Dioramas: Buildings & Ruins
Ruined buildings and city scenes.
Hosted by Darren Baker
MiniArt's Hungarian Country House WIP
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Wales, United Kingdom
Joined: April 04, 2007
KitMaker: 152 posts
Armorama: 137 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 08:45 AM UTC
Any updates, Henk??
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 18, 2005
KitMaker: 1,226 posts
Armorama: 819 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 08:49 AM UTC
Sure looks great though

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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: August 07, 2004
KitMaker: 6,391 posts
Armorama: 4,258 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 05:48 PM UTC
Thanks guys,

No real updates as such, as I have only chipped away at it at times so far. Have made some good progress with the figures though.

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I'm planning on mine having a flat roof with a skylight, kind of like an artists studio.

Now that sounds like a perfect idea. It would also tie in the four windows very nicely.

And thanks for the added translations.

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United Kingdom
Joined: May 08, 2006
KitMaker: 269 posts
Armorama: 247 posts
Posted: Friday, January 04, 2008 - 11:10 AM UTC

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wow,,grrreat work..just bought this one myself..but i wonder,how did you hide/cover the seamlines?? maybe i cut my walls too bad cos they dont fit very good,,a lot of glitches..could i use some sort of putty????

Felix, that is a problem with vacuformed kits...it can be dificult to maintain an even thickness to the walls. I cut mine out with a slightly worn blade to guard against slips and angled the blade as close to the surrounding plastic as I could.
I then fixed a sheet of abrasive to a flat piece of board with double sided tape.
The board was clamped to the bench leaving both hands free to gently sand the back of the parts in a figure 8 motion.
I stopped sanding when the edge of the plastic took on the correct thickness when compared to the sheet offcuts.
I filled any gaps using Humbrol Filler, go easy though as the filler contains a solvent that will damage the thinner areas if too much is applied at once.
The most difficult joints are the face of the building where the walls meet the curved pillar.
I ended up with a slight mismatch on the inside but deemed the outside as more important to get right.
Joined: June 26, 2007
KitMaker: 34 posts
Armorama: 29 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 06:39 PM UTC
i have been wondering - what if they made their inner and outer sections so that one was slightly larger than the other and would then overlap? - then the final structure would be much stronger and w/o the fussiness of trying to make two thin edges match up and stick together. I sent Miniart an e-mail with that idea, but I don't know if they got what I was trying to say.
I have several of their kits, and I am a bit hesitant to get more because of the assembly problem (although I still have all my fingers!).