Hi all,
I have had a few abortive attempts at using photo etch, adding mesh i'm ok at, but thinks like the small tool clamps etc generally end up in the bin. Are there any good online guide to using this stuff.

many thanks
Dean

Dean!

This forum is your ultimate online resource

So what's your problem with PE? Tell some more and see if we can help.

Peter,
Whats my problem?
I recently bought the Tamiya PZIII, Got the ABER etch set because i'm looking to improve a little. The grills were ok( because they are huge), the other stuff was a disaster. the Tool clamps are a 3 part affair, ( do them correctly and they will work) this was the most fiddly think i have ever attempted and took about an hour you complete one, which was bent all shapes and was more or less un usable. Other stuff was ok but, for example, the tool box has a few parts the updatethe appearance, as i glued one piece on another piece would come off etc. This is the sort of stuff. I'm jus t looking for some guidance on using the etch, bending gluing etc.

I have a few photo's of stuff i've done before in my gallery, i want to move on a little.

Many thanks for responding Peter

Dean, you're probably better starting with the simpler sets, such as those by Eduard. For example, their toolclamps are one piece, just fold them and fit them, they don't work, but they can look just as good! As for tool boxes etc..... if you can't solder them, your best bet is to use a very thin almost watery superglue which can be drawn into a joint by capillary action, then immediately using a super glue acivator to 'set' the glue.

Vinnie

I agree with Vinnie, perhaps starting out with a few of the simpler Eduard ZOOM sets, then as you learn to use them, you can move up to the much more detailed sets, and eventually as your skills increase start using the much more fragile, and more details sets.

I've been looking at the Eduard sets, they seem simpler, it just that a local hobby shop stocks Aber set.
I was a little unsure as to whether thin super glue would Capilliary action like normal glue, i tend to use the thicjer stuff because it give more time to position. If the thin super glue behaves like normal glue with regard to capiliary action i'll try that. I just thought that CA would instantly set rather than run under the part.


Thanks Vinnie for the reply ( love the 251/7 BTW)

I don't know the protocol on plugging another forum, but James Tainton (Panzerfaust) over at Planet Armor has an amazing virtual-bench and is probably one of the most skilled photo etch installers I have seen. You can spend MANY hours looking at his different builds as they progress, but off the top of my head the ones to look at are the RSO w/Pak 40, the DML Panzerkampfwagen III/E, some of the 251 seris....oh heck, just about any of them will really get you motivated. I pasted a couple of addresses to get you there. Just what you needed, another "drug" for the modelaholic.


http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/index.php?showforum=9

http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=829

Hi,

Depending on the brand, i personally think that sanding the PE (the contact parts) usually helps the glue to adhere better.

I have tried Voyager, Lion Roar and Eduard. With Voyager, it's amazing the layers that can be sanded off. I'm not sure what these 'layers' are called, but sanding them usually helps the contact areas to bond better. Btw, i usually 'wet sand'.

Dean i'am in the same boat . I have tried some of the pe from the Dragon 3-1 one kits. It just goes into the parts box and i use the plastic part instead. It can be frustrating at times. My biggest problem is the glue also.

I know they cost some money but the Hold-n-Fold or whatever other names you can come for them are an excellent tool to have when doing photo etch. They really help with the finer folds that a lot of these sets are reverting to. I bought one at IPMS Nats in '03 and have used it on every project ever since.

I use the medium thickness CA. It usually allows me to get the piece in the area and have it stick. Then I can move it ever so slightly if needed and viola, there you go.

Stick with it if you can. The PE sets are really nice. Although they are not "needed" to make a nice kit, they really can add some nice detail.

When i came across the 3 piece tool clamps in the dragon 3in1, i couldn't even understand hte instructions. Most pe didn't serve.

Then i began wanting ot buy aber and work on a big project so i took out a few things like hte tool clamps of dragons pz IV E and got them perfectly in -10 minutes. Those locks are tricky but some superglue will make it work. I guess its practive. I simply used soldier, an x-acto blade, long nose tweexers, smaller eyebrow plucking tweezers and patience.

Also, a "thrid hand" tool is usefull when soldering parts or glueing them as you do not have to hold them in your hands and they are magnified.

I like soldier better... comes out cheaper than glue

Frank :-)

Dean you have my sympathy! I've been using Aber photo etch for a few years now and always used super glue. I've just started to try my hand at solder and seem to be having problems with that, I'm very good at burning my fingers and work bench now though.


Paul.

http://www.bsbit.co.uk/models/kt2.html#misc
Go to the right an select aber tool clamps.

Should help

Frank

Hi,

Lately I have expriemented with soldering. I have a abber barrel for a 20mm flak 38 I am working on. I used a torch to heat up the parts.... that was a bad idea.... I burned up the flutes on the base of the flash suppessor and actually blew the solder off.

I have had better results with a soldering iron...

Though I will solder some parts..... I think the smaller parts I will still glue.

and also..... just because it is "in the kit" dosen't mean you have to use it.... some parts included in photo etch sets are actually better represented in plastic...

Gray

[edit] I used a Piazzo micro torch..... didn't want you guys thinking I was using a full size blow torch

Dean,
Using pe takes a lot of practice. Starting off with the Aber tool clamps is like going straight to the expert level in pe. Try using the Eduard ones, like Vinnie said, they are much easier to use. I like to use the medium set ca glue, cause it gives you a couple of seconds to get the part set in the right spot. Also it's worth investing in some good small tweezers, and smooth edge needle nose pliers. If you have the money, the hold and fold is also a great investment. Lastly, using two razor blades is also a usefull way of folding those small parts. Good luck, and stick with it, it will get easier!
Brian

I'm new to doing PE and the main thing you gotta have is Patience