Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
FEATURE
Making Realistic Tarps!
Muggsyguy
Joined: March 21, 2010
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 06:29 PM UTC
Looks like Im last one to this party. Found stuff called Elmers Squeez N Caulk.Works great 5 bucks at Ace Hdw.
ElRata
Joined: March 01, 2009
KitMaker: 6 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 08:14 PM UTC
Polycell sounds like equivalent of acrylic paste in europe, used in drywall jobs and all kinds of seem filling operations indoors. Its paintable and dryes allmost siliconlike rubbery consistency. Awesome article, have to try it soon..
metooshelah
#011
Joined: February 06, 2009
KitMaker: 1,507 posts
Armorama: 1,304 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 08:45 PM UTC
superb! and to think that only yesterday i have started thinking on adding one to my M18! 
kriegsketten
Vendor
Joined: November 12, 2007
KitMaker: 283 posts
Armorama: 177 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 02:40 AM UTC
Great article! And wow, this is the first time reading it! Has anyone tried making a tarp for a truck? I'm wondering if a "rope" could be inserted on the rear end (plenty of folds there). Can't wait to try the technique out!
CMOT
Editor-in-Chief
Joined: May 14, 2006
KitMaker: 10,954 posts
Armorama: 8,571 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 04:11 AM UTC
Caulk and Silicone sealant are not the same beast, You want I believe the silicone sealant,
Namabiiru
Associate Editor
#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 11:50 AM UTC
This is a great technique and feature--wish I had found it sooner. For the eyelets, I use a small leather punch (about 1-1.5mm dia) to punch out little disks from wine bottle foil, which can then be pricked with a needle after applying to get the hole.
JGriffon
Joined: December 01, 2010
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 46 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 12:22 PM UTC
Outstanding technique, now that's what I call modeling!
Namabiiru
Associate Editor#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 - 02:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Caulk and Silicone sealant are not the same beast, You want I believe the silicone sealant,
Tried this technique for the first time today and, yes, Darren is quite correct that silicone sealer and latex caulk are different, but I don't think he's right about wanting the silicone, rather I think what is called for is 'siliconized' caulk. I saw some on the shelf, but grabbed 100% silicone sealer based on what I read here. The label says it is water clean-up--but it absolutely will not mix with water no matter how much agitation I give it. Headed back to the store tomorrow for some acrylic or latex caulk, which I know from past experience is quite hygroscopic before it cures. I think that will work better for this.
brekinapez
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 - 03:32 AM UTC
Brian,
Your final four words in the article are that you hope it helps. I assure you, it does nothing but help! This is the first guide I have seen that makes it so obvious and simple.
I have to go out and check my garage, as I may have just about everything I need already; haven't been doing this long enough to consider using all my tools outside my modeling room. I am currently working on several softskins (a Tamiya Protze and Horch plus the SdKfz 7/1 Flakvierling, and an Italeri Opel Blitz -- all of who would look sharp covered in tarps.
Thanks so much for that tutorial.
Your final four words in the article are that you hope it helps. I assure you, it does nothing but help! This is the first guide I have seen that makes it so obvious and simple.
I have to go out and check my garage, as I may have just about everything I need already; haven't been doing this long enough to consider using all my tools outside my modeling room. I am currently working on several softskins (a Tamiya Protze and Horch plus the SdKfz 7/1 Flakvierling, and an Italeri Opel Blitz -- all of who would look sharp covered in tarps.
Thanks so much for that tutorial.
amoz02t
#192
Joined: November 25, 2009
KitMaker: 1,383 posts
Armorama: 1,281 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 - 04:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI am curious about the ringlets. When he said use an old PE fret did he mean
1) There is a special PE piece of ringlets or
2) Scratch a ringlet from a piece of PE?
I happend to have an old Fug5 radio fret from Aber and it had a few 'rings' on it. If anyone has any thoughts on where to get more eyelets of this size in bulk I would love to hear. Its possible I could have a fret made commercially by Scalelink that would have hundreds on it, but there would need to be a demand. As tarps are common across several modelling areas (air, ships etc) maybe we could get them interested. Or if there was something else currently unavailable I could add it to the fret to increase demand and commercial viability. Thoughts?
Brian
Another thought is the BRAVO 6 Smoke Grenade set as the pull rings for the grenade pins are small rings of PE.
acebatau
Joined: February 10, 2008
KitMaker: 730 posts
Armorama: 616 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 - 07:43 AM UTC
Nice tips, lovely, thanks
Jay_Antony
Joined: March 18, 2015
KitMaker: 73 posts
Armorama: 63 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 26, 2015 - 03:16 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextI am curious about the ringlets. When he said use an old PE fret did he mean
1) There is a special PE piece of ringlets or
2) Scratch a ringlet from a piece of PE?
I happend to have an old Fug5 radio fret from Aber and it had a few 'rings' on it. If anyone has any thoughts on where to get more eyelets of this size in bulk I would love to hear. Its possible I could have a fret made commercially by Scalelink that would have hundreds on it, but there would need to be a demand. As tarps are common across several modelling areas (air, ships etc) maybe we could get them interested. Or if there was something else currently unavailable I could add it to the fret to increase demand and commercial viability. Thoughts?
Brian
Another thought is the BRAVO 6 Smoke Grenade set as the pull rings for the grenade pins are small rings of PE.
Good source is the Royal Model 1/35 PE eyelet set, here:
http://www.royalmodel.com/en/catalogo_dettaglio.php?PHPSESSID=1q99d1ov5irdmvnp5scd5rmhi1&id_art=168
amoz02t
#192
Joined: November 25, 2009
KitMaker: 1,383 posts
Armorama: 1,281 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 11:34 AM UTC
Anyone tried this with acrylic Gesso in place of the sealer? I mixed water and clear gesso on a glass plate to spread the tissue on. It came out with a kind of smooth texture, but still experimenting here. Just wonder if others have tried? Seems very durable and easy to shape after drying over night
Namabiiru
Associate Editor#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 07:20 PM UTC
Never even heard of Gesso. I'll have to look and see if they have anything like that at the local DIY store.
amoz02t
#192
Joined: November 25, 2009
KitMaker: 1,383 posts
Armorama: 1,281 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 07:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Never even heard of Gesso. I'll have to look and see if they have anything like that at the local DIY store.
The brand I tried was Liquitex medium clear gesso acrylic. It is a paint base and thickener that is available at most art supply places such as Blicks or Hobby Lobby. Many use this for water effects like ripples or wave shapes. If it is thinned with water then it soaks into the tissue for a tarp. My issue was how to carefully get out the wrinkles without tearing when first wetting the tissue. A glass plate seems to help.
Namabiiru
Associate Editor#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 07:39 PM UTC
Might have to give it a try.
I used wax paper as a work surface. Seems to work okay, but you're right; trying to do much with the tarp soon after painting it with your rubberizing medium of choice is tricky work.
I used wax paper as a work surface. Seems to work okay, but you're right; trying to do much with the tarp soon after painting it with your rubberizing medium of choice is tricky work.
Namabiiru
Associate Editor#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 - 05:44 PM UTC
I've found a single tissue gives enough material for many projects.
I have also found that once it is completely dry I can form it into whatever rough shape I want and then paint it with isopropyl alcohol to soften it up enough to be able to precisely tune the shape. Worked like a charm for making a new canvas roof for a quad tractor and a spare tire cover for a scout car.
I have also found that once it is completely dry I can form it into whatever rough shape I want and then paint it with isopropyl alcohol to soften it up enough to be able to precisely tune the shape. Worked like a charm for making a new canvas roof for a quad tractor and a spare tire cover for a scout car.
KurtLaughlin
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Armorama: 2,377 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 22, 2018 - 07:38 AM UTC
Resurrecting this old thread because the final product looks so good. I tried it twice with facial and wrapping tissue but could not get it to work.
Questions for those in the US that got it to work:
1. What exact product did you use?
2. What surface did you use under the tissue when applying the liquid? (I used wax paper.) How do you lift the wet paper off the surface without tearing?
3. How do you dry it? Is it on the surface? How do you keep it from bonding to the surface when dry?
Thanks,
KL
Questions for those in the US that got it to work:
1. What exact product did you use?
2. What surface did you use under the tissue when applying the liquid? (I used wax paper.) How do you lift the wet paper off the surface without tearing?
3. How do you dry it? Is it on the surface? How do you keep it from bonding to the surface when dry?
Thanks,
KL
Halbcl2
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 106 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 22, 2018 - 09:49 AM UTC
Kurt, here's what I do with Vinnie's EXCELLENT technique.
First you must use a good quality smooth tissue - I use the stuff that comes with men's shirts.
The latex I use here in Canada (I'm sure similar stuff is available in USA) is DAP brand Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone. I mix it 50/50 with water to make a very dilute "solution".
I do not apply it on a hard surface. Instead I have a 4" by 6" frame onto which I tape a piece of tissue. Then using a broad 3/4" to 1" wide SOFT brush I wet one side and gently dry it with a small hair dryer, which takes only a minute or two. Repeat on the other side. It is during these first two applications that you are most likely to tear the wet tissue . . . so be careful. I then do two more double sided coats. I'll do a fourth if I plan to cut the tissue into strips for belts, etc as it a little stronger.
The "cloth" takes acrylic paints very well. There are photos of this technique used to make a canvas roof of my Schwimmwagen on Missing-lynx 3 Sept 2018. Good luck . . . you only need it for the first coats.
First you must use a good quality smooth tissue - I use the stuff that comes with men's shirts.
The latex I use here in Canada (I'm sure similar stuff is available in USA) is DAP brand Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone. I mix it 50/50 with water to make a very dilute "solution".
I do not apply it on a hard surface. Instead I have a 4" by 6" frame onto which I tape a piece of tissue. Then using a broad 3/4" to 1" wide SOFT brush I wet one side and gently dry it with a small hair dryer, which takes only a minute or two. Repeat on the other side. It is during these first two applications that you are most likely to tear the wet tissue . . . so be careful. I then do two more double sided coats. I'll do a fourth if I plan to cut the tissue into strips for belts, etc as it a little stronger.
The "cloth" takes acrylic paints very well. There are photos of this technique used to make a canvas roof of my Schwimmwagen on Missing-lynx 3 Sept 2018. Good luck . . . you only need it for the first coats.
KurtLaughlin
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Armorama: 2,377 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 22, 2018 - 04:05 PM UTC
Thanks Tom!
I was thinking of attaching it to a frame. I have been using an acrylic caulk that is listed as "paintable". The small pieces that have survived the previous experiments did seem to be pretty durable, even with just a single coat. I will try this tomorrow.
Thanks,
KL
I was thinking of attaching it to a frame. I have been using an acrylic caulk that is listed as "paintable". The small pieces that have survived the previous experiments did seem to be pretty durable, even with just a single coat. I will try this tomorrow.
Thanks,
KL
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