Can anyone explain the chipped paint technique using pencil lead?? Thanks in advnace.

Scrub the edge of the pencil lead where you want to show worn paint, as you would if you were in a detective show and you wanted the read the impression left when someone wrote a note on the sheet before the one you see then tore it off. It's that simple.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Have a read on "Chipped Paint Fever"

http://missing-lynx.com/rareworld.htm

Pencil lead marks are only one faced of really replicating chipped paint. How many shiny silver surfaces do you see on the road construction equipment or the banged up truck bumper ahead of you in traffic?

Mig's article is a great tutorial.

Basically, DON'T OVERDO IT!!!

Someone came up with an interesting approach. Paint the black / rust color on first. Sprinkle on some sort of a mask, then after everything dries spray on your color then rub masking material off. Gives a nice speckledlook.

Hows life in Granbury? Are you planning to come to Mesquite show on May 20th?

Actually life is not bad. Things at the store are a little slow but that is to be expected considering its location. I moved to South Ft. Worth last week and I am getting settled. The best change to my life style is a transition from 50-55 hrs. per week to 40!!!!! It seems that my employer was being sued for violating overtime regulations and had to change their policy or loose big time in court. Woo - hoo more time for the things I enjoy!!!!

I found an interesting way to do chipped paint fairly easily. Assuming you're working on armor and want to expose metal, choose the area you want the paint to look chipped. Then, paint the area with "Steel", "Aluminum", or such. Either use enamel or acrylic first. If you use enamel, paint your color coat with acrylic. IF you paint your metal color with acrylic, make your color coat out of enamel. The two types of paint never really stick too well. If you want, you can sprinkle a bit of salt to the color coat in the area you want to look chipped. Then, when all is thoroughly dry (in a day or so), take a scotch brite pad, and gently scuff the area to expose the metal under-color. Just dont press to hard on the scotch brite pad or you'll go through the metal too.

Builders of Japanese WW2 aircraft have a method quite like yours Gary. The exposed duraluminum from paint wearing off of their aircraft are one of the most striking features on WW2 equipment, IMHO.

However, I would posit that the realism of chipped paint for 1/35 AFVs is not the pattern of paint removal but the actual color of exposed metal underneath. Unless you're scratching an aluminum M113 APC hull, the high carbon content of armor plate oxidizes almost immediately (unless it's a point of constant wear like a hatch edge or a handle of some sort). Dark brown or black is a good choice for 1/35 oxidized armor, in my honest opinion.

Again, reading through Mig's article is very compelling

Greetings all,

I've been trying a few of the techniques mentioned. The soft lead pencil works well in things like handles that might get worn.

The maskol is easier than I thought. Just paint on your base cost black, rust or whatever you want and then dab on little drops of maskol with a nail or some type of pointed object where you want the paint chips.

Let it dry and paint on your top coat. I had head that it was difficult to remove but I just used the point of my knife to lift it off. Weather the vehicle as you want and the effect is pretty good. If you miss any bits they will just look like paint lifting off the vehicle.

You just need a bit of courage to try it out. I wish I had tried it out earlier.

Hope this helps

Al

I have a different method of producing chipped paint. Same as others mentioned, paint your kit or the area where you want to produce chipped paint with either black or red primer -- I normally use the TAMIYA spray can paints because its easier. Paint over the area with your desired colors. Apply the chips by jabbing the area with a tootpick or anything dipped in Tamiya thin cement. The thin cement will definitely remove the top layer and expose the black/red primer color. You can now re-weather the area with pastel chalks to show age..HTH

Arvin

Thanks for pointing that out Roy. I forgot to mention about weathering the exposed metal for the propper look. Generally, if I am weathering steel, or armor plate, I use actual rust mixed with turpenoid to give a pin wash of the exposed area. You can make your own rust by taking a plain (no soap) SOS pad, immersing it in vinegar, and then soaking it in water. Put it in enough water so the top is exposed. As it begins to rust, flip it over to the other side. Keep doing this for a while until you have some black nasty rusty looking water. You can keep the bottom (the fine black part) as a weathering pigment for exhaust systems, soot, etc. So, take some of that and put it in a jar with some water to keep it black looking. Let the rest dry out, and it will continue to rust. You can then save that as actual rust pigment to make your wash. If I am weathering aluminum, I simply stiple white paint with a stiff brush to simulate the white oxidation that collects on aluminum. Particularly cast aluminum. Ie a transfer case on a HMMWV. After your done weathering your exposed metal, you can continue to weather the rest of the vehicle. It is however up to you. Differant chipped paint has differant characteristics depending on how long ago the paint was chipped. So, use your judgement, and have fun!

Folks,
Thanks for all the advice. I've tried some of these methods with some success not seen anything quite as satisfactory as the picture above. I've tried the pencil on edges and I like it, but I don't think its the effect above and the pencil seems to wear off.

Two questions: what is maskol? And anyone know a good, matt, clear sealer in a spray can? I tried some of the local art shop like for pastels and it left a nasty shiny surface, even though it said matte.

Maskol is a masking medium sold in model stores. I use Krylon Matt spray...works good for me