I just started building tanks and other tracked vehicle, and I ran into some problems. Some I could sort out by myself (by making some big, ugly mistakes), but some are still, well, problematic. So I kept thinking and here are some likely problems that I can think of. Opinions?

I just realized that assembling the individual track links to the required form is much, much easier before joining the two halves of the chassis (and you install them after you finished the kit).
I found out that for the one-piece tracks, like the ones given with the Trumpeter M1A1 can only be painted by enamels.
But: how do you install them? If you join the two halves together, you have to stretch them over the wheels. This is problematic because
1. the paint will crack (How do you paint a rubber track, anyway? Same method of black base, rust, drybrush? Before or after the installation?)
2. the wheels might give in. (My 1/72 Dragon T-34's idlers broke because of the tracks were too tight. I have never read anything about this particular kit that it's a problem, so obviously I messed up something. This would be more noticable in a 1/34 kit.)
If you join the two ends of the tracks on the kit, it's problematic too, because
1. the paint still can crack
2. although you can give it some slack by leaving it a bit longer as you install it, you still put a lot of force onto the plastic wheels and suspension bars. And you have to do it in a very confided space (the chassis should be joined, painted, weathered, the wheels installed - in other words, the tank finished) -and in many cases you have to melt the pins holding the tracks together in a not very forgiving environment, filled up with carefully painted, weathered and drybrushed meltable plastic... but using glue, and keeping the halves together while setting can be tricky too..

The indvidual tracks seem to be a bit harder... I guess you pre-form the required shape of the track in parts, let the glue dry, then set the ready tracks aside for painting...

When exactly do you put the tracks on,anyway? I presume it's the very last step, but I can be wrong - after all it's kind of hard when the upper part of the tank obstructs everything...

So please, give me some advice how to work with either types - I've read a lot about armor modelling online, but aside from the "and I installed the tracks" I haven't found any answers...


(Right now I build the affortmentioned M1A1 purely for practice reasons: camo patterns, masking, weathering and track-building. Trumpeter gave both types of tracks, so one side will be rubber the other side will be individual linked... the best 10 bucks I spent on a learning curve)

I have never had an issue with cracking paint on rubberband tracks. I hot pin them together, wash with soapy water to remove the fingergrease and plastic oils, spray on the paint while hanging from toothpicl on a homemade stand. Even the notorious Italeri Sherman tracks have never given me trouble.

As for indi-links, I leave the sproket and idler unglued. After you shap your track around the sprocket and idler you take everything off. Wash and spray the tracks just like the rubberbands. Fit the sprocket first the the idler and slip everything back on. Connect the two ends on the bottom of the tank. I've done a lot of Shermans this way and can get them done rather quickly. Don't know if it will work with other tanks.

I paint all my track before installing them on the model. I've found it impossible to get all the track painted after installation.
For rubber bands, I leave the drive sprocket or return roller loose.....place the track over the wheels....then fit the sprocket and/or return roller in place last. Also, I check the fit of the track prior to painting just to make sure it will all fit.
Individual links are more difficult (for me at least).
I actually dread them each and every time, but have found a way, with suggestions from others, to make them somewhat liveable. After fitting all the wheels on the model, I assemble the track in sections. I only glue the track links to each other at this point, not to any of the wheels/sprocket/rollers. First is the curves around the drive sprocket and one around the return roller. Then the straight sections, assembled off the model, for the top and bottom run. Lastly, I tack the curved pieces and straight pieces in place with tiny dabs of white glue and then make short curved sections to connect them. When they're dry, remove and paint....then do the final assembly after weathering the model, only now cementing the track to the wheels.
I know it sounds like a long drawn out process, but it's the only way I've been able to do indy links with any sort of success. I still have problems with the last few links mating correctly sometimes, though.

For Rubber Band tracks as well, if I am not in a rush with the model, I will put them on the primed, but unfinished suspension, and let them sit a bit. This start to mold them to the shape, to remove part of their old memory, and establish a new one. This can also be sped up by using a hair dryer. Then, as said above, I wash and paint them off the vehicle.

I can tell when it is successful by laying the track on it's side, and the natural curl of it is reminiscent of the suspension of the kit.

Jed

I have made one set of rubber bands, one set of Fruil metal and about to start a set of indy links.

Rubber bands were easy, I painted them then mounted them on the tank, I glued the ends together. I then weathered them.

Fruil metal tracks I used these instructions:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/95064/message/1094808492/Friulmodel+track+assembly++%26gt%3B+step+by+step

For indy links I will be using the first one below:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/84

http://figures.armorama.com//features/127[/url]

http://users.pandora.be/ronny.noben/website/tips/tracks.htm

The rubber bands I put on my Crusader could not go on last due to the dust skirts. I painted the lower hull and wheels, then painted the tracks before mounting them. I did not glue the tracks until they were mounted (no need to stretch). Then I mounted the skirts, masked off the wheels and tracks, and finished painting the rest of the tank.

BTW, I am in the same boat as you for Indy's. I am building a DML StuG III. Once the fenders go on it will make the tracks difficult to install due to the sag. I may paint the upper and lower hulls, tracks and fenders all separately and then mount everything, followed by likely lots of touch ups..

Martyn

Update:

Using Bob Lester's indy link technique I have assembled one side with absolutely no problems at all!! quite pleased.

I used white glue to hold the return rollers in place, and as the idler and road wheels were a snug fit I didn't bother gluing them. The sprocket was a loose fit so i put some masking tape on the 'post' that the sprocket fits on to tighten the fit and prevent it coming loose while i did the assembly.

Very pleased. I have the one side all assembled and will take them off, paint everything, tracks, hull, fenders etc, and then put them back on, glue the 2 ends together then install the fenders and upper hull, and then do the weathering.

Bob's technique is not fast, it has taken me.. about 6 hrs to do the one side but 95% of that time was drying time (i am not including the 3-4 hrs to clean up the links). I highly recommend it for first time with indy's.

Martyn

Well, like Alan, I don't suffer from flaking paint on rubber tracks, but I use Humbrol, don't know if that makes any difference. I always try & put as much of the tank together as possible before painting. I hot-join the tracks before painting, then paint them seperately then slip them on last thing. If you're careful, there's usually no problem. Sandshields or enclosing mudguards have to be painted seperately while doing the main colours then put on after the tracks.
I follow the same basic regime with indy tracks, except I will try and assemble them in a workable fashion if possible, this makes it easier to thread them on over the sprockets. They are painted & weathered off the tank, then added last. I might do some added mud or dust, to blend them in with the vehicle or a bit of dry-brushing with steel colour after they go on.