Looking through so many reference pics, you notice even modern vehickles like those in Iraq have some solid rust on them. I think with all the weathering that we do, we kind of leave that major factor out when weathering up our models.
My question is, what is the best way to even attempt to create a rust look? Not major hull rust, just the ones you see on the corners of hatches, periscope houses, etc? Is it even that do able? Thanks for any help.

Jim

Well, someone had a technique I tried several times with some nice results. Take a small jar, add some water, place some 0000 steel wool in the bottom. Cover the jar. Let it sit for a few days. Voila. You have liquid rust. I used it on buildings. Never tried it on a model, but you certainly cause my interest in attempting it on a tank. Seems like it would be a simple matter to use it as a wash for the periscopes etc. Just looking at them makes Russian tanks rust .Anyone else got some ideas?
DJ

You can make a very thin wash of your favorite rust color paint,enamel or acrylic whatever is appropiate and use it as a pin wash.

I have also used a product called Rustall,available thru Micromark,it is a wash that can be painted on or used like a pin wash.

Or you can use Mig Pigments or pigments from Bragdon,or Micromark has Doc O'rien's weathering powders.

Hope this helps

Tony have you used MIG products? I understand they are tricky to get right.
thanks
DJ

I have yet to use them for rust,but I have used them for weathering and making mud and they have been good for me.I printed some of the articles on this site and I purchased the FAQ book they have been helpful.

Tony-- thanks. How much did they run you? I am thinking about getting some and need to "budget" for them.
thanks again
DJ

$5-$6 per container,try spruebrothers or e-bay search,also come in sets4-6 colors $25-$35 a set.Good research @ www.migproductions.com

One way for rusty tank exhausts (tigers, etc) that i tried recently was to paint the entire exhaust with lamp black oil paint and then sprinkle Mig pigments standard rust followed by light rust over the fresh paint. Leave it a couple of days and then flat varnish (using an airbrush) to seal it all in.it does give quite an effective finish.

The trick with Mig Pigment is to experiment with them and you'll eventually find the best way to use them that you're comfortable with.

I have used the steel wool in water trick.. I let the water evaporate so all I was left with was a relatively fine rust powder.. Painted the exhaust in grey ,sprinkled on the powder then used brown and black washes.. Turned out not bad



Dave

The wool in water trick works pretty good. I use the Mig pigments too, but the rust pigment gets EVERYWHERE. I mean a small spot on your table will stain the table, get on your finger and the model, on your pants, and stain your fingernail when trying to wash it off-sometimes it gets on the sponge trying to wipe your hands clean and it ends up on your dishes...

For the Mig I usually prime the exhaust with dark grey or black, paint a 'mud' of pigment mixed with water on it, let it dry, then brush the excess off. If I want it to look multilayered, I will dull cote the first coat(it will darken and look like the part is permeated in the color), then brush a little more on it when dry, but man that stuff is the messiest thing I have ever seen. I have tried it a couple times on the model for subtle rust, but next thing you know you are chasing your tail and it looks like it came from under the sea.... The other pigments are much easier to control. For tracks and what not I just blend MM rust paints with the ab depending on how rusty I want it(and/or 'rust' color oil washes), with all the handling the pigment rust isnt worth the hastle.

A long time ago I wrote this little guide about re-creating realistic rust.
Now I prefer to use the pigments approach, using a combination of raw umber, burnt sienna and black powders that I buy at a locart art supply store for a couple of euros per kilogram (much much cheaper than the oter sold as specific for the hobby).
It is true that they tend to go almost everywhere, but if prior to apply the first pigments layer you apply on the part a bit ot enamel flat clear (50% paint and 50% thinner) they just stay where they are. Prior to apply the other shades is sufficient to moist the area with a bit of thinner.
This is the final effect:





Ciao
Fabio

Fabio-- superb as usual.
DJ

Thanks a lot DJ! That's very kind of you...
Ciao
Fabio

I use Vallejo acrylics for rust.
822 SS Camo Black Brown
981 Orange Brown
I can control how much rust I want and the effect I want to illustrate.
I have Rustall and MIG pigments in various shades of rust also.
It comes down to personal preference I guess.
Henry

You could do some pretty simple stuff along the corners and edges of the model. If you find a nice rust brown you may be able to run it along the edges, to kind of make them look run down, and a bit rusty.