...I plan on building Tamiya's ancient kit, the KV1 Type C. I really wanna' go balls out with some different weatherin' techniques! I'm gonna' be airbrushin' the base and highlight colours, usin' Tamiya's acrylics, and then applyin' some Future Klear. I would like to know, what you guys suggest is the safest mix for an oil wash over the Klear, without leavin' any hard edged dryin' marks, ie oil + turps? or Enamel thinner? I plan on usin' some filters, as well as the customary washes! I've heard that turpentine can leave cloudy, white marks! Thanks!

Can't speak for the Future/Klear factor... but I prefer using Humbrol thinners (the one in the square bottle) for oil washes.

What paint will you be using for your filter? Tamiya? If so then go for the Tamiya Thinners (X-22A I think it is?)

HTH

Rudi

Hi Paul,
There are many threads and articles on this topic over in the painting forum. It a pretty common question, and we all develop our own, what works for me ways.

I simply suggest making sure your oils are of artist grade, not student grade. (the pigment is ground finer, and they cost more)
I just use plain old hardware store mineral spirits, which I believe is called white spirits your side of the pond.

I have to agree with the recommendation that Rudi made, because although white spirit can certainly be used and is far cheaper than Humbrol thinners, it is worth the expense of using their product, which can also be bought in a bigger sized tin.
The humbrol material dries faster, is less likely to cause blistering by attacking the base coat and also isa less likely to attack the finer details on your model, I have had it happen, where if you have a small gap in the glue it eats that which is attached to the componant and makes it brittle and liable to fall off.
The humbrol thinners is also less likely to fill the room with fumes which are the strong smell too.

However it is down to personal choice.

Hope this helps,

John

Another alternative is artificial turpenoid. I prefer this to mineral spirits because it is far less "hot," so there are no fears of it reacting with the basecoat, even if it is used over enamels (fully cured). Advantages it has over Humbrol or other model line thinners are cost (available in bulk at art supply stores) and the fact it is completely odor-free (the stuff smells like water). Artificial turpenoid is designed to thin oils, so it is just strong enough for this purpose. The others are designed to thin enamels, which makes them stronger than they need to be to thin oils.
I, too recommend the artist quality oils; they will last for years so that makes the initial investment a little more palatable.

Edited to add: If you choose this route, make sure you get the artificial and NOT the natural type of turpenoid. The latter has a bad habit of practically never drying.

That's the BLUE can vs the GREEN can.....

Yep I made that mistake! Used the green stuff and it made a right mess of the paint job and I still don't think its dried after 2 years. :-)

Just glad I was smart enough to try it out on an old model first.

Dave is right about that.
I actually like to use the cheaper ones for mud / dirt weathering. The chunkyness make a better staining effect (IMHO).
You need the finer oils for rust and petroleum stains.

Good Luck
N E O

Another option for an oil wash is to use Zippo lighter fluid. Doesn't attack anything, dries quickly, and leaves no hate marks.

I tend to switch around depending on the effect I wish to try, between turpentine, zippo fluid, or another.

Jed