hello
can anyone tell me if the revell M-109A3 is the same mold of Italeri?
what do i have to change to make an M-109A2?

thanks
Daniel F
www.bancadademodelismo.no.sapo.pt

Yes, the Revell M019A3 is a reboxed Italeri model, with different decals. No changes are needed for an M109A2. An A3 was simply a rebuilt A1 to A2 standards. An A2 was a totally new build to A2 standards. They are virtually the same vehicle. Hope that makes sense. Here is more info on the M109 and it development.

thanks very much for the quick answer.

Daniel F.
www.bancadademodelismo.no.sapo.pt

In fact there is a difference between Revell and Italeri kiits, the Revell one has the correct Diehl tracks for the German version, and the Italeri has the US style ones....

cheers

yes, i have the german version and i want to make the portuguese version, that i think is iqual to USA army

Yes, to make an accurate A2 or A3 (actually, anything past an A1 version) you would need to remove the crescent -shaped air hose cover just in front of the turret ring on the hull. It is part of an air system used for inflating a flotation ring that never worked well and was removed. That is pretty major surgery though. To make it less noticable, all you need to do is leave the two end pieces with the air connectors off of it and shave down the ends and/or sand down the whole crescent a little. As to the tracks, Skybow did a set of tracks for M108/M109 howitzers. It is now offered by AFV Club.


Older Skybow boxing:


If you leave off any other German specific parts and switch out the tracks, you will have a good representation of an M109A2/A3.

Good luck.

Re the oxbow shaped cover on top of the hull-
It takes just a little bit of work, and if you're shooting for accuracy, it's gotta go.
The first thing is to fill in the underside with superglue and hit it with some accelerator. It'll set up instantly. You can delete this step if you like, but when removing the cover the plastic will become paper thin . I didn't start using the CA until the fourth one.




The quickest way to remove the cover is with the cylindrical steel cutter that comes with your Dremel. Cut the plastic down until it's just a fingernail's thickness above the surrounding plastic. Take care not to go down too far or you'll have to fill it back with CA. This should take about two minutes. The next step is too finish it off with 400 wet/dry sandpaper. I wrap mine around an old resin radio I use as a sanding block. Next, add bolt heads around where the cover used to be. They'll still be there. Finally, replace air intake detail. You can scratchbuld it or use the PE part from the Royal Models set.



As for the mounting lugs on the lower front of the hull, it didn't much good for crews to remove them, so they'll still be there as well. Replace them with bits of tubing. Aluminum is ideal as that's what they're really made from.

Hey 18Bravo,

Is that the Warriors interior in the hull??

Thanks!

No, this one is scratchbuilt, and in all modesty, is more correct in many areas. I can send you a shot of the Warriors one if you like.

SURE!
If you wouldn't mind, I am planning on using the Warrior's set for a M109 project I want to do.

Thanks!!

I'll post pics here in case anyone else wants to correct the Warriors kit as well

First, the boxlike structures in the rear of the hull (actually just hull insets to accomodate the suspension) are squared off in front on the Warriors kit. In actuality the fronts slope rearward as they go down. The spade lock pedals are cast in but look better if you make them yourself. You might be able to see the Ka-dee coupler springs on mine. On the floor there should be pedal locks as well.

Right Side:





Left Side:





In this pic, the kit blower is missing because I threw it out. It was far too small, and too squared off. I plan on making another like the one in previous post.




The kit is missing smaller fittings as well, like these M16 racks on the left hull. Note correct blower shape.



I believe the kit is also missing the projo storage located in the right front of the compartment. (see other post)

All in all though, it's not a bad set. The blower is the biggest bugaboo. You can use the kit, replace the blower, and add the missing fittings.

For later versions, replace the webbed seats with the boxlike ones that contained the NBC gear. If you're doing a Paladin, delete the seats entirely and add two horizontal projo racks on each side.

One more thing to add: While the kit provides driver's periscopes, it does not provide the locks for them, nor does it provide the hatch lever. See above post-they're the red items.

HTH