. Tie-downs are homemade from copper speaker wire on my own jig. The tow cable is made from florist wire.

Since these photos were taken, I've finished the markings and painting. I'm now working on making a base and painting the figures (DML bodies with Warriors heads). I'll post some more pics when it's all finished.

Hollowpoint:

Thanks for the post and pics as I've always been partial to the Pershing (I've built two myself), but not as nice as yours.

The mantlet cover is really really well done. I've never tried milliput, but I'm going to give it a try after seeing your work here, (sure beats my "tissue paper" and white glue canvas covers).

The tow cable work really looks authentic, (thanks for the idea as the florist wire results in a great looking cable).

Nice job on the foundry numbers also.

Great work!!!!!

Way to go Bob...really looks good so far ...I love your dust cover ,it really looks the part..Keep sending those pictures ...Can't wait to see it finished!

Richard

Man oh man, what a beauty she is! I love the added details you added to the kit. I'm going to echo WeWill on the tow cable.
Those casting numbers are great! Where did you get the little circled "H"? From a sprue?

Thanks for the compliments, guys.

I've been playing with Milliput for a number of years. I built up underneath with some scrap sprue, then put the Milliput on top. The trick is having a reference photo to check, then sculpting with a wet round toothpick. I've also done covers with tissue, but I thought this one may be a bit tricky, so chose to go with the putty.

Ken: The "Circle K" foundry mark came off the accessory sprue from an Academy M-10. If you look at the first photo in the series, you may see the dark specks on the rear of the turret top -- these are also foundry marks. The Academy sprue has lots of goodies on it -- hex heads, wingnuts (looking much better than photoetch!), buckles, and lots of numbers, letters and a few hexed and circled letters. The small numbers and letters are off Tamiya sprues -- I like them because they are sharp and thick enough to withstand the shaving and cementing.

Any other questions?

Bob--beautiful workmanship as always. I am in the midst of finishing the Tamiya M-26. I built and thoroughly enjoed the T-26. I have not yet painted mine and wanted to know what type OD paint you applied.
thanks

DJ:

I've always liked the color of Model Masters Olive Drab. Most of it is sprayed right out of a rattle can, but as you can see by a few stray brush marks, I painted the insides of the side skirts by hand, leaving an unpainted strip for gluing.

BTW, the stars are Archer transfers -- wonderful stuff and I WANT MORE! -- but I ended up using the kit decals for the stencils on the side skirts (not shown in these photos). I didn't like the DML decals -- thought they went on a bit thick. I made my own "LIFT HERE" markings with transfers off a Verlinden sheet because the DML kit only gives three of these decals and you need four.

I'm not a big fan of airbrushes, so I use lots of rattle-can paint. I finished weathering this tank with oils and a bit of graphite -- it all comes together to make it look like a hunk of heavy iron.

It definitely has a different look than all the pre-shaded, post-shaded, paint-chipped models that seem to be so prevalent these days. I like it and that's all that matters. I'll have more photos soon.

It's not perfect, but the tank by itself did well enough to take a silver medal at the Nebraska AMPS contest a couple months ago. I'm still finishing the figures (TC, loader and driver) and the base.

I picked up a DML M26A1 at the AMPS contest, so I'll be building that one as a USMC tank in Korea -- with those nice DML Chosin Reservior figures fighting alongside.

Bob--many thanks. I have the hull together and will prime her with flat black tonight. The challenge to be met is placing the skirts on ad then the track. Did you do it this way or did you put the tracks on and the skirt?
thanks

Tracks first, then skirts. Remember: the DML kit has indy-link tracks -- I don't know how I could have done it any other way. As a matter of fact, the whole lower hull was completed and base painted, then came the indy-link tracks, then came the whole upper hull ... the skirts were one of the last things I added (which is why their inside faces were brush-painted).

Bob--the Tamiya kit has the vinyl which simplifies the problem somewhat. I just do not want to screw up the paint job with the glue putting the skirt on her. I'll play with it tonight.
thanks

Great job. In particulat, the canvas cover for the gun mantlet is a great idea and well executed. The enhances casting numbers also show great attention to detail. All of your additions are warranted and well done.
Look forward to seeing the final product,
Andrew