Henk
Ok I'm in but since this will be completely OOB I'll have to buy something new instead of the Sherman I've been working on for the last six months or so. I'm not complaining since I just bought a Dragon SU-100 from Aftermarket. Don't know if this kit qualifies for this build or not. Sadly, it hasn't arrived just yet so I've haven't seen it. So, Henk do you think this one might meet the requirements or not? Just let me know. If not I'll find something else. Like everyone else here, I suspect, I'm not averse to building up a stockpile of kits
Thanks for the build idea
Mike Lane
Hosted by Darren Baker
'Basic Training' startdate and rollcall
kododu
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 21, 2006 - 07:04 PM UTC
djohannsen
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 21, 2006 - 07:29 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm just glad he doesn't require tube glue.
Hey! Some of us noobs still use Testors tube glue for some parts! I use Tenax 7R and an old paintbrush for long seams, but attach small parts using Testors tube cement applied with a small straightened paper clip. Maybe, if I'm not careful, I'll learn something that works better by particpating in this group build.
Dave
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
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Posted: Monday, August 21, 2006 - 07:52 PM UTC
I'd like to go with Tamiya's 250/9, too. And definately spraying from can -haven't used one yet, anyway. (Weathering is acceptable? Some tear and wear?)
Does anyone know how to acquire a missing part from a kit? It's missing the floor under the driver's seat... (Not that it would be visible, but...)
Does anyone know how to acquire a missing part from a kit? It's missing the floor under the driver's seat... (Not that it would be visible, but...)
Posted: Monday, August 21, 2006 - 09:48 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm just glad he doesn't require tube glue.
Rob, the use of tube glue is optional... :-) :-) .
No, a basic build, but with modern ingredients...
Weathering will be done, but without oil washes, pre-shading, pastels, future, etc, etc. Just basic dry-brushing to bring out the details. No mud build-ups, etc.
Cheers
Henk
WildCard
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Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 01:03 AM UTC
Henk,
When is the ending date for this group build? I take that since this is an OOB it shouldnt take very long. Are we going to have a big gallery of everyone's work?
WC
When is the ending date for this group build? I take that since this is an OOB it shouldnt take very long. Are we going to have a big gallery of everyone's work?
WC
spongya
Associate Editor
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Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 07:02 AM UTC
Are you sure you want this build this basic? I mean the things, as a beginner I had the most problems with: masking canopies (not much better now, hence the switch to armor), properly diluting paint for brush, airbrush, shadings, washes, filters and others. (I'm not saying I mastered them all. I'm still experimenting.) If you make it too basic, you take out most of the used techniques. I don't think people would learn a lot from it. If nothing else is covered apart from using the glue and sandpaper, even newcomers would not benefit too much. (Especially because there would be nothing applied that makes a model realistic. If you just paint the model with 1-3 colors, it will look like painted plastic. Our goal is usually to build realistic models.)
If this is the case, however, the build should be called "First build"...
Otherwise there would be a "tutorial" on most of the commonly used techniques: painting with brush, painting with airbrush, preshade, postshade, etc. These really are the basics everybody needs to master. Every member who's not a beginner, could pick one or two of these and use them in their build. Later on there could be a more advanced build with PE, resin, etc parts, multimedia kits, workable links, whatever.
If this is the case, however, the build should be called "First build"...
Otherwise there would be a "tutorial" on most of the commonly used techniques: painting with brush, painting with airbrush, preshade, postshade, etc. These really are the basics everybody needs to master. Every member who's not a beginner, could pick one or two of these and use them in their build. Later on there could be a more advanced build with PE, resin, etc parts, multimedia kits, workable links, whatever.
Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 08:25 AM UTC
Ben,
There is no real firm finishing date, and I'll look into a gallery.
Andreas,
Part of the exersise is to show people that you can build a nice model, worthy of showing off, with a basic model, and without all the bells and whistles that so many of us take for granted. Many modelers have no idea how to go about a wash, or which, or what oil paint to buy. You don't need to paint a model as if it's been in action for 6 months, has been chipped and weathered to hell and back, it can be just as much of a challenge to build a 'factory fresh' model. Lets be honest, how many of us have covered the running gear in mud to cover up any mistakes or lack of decently painted roadwheel tyres? Oh, that's just me than... :-) .
Cheers
Henk
There is no real firm finishing date, and I'll look into a gallery.
Andreas,
Part of the exersise is to show people that you can build a nice model, worthy of showing off, with a basic model, and without all the bells and whistles that so many of us take for granted. Many modelers have no idea how to go about a wash, or which, or what oil paint to buy. You don't need to paint a model as if it's been in action for 6 months, has been chipped and weathered to hell and back, it can be just as much of a challenge to build a 'factory fresh' model. Lets be honest, how many of us have covered the running gear in mud to cover up any mistakes or lack of decently painted roadwheel tyres? Oh, that's just me than... :-) .
Cheers
Henk
spongya
Associate Editor
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Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 10:17 AM UTC
Most of this stuff is not about making the model look worn. They are simply for modelling "shadows", etc. I was shocked when I tried these for the first time, how much "life" it got into that piece of plastic. Simply by painting "Dark Yellow" it didn't look half as good. (I usually make "factory fresh" vehicles, maybe with a hint of dust and dirt on the underside -because I'm still happy that I can make it lifelike. I really don't like the overchipped, overrusted, overmudded models. Even washes and drybrushing are too harsh sometimes.)
But it's your call. I was just making a suggestion.
But it's your call. I was just making a suggestion.
Tordenskiold
Aarhus, Denmark
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Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 12:33 PM UTC
Don't like it ? - don't join it !
Simple as that :-)
I just hope this one actually finish - unlike the painting classes
Simple as that :-)
I just hope this one actually finish - unlike the painting classes
PvtMutt
Missouri, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 06:31 PM UTC
Henk:
That's the one i've got,Italeri #216 Opel.
I'm almost 64 years old and it's been a very long time
since i've built a model and I wanted to get the feel of all the
new building techniques and materials.
...Tony...
That's the one i've got,Italeri #216 Opel.
I'm almost 64 years old and it's been a very long time
since i've built a model and I wanted to get the feel of all the
new building techniques and materials.
...Tony...
Cyberwombat
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Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 09:25 PM UTC
I've got a bunch of older Tamiya kits of vehicles I did many years ago. Just recently put together a T34/76, and am working on a Gepard - easy, fun builds. So count me in on this one.
I'll probably go with their Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. D, and/or the Italeri M4A1 Sherman (since I haven't done a Sherman yet).
I'll probably go with their Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. D, and/or the Italeri M4A1 Sherman (since I haven't done a Sherman yet).
CWatson
California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 10:10 PM UTC
Some of the methods that should be cover are are how to remove sink marks and ejection pin marks.
CW
CW
Posted: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 12:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Some of the methods that should be cover are are how to remove sink marks and ejection pin marks.
CW
That will most definitely be covered. Basic removal and clean-up of parts from the sprue before construction.
If you feel like lots of practice, I suggest an Italeri kit... :-)
Cheers
Henk
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 12:38 AM UTC
Hi Henk, I dont want to load to much greif on your shoulders but can you clarify if we can use a airbrush if we have one,I have stated before that I am a beginer with this magical piece of apperatus and would only use it for the base colour.
Blade48mrd
Washington, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 12:57 AM UTC
Henk -
Must have been napping when this first came out, but sounds like a fun break from the other 'Campaigns'. I'm doing a Tiger I (Mid) for "MEOW" and a knocked out JagdPanther for "Purple Heart" so wondering if I can squeeze this in. What kind of end time frame are we looking at? I've got a fun looking Tamiya M20 that I think would fit in well for an OOB. I have the M8 as well and this would work well for a trial before going PE and AM on the Greyhound. So if there's time, then count me in also. Great idea,
Blade48mrd
Must have been napping when this first came out, but sounds like a fun break from the other 'Campaigns'. I'm doing a Tiger I (Mid) for "MEOW" and a knocked out JagdPanther for "Purple Heart" so wondering if I can squeeze this in. What kind of end time frame are we looking at? I've got a fun looking Tamiya M20 that I think would fit in well for an OOB. I have the M8 as well and this would work well for a trial before going PE and AM on the Greyhound. So if there's time, then count me in also. Great idea,
Blade48mrd
CWatson
California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 01:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextSome of the methods that should be cover are are how to remove sink marks and ejection pin marks.
CW
That will most definitely be covered. Basic removal and clean-up of parts from the sprue before construction.
If you feel like lots of practice, I suggest an Italeri kit... :-)
Cheers
Henk
Could not be much worse than the Academy M1A1 I am doing now.
CWatson
djohannsen
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 05:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm contacting someone about purchasing the Tamiya Panther G (late version), even as I type. So, barring any unforeseen difficulties, this will be my kit for the build.
My Panther arrived the other day, just in the nick of time. I'm ready to get building whenever you're ready to start, Henk. I'm looking forward to asking some basic questions that I've felt too embarassed to ask in the more general setting and, consequently, to learning a lot.
Dave
old-dragon
Illinois, United States
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Posted: Friday, September 01, 2006 - 08:21 AM UTC
Two questions before I consider tossing my hat in the ring;
1) Will my old Sony 3megapix camera yield decent enough pics?
2)Does it have to be "Land" armor?
1) Will my old Sony 3megapix camera yield decent enough pics?
2)Does it have to be "Land" armor?
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2006 - 06:17 PM UTC
Hi all,
Appologies for not being 'on the ball' yesterday, as usual life interfered and kept me busy chasing and fixing problems... (I spend 20+ minutes on the phone, trying to explain to a driver how to get into a certain farm... he was actualy right outside the gate he had to go in, but didn't twig that... )
Anyways, to answer your question Old Dragon, no,, it does not have to be land armour. Any kit may be used, but the spirit is 'basic', but that can be a plane, or a ship, or anything else. What are you thinking of?
I'm uploading pictures at the moment, and tonight I'll open a new thread, in which I'll post my progress, and explain what I do and why. To avoid it all becoming to cluttered I would like those participating to open their own thread for their pictures, which the can link to in my thread. All question, comments and insults (last one is a joke, ) can of course be asked in my thread.
Till later...
Henk
Appologies for not being 'on the ball' yesterday, as usual life interfered and kept me busy chasing and fixing problems... (I spend 20+ minutes on the phone, trying to explain to a driver how to get into a certain farm... he was actualy right outside the gate he had to go in, but didn't twig that... )
Anyways, to answer your question Old Dragon, no,, it does not have to be land armour. Any kit may be used, but the spirit is 'basic', but that can be a plane, or a ship, or anything else. What are you thinking of?
I'm uploading pictures at the moment, and tonight I'll open a new thread, in which I'll post my progress, and explain what I do and why. To avoid it all becoming to cluttered I would like those participating to open their own thread for their pictures, which the can link to in my thread. All question, comments and insults (last one is a joke, ) can of course be asked in my thread.
Till later...
Henk
old-dragon
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Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2006 - 08:00 AM UTC
Henk, I was thinking the DML #6073 Panzerspahwagen...that one won the coin toss{the Revell LVT-A1 lost}. I had a Skybow Bigshot bag kit in mind, but you did say out of the BOX...
I'll hope the old camera will come thru for me on the new Pen-4 computer here...the old Pen-3 tower croaked along with my firewire board and my usual digicam only loads out on firewire. Spent enough on the new computer already{do you know how many kits I could've bought with that money?!} so no new firewire board for a while... :-)
I'll hope the old camera will come thru for me on the new Pen-4 computer here...the old Pen-3 tower croaked along with my firewire board and my usual digicam only loads out on firewire. Spent enough on the new computer already{do you know how many kits I could've bought with that money?!} so no new firewire board for a while... :-)