sherman ! lol
ive always wanted to do a sherman pumping a panzer 3 just to rub it in ay

The final model day of 2008 was a productive one. I continued on with Step 7 which deals with the fenders and their installation onto the hull.

The step directs you to install the front and rear mudflaps first, but experience with the G taught me that it's better to attach the fenders to the hull first before mounting the rear flaps, so they were left off for the moment. I also filled in the mount holes that I won't be using on the different sides, some because tools are going to be relocated and some because the Griffon clamps are going to stand-in. Where the Griffon clamps will be used, I carefully removed some of the raised pattern to provide a level surface for gluing. I also sanded down the section on the left side fender where a 4-can jerry-can rack will go to allow the cans to also sit properly.



With that out of the way, both fenders were installed to the hull and the rear flaps added. The fenders have a tendency to want to bow upward slightly at the front and back, so to counteract that I glued them down solidly in the middle first and then added liquid glue to the rear only to straighten things out. I didn't address the front because that would be dealt with when the hull was added. The bulkhead separating the fighting compartment and the engine bay was also added and some slight finger pressure used on the hull sides to get a squared-up join all around.



Moving on to Step 8/9 (they really are the same thing just one step per side), the superstructure sides received their view ports. These are designed to be left workable if you're really careful with how you glue them in place, which comes in very handy in the later steps when it's time to join them to the superstructure frame. I glued the clear armored blocks into place and masked them with blue tack poster putty. The mount hole for the crew step was opened up but not the holes for the cleaning rods as they are going to be repositioned due to the jerry can rack being located there. The mount hole for the shovel handle was filled with putty and sanded down in anticipation of the Griffon clamp going there later.



Step 10 is a big step with multiple sub-assemblies designed to get everything ready to assemble the superstructure. The side intakes are a two-part assembly with two choices offered, I chose the one with the sunken bolt heads just because. The rear engine deck plate received the hooks for the tow cables and I chose the option of adding the armored smoke candle box as well. The engine deck access hatches received some details although I didn't use the PE slats for the underside since they make sense only if you want to model the slats closed. The front superstructure plate was also assembled with the driver's visor and armored glass installed and the glass masked with blue tack. On the ball MG mount, I cheated a bit and only used the one part for the barrel as there's no point in assembling the full thing if the radio operator's hatch isn't going to be open.



Step 11 brings everything together to form the superstructure and then installs the superstructure to the hull. I added the sides first along with the air intakes, using liquid glue to get a seamless join with the molded-on weld seams. This takes a little patience and careful application of pressure but DML's positioning of the weld seams makes this a neat extra detail IMHO. Once that had set, the front plate came next, again using strategic finger pressure for its join. The rear plate was last. It was here that leaving the view ports workable paid off...I could close them while working with these areas and be able to apply pressure where needed knowing they could just open right back up again after I was done.




To complete the step, the superstructure was mated with the lower hull. I used a combination of regular glue and liquid glue on the different surfaces for the initial joins. Finger pressure was needed at certain points with the fenders to get them to mate solid as well as at the rear hull plate, but nothing too out of the ordinary. The fit overall is nice and tight. I will have to fill the two open holes on the left side air intake since the cleaning rods there are going to be relocated as well, but will deal with that after the hull has set up thoroughly.

I also decided to keep only the driver's side view port in the open position. The radio operator's view port doesn't have much clearance with the lifting hook, so it would barely be open to begin with so it's not really worth the trouble. I also will be adding some spare track armor there and next to the hull MG, so it made sense in the long run to close it up.



Hope everyone has a safe New Year's Eve and wish you a Happy New Year!

Total session time: 5 hours

Total time to date: 13.5 hours

great progres i cant belive youve spent 13 hours on the kit already !

happy new years bill

which conflict you going to have the panzer IV?

Gee, this kit looks familiar! I did this one for my first armor build ever. I do have one suggestion tho, the side hatches on the turret don't seem to match up well on either side. Also the directions are unclear as to what version recieves which parts since the kit includes both F2 and G parts. Otherwise, its an excellent kit! Good job so far too!

Bill,cool tank and hot build theme,Africa campaign,Oh Yow. Its good to see something different,then a east or west war period tank,of snow,mud,white wash. With us in the winter,something in the desert as your build theme helps warm things up! Can't wait to see the next update. And from one fellow Texan to another ,Happy New Years to you and yours!

Newfish,

Check the first post for the answer to your question.




Justin, thanks for the comments! I agree you have to be careful with the F2 vs. G parts although most of the G-specific parts are marked as "Not for Use" on the front page of the instructions, there are still some in the "options" choices that should be looked at carefully depending on the vehicle you're choosing to model.

As far as the side hatches on the turret, thanks for the warning! I already knew this was an area to watch out for. The kit diagrams aren't the greatest in terms of how they call out the parts installation...the interior frames, G18 for example are shown already in place (but aren't called out by parts number) and can be easily missed if you aren't paying attention...this is something they fixed in the G instructions but not in the F2 since it came first. You also have to be very careful with the parts and layout for the side hatches as they are side-specific (and use the parentheses approach to distinguish between the two) but the sub-step diagram points to the "right" side first vs. the "left". This was something I got tripped up on myself when I built the G and now know to watch out for on this one too...in fact, when I opened the kit, the first thing I did was go back and re-read my own build log on the G and the notes I'd left myself on the instruction sheet as a refresher.

Thanks Jeff! You sneaked this one in while I was responding to the others. I guess it's appropriate considering I live in a desert to do a desert-themed build to kick off the new year! Happy New Year to you and yours as well!

This one is moving real fast Bill, at this rate you'll be painting by the weekend.

It's looking that way Jimz, maybe even as early as tomorrow.

At this rate you'll be done in no time Bill. Those are very helpful tips, I've already taken notes for when I start mine, and will write it down on the instruction sheet as you did. Thanks and it is looking great so far.

Rob

Thanks Rob! DML instructions will definitely keep you on your toes if nothing else.

With the hull thoroughly joined, I started in on the fender and side details. The front hull received the lower portion of the spare track holder that I'd left off deliberately in Step 7, the upper portion will get added once the spare track run is installed. I added the Notek light to the left fender and provided the missing wiring conduit in the form of some .022" solder bent to shape and glued in place.



Step 12 deals with all the various tools and details that need to be added to the left side. I will be leaving all of the tools off until after painting so they weren't installed just yet. The holes in the left intake were filled with putty and sanded down and the crew step installed. Some F2s had the step, some didn't but I elected to include it. This limited the amount of space available for the jerry can rack to only allow for 3 cans, but that's fine for my purposes.

The field-mod rack was scratch-built from excess material from an Eduard PE fret. I cut out a single long strip and used the Dremel to remove any bumps/stubs. The strip was deliberately longer than I needed and to fit 3 cans, the rack needed to measure 16mm long and 6 mm deep. This was accomplished by bending the strip using my Ausfwerks Fender Bender metal brake and cutting done the excess with side cutters. It was then glued in place with Gator Grip glue so I could get it positioned straight and level and allowed to set up.

The Griffon clamp for the long pry-bar was installed and the kit-supplied PE used for the fender support and the air intake flaps. The kit provides styrene options if you don't want to go the PE route but in both cases I felt the PE offered more in-scale detail so opted for them.

The instructions in Step 12 contain an omission, they show part B22 (the grab handle above the crew step) as installed but it's never called out as a part. This same error was carried over into the G kit instructions so I was aware of it beforehand and knew where to look on the sprues.



In order to save time at this point, I went ahead and cleaned up all the left side tools even though they won't be installed just yet. The long pry-bar had it's molded on clamp removed and the tensioning wrench had its tapered end sanded down as it is molded too thick and uniform. I also removed the mount pins from the wrench and the gun cleaning rods as they will be mounted ultimately in places with no holes.



Using the very highly detailed jerry-can set from a previous DML Pz I-B project, I assembled three cans complete with PE inserts and marked as 20L Wasser cans.



These were then test-fit into the rack and all my measurements paid off with a snug fit.



Total session time: 3.5 hours

Total time to date: 17 hours

Next up is the right side fender and then on to the turret!

great progress the jerry cans look superb

the detail of your build is great keep it up

Bill simply amazing that you can work so fast. How do you time yourself? Do you just check the clock when you start and finish or is there more method to that madness?

Newfish, thanks for the encouragement!




JimZ,

I've been able to move quickly on this one so far due to being on vacation otherwise it would have been much slower chronologically speaking. The fact that this is one of DML's best "Smart Kit" designs IMHO helps greatly in that there are minimal errors/issues to contend with for the most part.

As for logging the time, I just write down the time I start working and same as when I stop. If I get interruptions like phone calls or "other" calls or breaks for food/snacks, etc., that gets deducted from the total time as well to keep the "true" build time intact. I generally work best when I get solid blocks of time to build, it helps with the mindset and concentration but I can't go for 5 hours straight anymore like I used to.

Nice job on the fuel can rack. I'm waiting to see the turret pics and write up on it, should be as good as what your written so far. Does the turret come with an interior as with the ausf E?

Rob

I wish I could sit for one hour straight. Thanks Bill.

I'll be following this as I've heard that this Panzer IV kit is supposed to be a real joy to put together. The speed of your build is quite amazing, I've had a two week brake from college and I didn't get nearly as far as I wanted to with my project! It's good to see that you're not just a fast modeler but also a very precise one. Keep modeling and updating!

-Mike-

Thanks Rob! The interior isn't as detailed as on the "Super Kit" E. For example there's no turret basket or floor and there isn't a spent shell catch for the main gun. The interior is fairly limited to being just the rear portions of the gun itself and the recoil guard as well as details for the interior surfaces of the hatches. A seat for the commander is provided and there are details in the cupola but that's it in terms of details provided.

JimZ, I hear you...there are days where I know I can't get that time I need so I just don't do any work...that's the main reason I only work on the weekends as a normal practice.

Mike, Thanks for the comments and hope this is of help to you on your project. I really enjoyed the G when I built it and this one is living up to that same expectation so far. The fact that I've got the chance to personalize it a bit with the DAK modifications makes it even more enjoyable.

Lots of work was completed today so I'll dive right in...beginning first with the right side fender and Step 13, it received similar treatment as the left side yesterday. The intake flaps were installed along with the antenna tray and antenna, the PE fender support bracket, etc. All of the tools were left off with the exception of the track changing tool, this needed to be installed because of the overlap with the front fender support bracket...experience with the G taught me this one can't be fitted later on if the bracket is already in place, so on it goes. The Griffon clamps for the short pry-bar, the shovel, the crank starter, and the axe were also installed.



All of the tools that were left off had their molded on clamps carefully removed and their handles sanded down where appropriate. I assembled the multi-part jack but left the brackets off for now for easier painting. Because of where the jack installs, I'm going to save it for later as I have plans for some extra track links on that side of the hull and need access to it.



The three individual links that install on this fender also got some attention. They are molded solid but without the linking pins, so I used a pin vise and micro drill bit to open the holes up. There were also two small ejector pin marks on the top portion of their clamps that had to be carefully removed.



To round things out with the lower hull, I scratch-built two spare wheel holders from 24-gauge steel wire. I used blue tack to hold a wheel together as a template as a temporary solution, bent the wire to shape, then adjusted until I had the spacing right...it took 3 attempts before I got it down, but was worth it. Once I had one the right shape, making the second one was a piece of cake. The wire was mounted using CA gel so it could support the weight. I had considered using solder but didn't think it would keep its shape over time so went with the sturdier steel wire just to be sure.





Step 14 begins work on the turret by focusing first on the main gun. The mantle is constructed from 5 parts and the option is given to fit the sleeve 2 different ways, changing the placement of the screws in the process. I didn't really pick one over the other as the photos I'm using aren't clear enough to say one way or the other. This step also provides the option of installing the coaxial MG sleeve with the barrel present or not...a handy thing if you wanted to show the coaxial MG missing (ad hoc AA mount, wreck that's been picked over, etc.), I of course chose it with the MG in place.



Step 15 assembles the rest of the main gun by adding the barrel, the recoil housing, the mount into the turret, and the muzzle brake. This step also calls for the installation of the mount swivel points, parts B11 and B12, but I left them off because if you install them later, the gun will be movable if you're careful with the glue and don't attach them to the pins on B34...something Step 15 doesn't point out. The muzzle brake is two parts but use of liquid glue and careful sanding will create a seamless look. The slight seam on the one-piece barrel was also carefully sanded down to complete things here.



Step 16 installs the gun into the front turret plate and adds the breech and recoil guards. There are two sub-steps, one calls for the front turret plate to have the two view ports added, I elected to pose the gunner's in the open position. The other calls for the assembly of the breech and breech block.



The gun was installed into the turret front plate first and then the breech and recoil guards added to complete the step.



Step 17 is a collection of sub-steps dealing with the turret and turret accessories. The first is a busy one dealing with the turret interior. Both the side vision ports are installed and can be made workable if careful with the glue. I plan to leave the gunner's side open when the build is finished but for now it's in the closed position. The inner frames for the turret side hatches, parts G18, should also install in this step and they are shown in place on the diagram but they aren't called out by parts number or arrows, so this is a potential pitfall. If the frames aren't installed, it makes it much more difficult to get the side hatch hinges and outer doors in the correct position.

This little sub-step also adds the rear turret pistol ports and the lifting eyes. It directs you to install the exhaust fan but I left this off until the next step as it needs to integrate with some of the top parts and that's difficult to do at this point since they aren't installed yet.



The other sub-steps deal with the rear turret stowage box and the commander's cupola. The cupola is a multi-part assembly with options to pose the armored shutters in the open or closed position. Since these were operated independently, I elected to open only the front facing port and left all the others in the closed position. The hatches were installed in the closed position and are a very tight fit with the hinge points so be careful here or you can damage the pins.



Step 18 is the moment of truth...it assembles all the previous sub-assemblies to construct the turret and add its remaining details. To construct the turret you must first add the main gun and front plate to the top, then add the turret bottom. If you add the bottom first, the gun breech won't fit in the gap available, so the order of things is important here. I used a combination of regular glue, liquid glue, and strategic finger pressure to get all the weld seams to join and seal up properly.

Once dry, the details were added. I removed the molded on base of the commander's sighting vane and used the kit-provided PE replacement and installed the ventilator cover and signal port flap. The side hatches were assembled and installed and while the diagram is a bit confusing and has a couple of the hinge parts swapped around in the numbering, so long as the inner bases were installed in the previous step you can't install things wrong. The inner bases have two different sized "D" shaped pins that correspond to the correct hinge parts and so long as you have the pistol port door as the rearmost door on either side, everything goes in just fine. The instructions have an error in the parts number for the rain gutters, these are not A39 as labelled but are actually A37.

Last but not least, the cupola and storage box were installed.



And, just to stay in the spirit of things, Step 19 calls for the turret to be fitted to the lower hull.



Things are now ready to move to the painting stage.

Total session time: 8.25 hours

Total time to date: 25.25 hours

Nice work Bill!! My computer crashed so I havent been able to see your progress up until now.

I cant wait to see this thing with a bit of paint on it. It amazes me that you can put that much time, effort and tiny little pieces in to this thing without going insane!! I'd be screaming my head off by now!!

it looks cracking which dragon kit are you using?

the tools look great ,

so does the turret the gunbreech its nice to see you get abit of an interior with it =]

Dude, did you even see the first post?

Nice work Bill.

Really enjoy your SBS blogs, although I don't comment as much as I probably should I do read every one start to finish LOL.


cheers from the sandbox

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There aint many F2 in DML line so..