Why should we use a primer?
It is important, when using resin/photo etch (PE) updates on our kits to give the paint a uniform surface to adhere to; this is where a primer comes in. Upon completion of a model, the model should be washed with soap and water to remove all the grease and dust that would have built up on it during the build process. If you have built your model OOB, without any resin or PE additions, then I suggest you immerse the model into a bowl of hot, soapy, water (NOT boiling) and swirl it, gently, around, making sure it gets fully immersed in the soapy water.
However, if you have PE on your model, it is advisable to use a soft brush to get at the accumulations of dust around the PE items, this avoiding any breakages.
On large areas, a larger, slightly stiffer brush can be used to speed the process along, just be careful not to stray with it and knock any delicate pieces off the model.
When all the dust etc, has gone, wash any remaining soap off with cold water and set aside to dry for at least 24 hours, but 49 would be better.
As you can see the Arette has some resin additions and because of this I will be priming it with an acrylic primer (in this case Halfords grey primer). This will give the model an overall coat that is the perfect preparation for further painting procedures.
When spraying the primer, make sure not to “flood” the model. It is far better to spray several light coats, allowing each one to dry before spraying the next, than it is to try and cover the model with one coat. One of the most impressive traits this primer has is that it shrinks when drying, so do not worry if you get some paint build up, wait until it is dry and then examine the model, you may find the paint has shrunk enough that it will be unnoticeable.
Another advantage that using a primer gives is that it allows us to see any imperfections in the model and correct them before they would require major remedial work. For instance, we may notice a build up of glue that was invisible before. When you are happy with the results, set the model aside for 24 hours, before moving onto the next step.
When not to use a primer coat.
As I said earlier, it is not always necessary to prime our models; this usually applies to OOB models that are built of injection-moulded plastic only. In this case the uniformity of the material allows us to skip the primer stage. Once construction is finished, wash the model let it dry and then decide what colour you are going to use first.
In the case of the Sdkfz 11, I am going to base coat it with Tamiya hull red. It is a bit dark for an accurate red oxide match, but seeing as most of it will be covered with the top coat of Dark Yellow, that does not matter.
As with the Arette, do not try and cover your model completely in one pass. Instead make several light passes, allowing the paint to build up slowly. Allowing time for each coat to dry. When you are happy with the paint, set it aside to dry for at least 24 hours.
When mixing the Tamiya paint, i used an eye dropper to measure how much paint i was putting in my airbrush. The ratio of paint to thinner was 50/50. When using an eye dropper to transfer paint, coat the inside of the eye dropper with some thinners and this will make it easier to clean afterwards.
If any one has any questions i will do my best to answer them. Part two of this article will be posted next weekend.
Regards from the Swamp
Hawkeye
