Opinions and experience sought.

I've read a couple of different articles on making canvas, and I was hoping to hear from someone(s) who have actually done it.

The two methods I have heard are: 1) use a 50-50 mixture of water and white glue on a tissue; 2) use a 50-50 mixture of water and water soluble latex (caulk) on a tissue. One article implied you could add paint to the mixture, the other suggested waiting unitl it was dry.

So, here are my questions (in no particular order).

Is a tissue heavy/thick enough to imply a typical canvas used on a Beep, Jeep, CCKW, etc. If it's not, what would you suggest - napkin, paper towel?

Should I add the paint to the mixture or wait till it's dry?

Any preference on the glue vs latex debate? Is there another method with a different binder?

how delicate is the final piece?

I'm under the illusion that I'd like to put a canvass top on a Dodge Weapons Carrier I'm building, so thanks for your comments and advice...

This may help some. The tissue they refer to is NOT tissue as in kleenex. It is instead the stuff used in gift bags. That stuff is very resistent to tears and sturdy. I haven't used to make a tarp yet but the things I have done with it work really well and with the mixture they talk about you should be able to shape it nicely.

There is another method that I've read about, and seen, but haven't tried yet myself. That is to use two part epoxy. I've used two part epoxy to make tarps and such, and the same basic method can go with large canvas. The trick is to make it thin enough. When doing tarps I use an exacto knife handle as a rolling pin. You mix the stuff up, then use talcum powder on your rolling surface to keep it from sticking. You then roll it out just like pie dough. You can get it pretty thin with some practice.

Rob is 100% right on the type of tissue.
I prefer to paint afterwords. It removes any chance of a diluted color or interaction of color and glue. Just my preference I think.

The white tissue packed with new shirts is the type you want (colored tissue is also sometimes sold as gift wrapping in card shops). Crumple it up into a ball to break up the long fibers, then flatten it out. I find it's generally easier to install it dry and then add the white glue/water mixture to it. Paint it after it dries. For rolled up tarps, roll your tissue dry, and add your strapping from thin styrene strip looped all the way around the tarp. Once the strip is dry, add your white glue/water mixture and the tissue will swell against the straps as though it had been cinched tight. When it dries, it will retain the swollen shape. If you want it to fit tight against the vehicle's contours, place it while it's wet, but use cling film to keep it from sticking to the model. Remove it when it's dry and paint using enamel or acrylic.
Paper towels or napkins will always be identified as such by viewers, so avoid them on scale models.

That's a great topic! I was about to ask about how to simulate canvas in 1/72? (Small artillery tractor with canvas doors...)

Yeah it's a great topic, thanks for Scott for asking!

I have already learnt that I was wrong in many ways in my approach. Biggest problem was the material, I tried to make it with paper handkerchief, not much success.

Anyone knows a proper name for this type of tissue you are talking about? How does it look like? Is it like a semi-transparent piece of paper? A photo maybe?

Caulk vs Glue..............depends on what youre modelling.

Caulk and water works great if you need your canvas to be flexible. Like that for a canvas roof with the roof in place. It will also work fine if youre going to roll up that canvas.

White glue and water works great for making bed rolls etc where you want the finished product to remain stiff.

As for paper, I have some nice heavy duty paper towels which have no embossing in them. They work great for making tarps, roofs, bedrolls, whatever.

Hope that helps. Those are my experiences with the subject.

Gary

hey,
I use Kleenex facial tissue,i just put a canvas top on a Opel blitz,started with the front piece cutting it close to size and laying it across the front bow section dry,using a small cup filled with warm water added white glue,using a large soft brush,softly touching the tissue with the glue mixture,don't brush,you're looking for the wicking effect,i softly rolled it around the the front bow section and left it dry overnight,it'll tighten up and dry hard,then I'll go on to the top and sides,all in one piece,i let mine hang down a little past the sides and trim it later ,after it's dry,using a fresh xacto blade,then finished it with the flap that hang down on the back,i also use this to make the tie straps for the flap.I've also done this with the plastic tops provided with models like the WC-57 Dodge command car,gluing the tissue to the provided top,giving it a actual fabric appearance,with wrinkles at the corners.even though i use a airbrush,i found that painting these canvas surfaces with a brush works/looks better,you're first few attempts might tear,but the key to this is patience,the results are incredible.This will also work on tarps,folded or rolled up ,folded or rolled up dry and touching(wicking) the glue mixture to the piece,it'll start to set rather quickly,allowing you to open up the creases and layers and while still soft,shape it ,to the vehicle.

Joe

I've used facial tissue, Kleenex type, the stuff made to blow your nose into, for years and never had a problem. It's also very readily available. Among other things, I've made a hanging coat, manltet covers, seat material, and raised convertible tops on M151's. I use white glue, either Elmer's or a store brand, mixed 1:1 with water.

I started off using Kleenex tissue and at some point moved over to the two part epoxy putty that Rodger (Halfyank) mentioned. Something to keep in mind with the Kleenex, it is not the same as toilet tissue. Toilet paper is designed to desolve in water. Kleenex will hold its shape fairly well, just go slow and take your time. When I was using tissue for my tarps/canvas stuff, I mixed water and Elmers brand white glue roughly 50-50 in a small glass bowl. Once my piece was in place I used an eye dropper to "drop" the mixture in place on the tissue. The tissue soaked it up easily and by using the eye dropper it was easy to control just how much of the mixture was applied so as to avoid having the water/glue everywhere.
Something else that I have found works well is a combination of the putty and tissue. I would mix up enough putty for what I was doing, make some approximate sizes and shapes of the rolls etc, and then cover them with some tissue. I would then brush on some water/glue mixture and let everthing dry. I did this with the rear cavas, sleeping bag and the duffle type bag towards the front on my IDF M-577 below and it worked out really well. Hope this is of some help. "Q"

I use coffee filters soaked in a mix of white glue and water. works good for me. and looks good too. and since I always keep a big pack on hand , theres always plenty if I mess up, or want to make a bunch of rolls.
http://panzercreations.fotopic.net/p32871152.html

That's a new suggestion with the coffee filters Tim. I'm going to try it out.

Why some posters have advised against using facial tissue is that once dry, they have TOO much texture to them -- almost looking like tree bark in 1/35 scale to my eye. My jacket hanging off the chair 8 feet away from me has NO discernable texture. Shape yes, fabric texture no.

There is a fairly well known article where someone suggested making burlap sandbags out of putty and then impressing them with an old T-shirt to give fabric texture. And under no circumstances would I do that. Again, even something as rough as burlap wouldn't have that severe a texture. Just some of my opinions.. HTH

My source for "scale" canvas is paper cut from sewing patterns. You can find a lot of scrap in the margins. Conversely, you can find the pattern on for a couple of dollars at the regular outlets, and you will have enough material to last a lifetime.

Any ideas on the 1/72 scale canvas? Anyone?

I tried your white glue&water method, and found it do be not what i was looking for.
The white glue&water method was sound, but the tissue fell apart in my hands.

Instead i tried your basic A4 paper, worked extremely well.
See here.

I go with the two part epoxy putty (Magic Scuplt / Aves Apoxie etc) for 1/72 items. It can be rolled out thin enough to be almost transparent and looks really good when folds, wrinkles etc. are imparted with toothpicks, and other tools. "Q"

Hm. I never even though that Magic Sculpt could be used... I'll try it as soon as I can.
Thank you. (It'll be great for some figures I'm sculpting, too.)

Just ensure you use a fair amount of baby and or talcum powder to keep things from sticking. The powder won't hinder the curing. I roll mine out on a sheet of glass with a mini rolling pin. A little of the putty goes a long, long way in 1/72 scale. "Q"

Works well but...
You have to place the tissue where you want it then dab (I use old paint brush) the water / glue mix on top. You can't handle the tissue after you wet it - will tear VERY easy.

Few examples:
Before paint


After first coat


Good Luck,
NEO