I have long had the problem of over glueing a part to ensure adhesion. I usually have a blotch around the part (headlight guard for example). I use my hobby knife and it gets the majority, but some still remains. My question is two parts: 1. how do you preclude using too much glue, and (2.) what do you do when you apply too much?
thanks
DJ
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Removing excess glue
210cav
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Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 05:44 PM UTC
Drader
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Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 05:54 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I have long had the problem of over glueing a part to ensure adhesion. I usually have a blotch around the part (headlight guard for example). I use my hobby knife and it gets the majority, but some still remains. My question is two parts: 1. how do you preclude using too much glue, and (2.) what do you do when you apply too much?
thanks
DJ
For that sort of application, i would suggest using one of the less viscous glues, so it doesn't build up a blob. I'm currently impressed y Tamiya's extra thin which seems to attach pieces firmly and flow into gaps without leaving much of a mark on the surface.
It's also very good at flowing out of gaps, so watch where you put your fingers!
For clean up I usually use a conbination of a scalpel, sanding stick and little bits of fine wet-or-dry abrasive.
David
emroglan
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Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 06:44 PM UTC
As stated, use Tamiya's Super Thin Glue,with the green cap. It really doesn't leave residue and dries real fast, great for small pieces. However, don't get addicted to it and use it on the big parts, as it is thin it only bonds the connection surface. For large pieces, it forms a weak bond which is easily broken.
In addition, if you use normal glue and a blob forms up, you can apply super thin glue on top of it with its brush and break up and spread the blob evenly along the surface. If there's still a small amount of residue, it will be much easier to clean up.
In addition, if you use normal glue and a blob forms up, you can apply super thin glue on top of it with its brush and break up and spread the blob evenly along the surface. If there's still a small amount of residue, it will be much easier to clean up.
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 08:26 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I My question is two parts: 1. how do you preclude using too much glue,
thanks
DJ
Use "glues" that are only solvents. The least harmful is ethylacetate
which is the major component of nail polish remover.
It solves the styrene and then evaporates, if the joints are nice and
tight (good fit) it will give a bonding which is strong enough.
Sometimes the plastic will split instead of the bond breaking up
when trying to pull pieces apart.
/ Robin
HansBolter
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Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 09:40 PM UTC
I suffer from a similar problem and since I am a gadget freak I have acquired a number of special tools and glues to assist me in overcoming this handicap.
I agree that Tamiya'a super thin liquid is a good choice.
I also picked up two other excellent thin liquid cements:
Ambroid Proweld
Tenax ...I think it is 7R ot 7XR or somthing to that effect.
I also picked up some different tools for applying these cements to take the place of the venerable wooden toothpick
MicroMarck sells three different tools for this application.
One is a small metal rod woth a loop on the end
One is a small metal rod with an open ended "u" shape (I saw where some one had made one of these by clipping off the loop end of a sewing needle)
And a small glass tube that fills with the liquid cement for depositing a small drop.
However, in spite of all these gadgets, I still sometimes manage to overdo things with my ham handed clumsiness.
I agree that Tamiya'a super thin liquid is a good choice.
I also picked up two other excellent thin liquid cements:
Ambroid Proweld
Tenax ...I think it is 7R ot 7XR or somthing to that effect.
I also picked up some different tools for applying these cements to take the place of the venerable wooden toothpick
MicroMarck sells three different tools for this application.
One is a small metal rod woth a loop on the end
One is a small metal rod with an open ended "u" shape (I saw where some one had made one of these by clipping off the loop end of a sewing needle)
And a small glass tube that fills with the liquid cement for depositing a small drop.
However, in spite of all these gadgets, I still sometimes manage to overdo things with my ham handed clumsiness.
210cav
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 09:10 PM UTC
My Friends I appreciate your responses and trust I can apply glue in a more effective manner in the future.
thanks again
DJ
thanks again
DJ
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 09:21 PM UTC
Hi!
I always use the following glues:
For the small and tiny parts I use Tamiya thin cement and the Bison Stain remover. It is more or less the same as T. thin cement. For the larger parts you can use Revell Contacta. For the PE I use Pattex Cyanoacrylate and Zap-O
I always use the following glues:
For the small and tiny parts I use Tamiya thin cement and the Bison Stain remover. It is more or less the same as T. thin cement. For the larger parts you can use Revell Contacta. For the PE I use Pattex Cyanoacrylate and Zap-O
210cav
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 10:36 PM UTC
Jurjen-- very nice. I have not used the green top Tamiya glue, but will obtain some. As for the Zap-O, I need to get that too. What does the Bison product do?
thanks
DJ
thanks
DJ
markm
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 10:41 PM UTC
I would be cautious with the Tenax. I bought a bottle of it to try out and was almost able to watch it evaporate from the bottle. I have not used it since even though it did work great. I stick with the Tamiya now. As others have said be careful with it because it is really "extra thin" and loves to run everywhere. Does not leave much of a mess and spreads itself out really well eliminating alot of the usual cleanup.
210cav
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 10:43 PM UTC
Mark-- did you use the Zap-O, Jurjen describes?
thanks
DJ
thanks
DJ
markm
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 10:46 PM UTC
Yep, If it is the same one I have it is real thin and works great. Need to be careful as well because it has a mind of its own like the Tamiya. :-)
210cav
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 11:12 PM UTC
Mark-- thanks
DJ
PS-- just noted that you had a relative who served with the 1st of the 7th Cavalry-- Garry Owen, greatest unit in the world.
DJ
PS-- just noted that you had a relative who served with the 1st of the 7th Cavalry-- Garry Owen, greatest unit in the world.
markm
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Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 11:18 PM UTC
That is exactly the way my father in law felt about it all the way up to his death.