Hello all, I have just returned to modeling after a long spell off. My history is almost all aircraft, so modeling armor is fairly new to me.
ANYWAY, I chose the Dragon Tiger 1 initial kit as my first kit to try. I have done fairly well with it, with only a few mistakes, and lost parts. Well I have got to the part where i need to mount the PE stuff, and I have no experiance with PE. I know that i need to use CA to join it, but thats about all I know.
So questions.
1.Whats the best way to bend it? Dragon includes little "templates" on one of there sprues for the tool mounting brackets, but i have had mixed results using it. Will a finger brake type device work better for me?
2. What is the best methode for attatching the parts? My main thought on this is to use thin CA, set the peice in place then use accelerant to dry it. Any other ideas?
3. I remember reading somewhere that "PE is for soldering" i cant find that site again so I figured i would ask here. Is it possible to solder PE parts to other PE parts? If so any advice?
Thanks for any help
AUGie
Hosted by Darren Baker
New to PE Need advice
AUGieDogie
Washington, United States
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Posted: Saturday, November 11, 2006 - 05:02 PM UTC
sauceman
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, November 11, 2006 - 09:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
1.Whats the best way to bend it? Dragon includes little "templates" on one of there sprues for the tool mounting brackets, but i have had mixed results using it. Will a finger brake type device work better for me?
Get yourself one of these....
You will not be able to get he sharp bends like 90 degrees without one.
2. What is the best methode for attatching the parts? My main thought on this is to use thin CA, set the peice in place then use accelerant to dry it. Any other ideas?
Yes CA glue is the easiest especially the gell type. You can also use 5 minute epoxy which give you more fiddlin time before it sets.
3. I remember reading somewhere that "PE is for soldering" i cant find that site again so I figured i would ask here. Is it possible to solder PE parts to other PE parts? If so any advice?
Yes you can solder PE parts, they are mostly made from copper, brass, mild steel or any combination thereof. It's just like soldering wires, just a little less heat to prevent distortion.
AUGieDogie
Washington, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 12, 2006 - 05:12 PM UTC
great, thanks for the advice.
Im going to buy the hold and fold.
and im' going to try and solder some peices'
Im going to buy the hold and fold.
and im' going to try and solder some peices'
ericadeane
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, November 12, 2006 - 11:08 PM UTC
Hi Eric:
If I can interject --- I've had one of the folding tools for a long time. However, because I've recently been only bending smaller detail pieces, I've been finding myself using it less and less. My main tools are locking hemostats (with smooth jaws), needle nose pliers and a screwdriver. Hold the part you want at the seam where you'll bend it, then fold it over using the screwdriver -- that simple. I disagree with the other poster that 90 degree bends aren't possible without a folding tool. They can assist with large parts and sometimes can make it efficient. However, with many small PE parts, I find my simple tools to be extremely quick and efficient.
I spent two full weeks of modelling time adding PE and accurizing the bogies from the DML Flak 36 kit:
I use medium viscosity CA -- don't need accelerator either.
I only solder if I need it to be extremely strong. Such as when I assembled the shields to my 8.8cm Flak 36
Besides these rare occasions, I don't solder. These are shortcuts that have served me well. HTH, Roy
If I can interject --- I've had one of the folding tools for a long time. However, because I've recently been only bending smaller detail pieces, I've been finding myself using it less and less. My main tools are locking hemostats (with smooth jaws), needle nose pliers and a screwdriver. Hold the part you want at the seam where you'll bend it, then fold it over using the screwdriver -- that simple. I disagree with the other poster that 90 degree bends aren't possible without a folding tool. They can assist with large parts and sometimes can make it efficient. However, with many small PE parts, I find my simple tools to be extremely quick and efficient.
I spent two full weeks of modelling time adding PE and accurizing the bogies from the DML Flak 36 kit:
I use medium viscosity CA -- don't need accelerator either.
I only solder if I need it to be extremely strong. Such as when I assembled the shields to my 8.8cm Flak 36
Besides these rare occasions, I don't solder. These are shortcuts that have served me well. HTH, Roy
Gunfighter
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: September 03, 2004
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Posted: Monday, November 13, 2006 - 05:55 PM UTC
Eric,
I consider myself a relative newbie at PE as well. I haven't done anything extremely elaborate, but each time, I try to improve. Here's what's worked for me so far:
- I have the Mission Models Etchmate (their version of the HnF). I find it useful mainly for larger parts. Smaller stuff, like those brackets are more easily done with hand tools IMHO.
- I use a medium viscosity CA. It gives me enough time to place and move the part if needed. I only accelerate on occassion, depending on the type of part it is (such as joining two corners).
I'm working on the same kit right now, but haven't tackled the tool brackets yet, but it's next on the list. I have completed the turret, including the smoke launchers. I used the PE parts, which were a snap. To put the wiring on the back, I ended up using removable double-sided tape on a water bottle cap, placed the wiring harness on that, then shaved down a tooth pick. I bent the wiring over top of the end of the tooth pick with my hobby knife and tweaked a little. I was surprised at how easy it worked out and it looks pretty good too!
- Frank
I consider myself a relative newbie at PE as well. I haven't done anything extremely elaborate, but each time, I try to improve. Here's what's worked for me so far:
- I have the Mission Models Etchmate (their version of the HnF). I find it useful mainly for larger parts. Smaller stuff, like those brackets are more easily done with hand tools IMHO.
- I use a medium viscosity CA. It gives me enough time to place and move the part if needed. I only accelerate on occassion, depending on the type of part it is (such as joining two corners).
I'm working on the same kit right now, but haven't tackled the tool brackets yet, but it's next on the list. I have completed the turret, including the smoke launchers. I used the PE parts, which were a snap. To put the wiring on the back, I ended up using removable double-sided tape on a water bottle cap, placed the wiring harness on that, then shaved down a tooth pick. I bent the wiring over top of the end of the tooth pick with my hobby knife and tweaked a little. I was surprised at how easy it worked out and it looks pretty good too!
- Frank
zokissima
Ontario, Canada
Joined: February 09, 2004
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Posted: Monday, November 13, 2006 - 06:52 PM UTC
I'm fairly new to PE myself, but I'll throw in what little experience I have with it.
Personally, I believe the folding tools to be an overpriced and overhyped piece of equipment, in line with the current 'fad' of fashionable modeling. Granted, they may make life easier in certain circumstances, but are not really worth the money, unless you will constantly be bending large pieces of PE, and decking out every model you plan to build with it.
For the occasional PE user, I think a straight-edge metal ruler, a couple of single-sided razors, a pair or two of good needle-nose pliers and tweezers should suffice. The thing is, these tools should be essential tools for all modeling, and lend themselves just great to PE work.
I use thin CA glue. I'll bend the part, prepare it, test fit it, then grab and hold it with tweezers in a comfortable position. I'll test my motion of fitment so I know exactly what to do and where to put it ,then apply a bit of glue, and stick it on. Dries very quickly in open air, and I don't use accelerator.
Personally, I believe the folding tools to be an overpriced and overhyped piece of equipment, in line with the current 'fad' of fashionable modeling. Granted, they may make life easier in certain circumstances, but are not really worth the money, unless you will constantly be bending large pieces of PE, and decking out every model you plan to build with it.
For the occasional PE user, I think a straight-edge metal ruler, a couple of single-sided razors, a pair or two of good needle-nose pliers and tweezers should suffice. The thing is, these tools should be essential tools for all modeling, and lend themselves just great to PE work.
I use thin CA glue. I'll bend the part, prepare it, test fit it, then grab and hold it with tweezers in a comfortable position. I'll test my motion of fitment so I know exactly what to do and where to put it ,then apply a bit of glue, and stick it on. Dries very quickly in open air, and I don't use accelerator.
AUGieDogie
Washington, United States
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Posted: Monday, November 13, 2006 - 08:02 PM UTC
Great advice guys. I guess i will go out and get a few things suggested here and see if that helps. I have just been using my tweezers and the back edge of an exacto so far.
I still may buy one of the hold and fold jigs thouth. There 5 speed looks like it would work for alot of different modeling stuff.
Keep the advice comming!!!!!
I still may buy one of the hold and fold jigs thouth. There 5 speed looks like it would work for alot of different modeling stuff.
Keep the advice comming!!!!!
RichardM
Quebec, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2006
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Posted: Monday, November 13, 2006 - 08:23 PM UTC
Here's two homemade PE Tools
HERE and HERE
Website is in german but there is enough pictures to understand. Probably quite rudimentary but for a beginner who want to try PE this good be a good starter tool before investing lots of money on a more professional one. At least that's what I will be doing
HERE and HERE
Website is in german but there is enough pictures to understand. Probably quite rudimentary but for a beginner who want to try PE this good be a good starter tool before investing lots of money on a more professional one. At least that's what I will be doing
wbill76
Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 12:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Somebodys thinking. Guess the guy's the McGiver of the model world.
All he needs is some empty film canisters and he'll have a pocket nuclear reactor. :-)
Some impressive home-made stuff there for sure, just shows you that those "scratch build" skills can be used in more ways than one depending.
AUGieDogie
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Posted: Friday, November 17, 2006 - 04:54 PM UTC
Well, ive done a little more work with the PE.
I bought a hold and fold from the little shop (great service!!!!!!!) and i discoverd that it mainly helps to hold the little end, and I did work great for the mud guards (flaps) I switched to plain old plastizap for the PE parts, and it works a little better.
The only real problem i had was getting the 3 peices glued to the mud gaurd on the rear. I think that the thiner CA might have worked better for this. I also thought about soldering it but just left it the way it was.
I have ALOT of learning left to do on the wole thing. But hey this was my learning kit any way, so i expect it to look less then good.
I did go a little overboard on buying kits so I have a but load of tigers.
Purchased dragon early and late from web site. After two weeks I purchase thes two kits from ebay. sent message to cancel the other order and of course they shipped it that morning. Thats 4 so far. Saw one on Ebay listed in a really weird spot for $10 starting price with only 2 hours left so what the heck. That makes 3 early and two late.
Then i ordered the whittman tiger(s) from cyber hobby.
So I should get pretty good at these things.
Going to try epoxy for the next kits PE and maybe try and solder the mud guard peices, at least i've got extras...
any more advice is appreciated
I bought a hold and fold from the little shop (great service!!!!!!!) and i discoverd that it mainly helps to hold the little end, and I did work great for the mud guards (flaps) I switched to plain old plastizap for the PE parts, and it works a little better.
The only real problem i had was getting the 3 peices glued to the mud gaurd on the rear. I think that the thiner CA might have worked better for this. I also thought about soldering it but just left it the way it was.
I have ALOT of learning left to do on the wole thing. But hey this was my learning kit any way, so i expect it to look less then good.
I did go a little overboard on buying kits so I have a but load of tigers.
Purchased dragon early and late from web site. After two weeks I purchase thes two kits from ebay. sent message to cancel the other order and of course they shipped it that morning. Thats 4 so far. Saw one on Ebay listed in a really weird spot for $10 starting price with only 2 hours left so what the heck. That makes 3 early and two late.
Then i ordered the whittman tiger(s) from cyber hobby.
So I should get pretty good at these things.
Going to try epoxy for the next kits PE and maybe try and solder the mud guard peices, at least i've got extras...
any more advice is appreciated