Well I have nearly finished the first kit and have another waiting. It was just a thought that it would be nice to do a cutaway version so as to see all (or most) of the interior.
Has anyone tried this?
I have not seen anything about this here so wondered if anyone has any hints or tips on cutting through the plastic.
There are full sized tanks that have been cutaway, Bovington tank museum have one cut in half. I believe it was done as an excersise by the apprentices some years ago.
I do not want to cut in half entirely but some of the upper structure for viewing purposes.
Any help gratefully appreciated as always.
Thanks
Tony.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Trumpeter T34/85 1 1/6th cutaway ?
tony55
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 08:43 PM UTC
18Bravo
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 08:50 PM UTC
I've never done it, but it seems you could pattern yours after what was done at Bovington. A rotary saw mounted on your Dremel ought to do the job very nicely
What I have done is to make the top turret plate removable, as Tamiya did on their 1/25 Centurion, along with the glacis and engine deck. That might be an option should you decide you really don;t want to cut into a perfectly good model.
What I have done is to make the top turret plate removable, as Tamiya did on their 1/25 Centurion, along with the glacis and engine deck. That might be an option should you decide you really don;t want to cut into a perfectly good model.
ericadeane
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 08:56 PM UTC
I recall seeing a 1/35 Tiger II and either a T-34 or a Sherman in a diorama. The modeller had panels cut from one side only -- this left one entire vantage point showing no cutaways, leaving the appearance of a typical diorama.
When you went around to the other side, you were treated to a surprise. He modelled the German crew in fighting mode (I think the Allied tank was abandoned) and included lighting inside.
The modeller judiciously removed certain panels to show off the interesting features. Not being familiar with the internals of the T-34, try to see if one wall has fewer essential fittings and consider that as an entrance point to the tank hull and turret. Lighting is possible through railroad or doll house supplies -- using fiber optics and tiny bulbs..
I think the 1/16 T-34 is a great for your idea. If it can be done with a cramped 1/35 Tiger II, then your kit should show great results.
Also, if you need some fine panel cutting, use dental floss -- a trick from my aircraft modelling days.
HTH
Roy
When you went around to the other side, you were treated to a surprise. He modelled the German crew in fighting mode (I think the Allied tank was abandoned) and included lighting inside.
The modeller judiciously removed certain panels to show off the interesting features. Not being familiar with the internals of the T-34, try to see if one wall has fewer essential fittings and consider that as an entrance point to the tank hull and turret. Lighting is possible through railroad or doll house supplies -- using fiber optics and tiny bulbs..
I think the 1/16 T-34 is a great for your idea. If it can be done with a cramped 1/35 Tiger II, then your kit should show great results.
Also, if you need some fine panel cutting, use dental floss -- a trick from my aircraft modelling days.
HTH
Roy
tony55
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 20, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 09:06 PM UTC
Thank you chaps. I had never thought of dental flos! Good idea.
As for chopping up a kit I really see the idea as similar to the one at Bovington. Cut away and having the edges painted red to stand out.
Still toying with the idea though so any more input welcome.
Cheers
Tony.
As for chopping up a kit I really see the idea as similar to the one at Bovington. Cut away and having the edges painted red to stand out.
Still toying with the idea though so any more input welcome.
Cheers
Tony.
Byrden
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 09:10 PM UTC
If you cut a tank open like this, you will have a new problem to worry about: the thickness of the plastic may not match the scale thickness of the real armour.
David
David
18Bravo
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Posted: Monday, February 13, 2006 - 09:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank you chaps. I had never thought of dental flos! Good idea.
Cheers
Tony.
The dental floss works very well if you want to remove doors or panels without destroying neighboring detail,where very fine cuts are required . RE the car in my gallery, with doors, hood, and trunk removed. It'd be rather tedious for your project, although it would work. Kind of like using a spoon to dig out a fighting position.
tony55
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, February 13, 2006 - 11:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
If you cut a tank open like this, you will have a new problem to worry about: the thickness of the plastic may not match the scale thickness of the real armour.
David
Thanks for all the reply's. I had not thought about the thickness of the plastic. That could present a problem.
More thinking to do
Tony
Posted: Monday, February 13, 2006 - 11:49 PM UTC
Hi Tony
many ,many years ago I "cut away" the Tamiya 1/25 Tiger and a 1/24 Bandi Jagdpanther all I had was a razor saw and a scaple
I was quite impressed at the time but now!!!
the thickness of the plastic does play a major part in the finished look.
Andy
PS dont build it first!!!!!!
many ,many years ago I "cut away" the Tamiya 1/25 Tiger and a 1/24 Bandi Jagdpanther all I had was a razor saw and a scaple
I was quite impressed at the time but now!!!
the thickness of the plastic does play a major part in the finished look.
Andy
PS dont build it first!!!!!!
tony55
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 20, 2005
KitMaker: 346 posts
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Joined: July 20, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 10:47 PM UTC
Just been checking the unbuilt model and it's about 1 - 1.5 mm thick. I think I would need 3 mm at least to make it approximately accurate.
I could always add along the cut with evergreen to thicken it up of course, just thinking out loud here, or go for panel lines as suggested.
Be a shame to start hacking away and screw it up though. Mind you, if I got it right it would look pretty cool.
Decision etc
Andy, do you have a pic of your old tank cutaway?
Cheers
Tony.
I could always add along the cut with evergreen to thicken it up of course, just thinking out loud here, or go for panel lines as suggested.
Be a shame to start hacking away and screw it up though. Mind you, if I got it right it would look pretty cool.
Decision etc
Andy, do you have a pic of your old tank cutaway?
Cheers
Tony.
Posted: Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 01:08 AM UTC
Hi Tony
Sorry mate, no pics,don't even know where they are now,probably in my mums loft!!! It was about 23 years since I built them!!
Andy
Sorry mate, no pics,don't even know where they are now,probably in my mums loft!!! It was about 23 years since I built them!!
Andy