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friulmodel metal tracks
pvtone
United States
Joined: February 10, 2003
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Joined: February 10, 2003
KitMaker: 11 posts
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2003 - 01:14 PM UTC
hello i just got my set of metal tracks and i need somehelp there are no directions on how to put them together the only thing i know is one bag is for one side and the other bag is for the other side so if anyone can help me with how to put them together that would be great.i am new to these kits they have out but if someone has put these together and can tell me how i would be greatful thanks Tom
AndersHeintz
Texas, United States
Joined: March 05, 2002
KitMaker: 2,250 posts
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Joined: March 05, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2003 - 01:19 PM UTC
Hola Tom!
I've only done a couple of sets fruil tracks. Only with the old style of clamping the tracks together. Only thing I can add is that one bag has more then needed links so test fit occasionally. Im sure there are a lot of people who can help you with the rest
I've only done a couple of sets fruil tracks. Only with the old style of clamping the tracks together. Only thing I can add is that one bag has more then needed links so test fit occasionally. Im sure there are a lot of people who can help you with the rest
SS-74
Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
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Joined: May 13, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2003 - 01:37 PM UTC
Hi Tom,
I will say the Friultracks is the best and easiest to make AM tracks in my opinion. This is what I do. In the box, there also should be a coil of wires, right? this is for connecting and link each track block.
I first clean them up, by clean them up. I mean I use a drill bits to drill through the hole on the track block. there are about 20% of the track block might be blocked, but it's not hard to do. and takes a little while.
Then Use the wire to link eack track link together. I just push them in and snap off with a wire cutter. and add a tiny drop of CA glue at the end for sure.
Test fit a lot. especially when you get the length of the tracks almost done. If you make it too long, then it's hard to remove the extra track links.
HTH
I will say the Friultracks is the best and easiest to make AM tracks in my opinion. This is what I do. In the box, there also should be a coil of wires, right? this is for connecting and link each track block.
I first clean them up, by clean them up. I mean I use a drill bits to drill through the hole on the track block. there are about 20% of the track block might be blocked, but it's not hard to do. and takes a little while.
Then Use the wire to link eack track link together. I just push them in and snap off with a wire cutter. and add a tiny drop of CA glue at the end for sure.
Test fit a lot. especially when you get the length of the tracks almost done. If you make it too long, then it's hard to remove the extra track links.
HTH
avukich
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 760 posts
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Joined: April 11, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2003 - 01:56 PM UTC
Here is a nice little tutorial: http://hometown-hobbies.com/assembling_friulmodelismo_tracks
Oberst
Ontario, Canada
Joined: June 26, 2002
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Joined: June 26, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2003 - 02:26 PM UTC
Everything that Dave, Adam and Anders said is true.
Also, be sure to trim the excess bits of metal left over from the casting on the sides of the tracks.
Good luck,
Andrew
Also, be sure to trim the excess bits of metal left over from the casting on the sides of the tracks.
Good luck,
Andrew
Kelley
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 1,966 posts
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Joined: November 21, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2003 - 04:49 PM UTC
Tom,
If you go the wire route use a pair of small needle nose pliers to insert them in the track links (this will save your fingers much grief). Also I have found it easier to assemble 10 to 12 links at a time, then assemble the short runs together to make the final track. When you get ready to put them on the vehicle if your model has the idler and or sprocket wheels with the poly caps (like most Tamiya kits) I have found it is easier to connect the ends of the tracks, put them around the road wheels, then put the idler and or sprocket wheels on.
HTH
Mike
If you go the wire route use a pair of small needle nose pliers to insert them in the track links (this will save your fingers much grief). Also I have found it easier to assemble 10 to 12 links at a time, then assemble the short runs together to make the final track. When you get ready to put them on the vehicle if your model has the idler and or sprocket wheels with the poly caps (like most Tamiya kits) I have found it is easier to connect the ends of the tracks, put them around the road wheels, then put the idler and or sprocket wheels on.
HTH
Mike
avukich
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 11, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2003 - 12:28 AM UTC
I second everthing that Kelly just said. That is exactly what I do. I also make a small jig out of balsa wood to ensure that the links stay perfectly straight.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2003 - 01:06 AM UTC
Agree to all. I just use brass wire instead of the supplied wire get about 10 going at once. Yes clean up the little hole first.
Nice tracks when finished
Nice tracks when finished
avukich
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 760 posts
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Joined: April 11, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2003 - 01:19 AM UTC
Jeff--I've heard a couple of people say that they use brass wire instead. Why do you do that out of curiosity? I've never had a problem with the supplied wire and am curious as to why people replace it. Thanks.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2003 - 01:40 AM UTC
Well Adam -- To me it makes it easier and I think that the wire ,Brass is stronger. Just my little Fetish I guess
pipesmoker
Virginia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2002
KitMaker: 649 posts
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Joined: January 31, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2003 - 01:54 AM UTC
Gentlemen,
I have assembled several sets of Fruil track and I find that the following works for me.
Instead of the supplied wire, I use 26ga. floral wire. This shold be available in your local craft store. the kind I get is in a plastic package and about 12/14" long. This is harder than the kit wire. I cut pieces to the length required and use a pair of needle-nose pliers to insert the pins. The act of cutting the wire makes a chisel end on the wire which, if you twist it as you assemble the links, will clean out the small amount of flash that may be present.
The bonus is, that you can twist 3 lengths of the kit wire to make tow cables for your model.
Just another method that works for me.
PS-for what model are the tracks? There are not that many that require "handed" tracks.
I have assembled several sets of Fruil track and I find that the following works for me.
Instead of the supplied wire, I use 26ga. floral wire. This shold be available in your local craft store. the kind I get is in a plastic package and about 12/14" long. This is harder than the kit wire. I cut pieces to the length required and use a pair of needle-nose pliers to insert the pins. The act of cutting the wire makes a chisel end on the wire which, if you twist it as you assemble the links, will clean out the small amount of flash that may be present.
The bonus is, that you can twist 3 lengths of the kit wire to make tow cables for your model.
Just another method that works for me.
PS-for what model are the tracks? There are not that many that require "handed" tracks.
Kelley
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 1,966 posts
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Joined: November 21, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2003 - 03:14 AM UTC
Adam,
I use brass rod sometimes for a couple of reasons. If the tracks are wide (ie. Tiger II battle tracks) the rod does not bend as easily as the wire supplied. Also if you get a size a little bigger than the supplied wire the fit is snug enough that you don't need to glue them.
Mike
I use brass rod sometimes for a couple of reasons. If the tracks are wide (ie. Tiger II battle tracks) the rod does not bend as easily as the wire supplied. Also if you get a size a little bigger than the supplied wire the fit is snug enough that you don't need to glue them.
Mike
Desert-Fox
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: October 22, 2002
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2003 - 04:02 AM UTC
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