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Panther G & Update set
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Posted: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 02:08 PM UTC
Brian Balkwill (Dsotm) takes on the new Dragon ''Smart'' Panther Ausf.G, and includes in his armoury the Cyber Hobby update set.

Panther Ausf.G & CH Update set



If you have comments or questions please post them here.

Thanks!
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 11:20 PM UTC
A very nice informative article Brian.
Nice job on the model also.
Stillhawk
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Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 03:25 AM UTC
Well done, but I have a question about the painting method. Since you put it all together first and mask off the tracks, am I correct in assuming that the area behind the wheels and under the fenders is left primarily black?
Removed by original poster on 09/01/06 - 15:12:32 (GMT).
dsotm
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Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 02:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Well done, but I have a question about the painting method. Since you put it all together first and mask off the tracks, am I correct in assuming that the area behind the wheels and under the fenders is left primarily black?



Thanks Michael

No I was able to reach most of this area with the yellow. I was also dubious about the method but as Vinnie explained "if you can see it you can spray it - if you can't see it, it doesn't matter if you spray it because no one else will see it either". Once everything was sprayed with Nato Black I masked?wrapped off the tracks with a single length of masking tape (effectively all the way round) and sprayed above them to get paint under the sponson. The black base really gets an effective shadow under there. The tape also covers the horns and top/bottom of the rubber rims where they contact the track. I then sprayed the wheels (very low pressure here) with little or no overspray onto the rims. Any minor overspray was touched up with the appropriate colour.

I will definitely use this method in future (unless magic tracks ever become workable), as its much simpler, quicker, and you do not have to do any post shading. On my next build I will take pictures all the way through and detail each step. I did not do it this time round because I was only half convinced about the method and thought I would screw it up! (Sorry Vinnie - you were right)

Brian






jlmurc
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Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 03:22 PM UTC
Congrats Brian for a really good job on the build and the review, hopefull a helpful suggestion not not to criticise the excellent effect but Tamiya Buff or Deck tan, really thinned makes a great dust effect, working carefully as a little goes a long way would add to the contrast. My thoughts only of course.

John
Stillhawk
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Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 06:30 PM UTC
Thanks a lot for the response Brian. I've been terribly impressed with Vinnie's technique but have had my doubts that a mere mortal such as I could pull it off. I've read everything I could find on preshading over the past couple of days getting ready to start spraying a 251/7 that I just finished. I have to say that I still wasn't quite convinced that I should put the wheels and tracks on first, but after reading your helpful explanation I'm going to go for it. Thanks again.

Michael
Achilles958
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Posted: Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 10:52 PM UTC
Thanks! great article and a great looking model, as a newbie to this hobby I have learned alot so thanks again.

One question if I may, what did you use to get the dusty look on the deck and over the decal it looks very realistic.
dsotm
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Posted: Friday, September 01, 2006 - 01:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks! great article and a great looking model, as a newbie to this hobby I have learned alot so thanks again.

One question if I may, what did you use to get the dusty look on the deck and over the decal it looks very realistic.



Thanks Tim
The turret markings are sprayed onto the camo via an Eduard vinyl soft stencil - I use this method 'cos I'm crap at decals . The model was then sealed with Future. Then I washed the entire surface with a thin Burnt Umber/Turpenoid wash - I find this gives the sort of sheen often seen on armour. Then I took Mig Dark Mud pigment and used a blush brush (large soft makeup type) to gently apply it all over the model.

Johns earlier tip of using Tamiya Buff gently misted over the model is also a good way to do this. Instead of Mig pigments you can also use MMP powders which I find are more forgiving (Mig pigments tend to smear if not applied very carefully)

Hope this helps
Brian
tony55
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Posted: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 - 06:42 AM UTC
Brian.
Thanks for the great review. I really like the idea of building the wheels and tracks first and spraying black undercoat. Sounds much easier. I shall give this a go on my next model.
Cheers
Tony
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