This particular project is one that's been sitting in the back of my mind for a while now and I recently got the "spark" to bring it to the front burner (how's that for mixing cliches!) after browsing through some recent reference material and reading about the "Tropen" schemes used in N. Afrika. This got me to thinking...the orders are well established and clear (see here for the full description: http://www.afrikakorps.org/ralcolors.htm) regarding the schemes to be used in N. Afrika but I'd always just gone with the flow of one-color 'desert yellow' schemes. The Pz IV F2 presented just the right opportunity for me...I've had the Bison "Pz IV in Afrika" set on hand for a while but never got around to using it and it includes markings for an F2 in service with the 8th Regiment, 15th Panzer Division in 1942. There were 2 "Tropen" schemes ordered, one (RAL 8000/RAL 7008) that ran from March '41 until March '42 and one (RAL 8020/RAL 7027) that ran from March '42 until May '43 when the N. Afrika campaign concluded (this of course overlaps with the introduction of Dunkelgelb in Feb. 1943 but that's another story!). The F2 timing is perfect once again since they started production in March '42, so the Testors has the correct RAL 8020 (Afrika Braun) and RAL 7028 (Afrika Dunkelgrau) available even if the Testors names aren't right, they include the RAL # in the product description and the shades are a close match to online color chips, so I'm set! That will be the scheme I will be using, the RAL 8020 as a base coat and the RAL 7027 in a 1/3 pattern over that when it comes time to painting.



In addition, I will be making some modifications to the kit as I go along based on the inspiration of these two photos of F2s in Afrika found using Google Image search along with the configurations provided in the Bison markings sheet.





And, just to make things interesting...my wife asked me the other day how much time it takes me to do a build project...and I could only guess, so this one will be more "precisely" documented as part of the build log process to include total time per update/session as well as "time to date" in the posts. To be honest, I'm a little curious myself! I won't include time spent "waiting" for things like paint to dry or cure, etc. only actual time building or actively working on this project.



So, with that lengthy introduction...here's the first installment. I began with Step 1 which deals with the road wheels, sprockets and idlers. The sprockets were assembled with their 4 parts x 2 (two halves, hub, and back insert) as were the idlers (2 x 2 parts). The return rollers (8 x 2) first had their mold seams sanded down and then were assembled, and the road wheel halves (32) also had their seams sanded down and their hubs (16) added but left separate to facilitate painting later on. That makes for a total of 76 parts for this first step...and it's as far as I got today.



Total time: 3.25 hours

Total time to date: 3.25 hours

right back at er' eh bill? good luck on this build , looks promising

A great kit and a great idea. Should turn out looking pretty good Bill. I'll be following this one.

intreasting bill

are you going to have it destroyed or abandoned?

Hi Bill. Really looking forward to seeing the tropen scheme. With a kit that should be a dream to build ... you can focus on the painting and weathering. Chipping this time??

Great idea with documenting the build time,I will be following this build closely. Do you plan on doing a wreck or some minor damage? Looking foward to reading and seeing more on this buid.

Rob

Patrick

No rest for the weary! I practice a "ro-ro" (roll on-roll off) approach to build projects, so as soon as one completes, another starts! I've got a full week of vacation related to the holidays left and intend to make the most of it.

Dean appreciate the interest and hope you enjoy the ride!




Frank, I've built the IV-G Smart Kit before and it was a dream to assemble, so I'm looking forward to this one as well. There won't be the heavy "sand-blasted" chipping ala whitewash that is the dominant pattern among modelers for DAK schemes...after all, the "Tropen" scheme was applied at the factory before units were shipped off so it would be much more durable than the early-days field-applied or coated-mud type schemes, so the weathering won't be as heavy as the prevailing school of thought would like I think.

James, Rob,

This one won't be a wreck, the photos I posted (even though they are wrecks) are of interest because of the individualized modifications they are sporting in regards to tool placement, spare wheel mounts, spare track extra armor, etc. The F2s have a lot of potential there even among vehicles in the same unit and the DML kit provides many of the parts to achieve them already but doesn't call them out in the instructions in any form or fashion, so I had to do a little detective work on my own and this is what turned up.

oo i get you =]

nice im going to start my panzer III Ausf N

do you use an airbrush?

For a minute there Bill I thought you were going to take a crack at a wrecked tank, just remember Panzer 4 Henk will be watching.

Off to the races again ha Bill? Hey to make it easier, with all the James here. List me as Jimz66 or JimZ what ever is easier for you.

On a regular basis. My preferred airbrush is the Aztek A470 double-action...others malign it but I like it and get good results with it...it's been my airbrush for several years now.




Wrecks inevitably require a base or dio so that nixes that for me. I'll keep my out for Henk since the Pz IV bait has been set.




No problem JimZ, got to keep busy and make the best of the available time after all!

What mixture do you use for thinner and accrylic?

if you want to call me by m call sign it al make things easier as
there are a few of james's on here

Newfish, I don't use acrylics so can't really help you there. When I thin enamels through the airbrush, it depends on the paint itself but will usually thin to get a consistency similar to that of milk. I always test spray first before committing to paint on the model. HTH.

ahh okaybill but thanks anywayy , update on my ausf N its going to be in kursk =]

thats all ive decided

This looks to be a very interesting build, Bill, I always liked the Pz IV so will be tagging along on this one! I'll be looking forward to your personal additions to the kit, and keeping tab of time is a great bonus as it's something I've wondered about myself! Enjoy your productive time off

I personally am on pins-and-needles waiting for DML to go ahead and release their H or J...I know they've got the H cooking because they keep tantalizing us with bits and pieces here and there with other kits...I know it's coming, it's just a question of when! I'm dying to do an H festooned with Pz III/IV and T-34 links but have held off using an older kit when I know it's just a matter of time for DML to release one.

Moving right along, work continued today with Step 2. This step has 2 sub-assemblies which deal with the bow and rear hull plates. The bow plate received the tow bracket mounts and hooks while the rear plate was assembled from 3 parts.



These were then installed along with the front halves of the final drive mount plates to the lower hull.



Step 3 addresses more elements of the suspension and also has 2 sub-assemblies, one for the final drive housings and one for the two-part assembles for the 10 bump stops. The armored housing for the front of the final drive is actually 3 parts that assemble smoothly, just a little bit of sanding required where the top and bottom halves meet on the outer surface.



The rest of the step installs the previous sub-assemblies along with the mounts for the suspension elements and the rear tow hooks. The side fuel filler caps are also installed.



Step 4 addresses the details for the rear hull plate and, you guessed it!, has two sub-assembly steps which deal with the multi-part muffler/exhaust and the idler mounts. The muffler consists of 7 parts and goes together well, the only modification I made was to widen the hollow opening for the exhaust pipe a bit with a drill bit and round needle file.

I also assembled the two-part turret traverse motor exhaust and drilled out it's molded solid exhaust pipe with a #80 micro-drill bit.



One thing I should've paid a bit more attention to was the "handed" nature of the idler mounts...they are designed to only fit one side or the other and when I installed the small angled pieces I didn't check that first and so installed them upside down in the previous photo. That was fixed before installation and the hollow lower hole re-drilled out a bit to repair some of the slight glue damage that resulted.

I installed the main and auxiliary exhausts along with the cooling filler pipe and cap and chose the middle version of the tow pintle as a compromise between the three versions offered.



Step 5 is a fairly simple step, it assembles the glacis plate out of two parts and the option is presented to open up the holes for the spare track run. Photos of F2s show some had it, some didn't...and the two reference photos I'm using split the difference between have/have not so I decided to go ahead and fit it. The track run itself will be fitted later after painting. The brake access hatches had their armored covers added and the hatches installed to complete the step.



Step 6 is a busy step...it essentially installs all of the suspension and running gear. I only installed the suspension elements but left off the road wheels, sprockets, and idlers for later. Since the sprue here is a common one with this kit and the G, make sure you choose the right circular caps by following the call-out in the instructions as the two types are side-by-side and it's easy to clip off the wrong ones if you aren't paying attention.

The glacis plate was also installed in this step to round things out.



Next up will be fitting the fenders and then on to the upper hull!

Total session time: 5.25 hours

Total time to date: 8.50 hours

She's coming along Bill. Your build log is the first thing I check when i'm on this site. The pics are top notch, and show every detail, thanks. I'll will be ordering that kit this week for a future build (wreck).

Rob

this is coming along the rear deck looks very crisp =]

Coming along nicely Bill.

Darryl

Looking good as always, Bill!

Darryl, were you aware that your last name is finnish origin?

Thanks Rob! This kit (like the G) builds pretty smoothly and the design takes into consideration those who might want to add an interior IMHO in the way the lower hull is designed. Ought to make for a fine foundation for a wreck in your capable hands!

Newfish, Darryl, Tuomas, thanks for the comments!

Thanks Bill,your too kind. I can't wait to build (wreck) the F and G versions, I've been planning ahead.
How are things in Texas? I was stationed in El Paso for a year. Do they still have the model club there?
Happy new year to you and your family, and keep on building.

Rob

Hi Bill, I was wondering when you'd start a desert tank after reading the tropen scheme thread. That kind of detective work from old photos and documents I find very interesting. Looking forward to this I might even be inspired to break out a Pzr IV..........or maybe not

Rob,

Ft. Bliss is getting ready to grow in a major way...some 12-14,000 additional soldiers will be stationed there by 2012 so a lot going on as a result. Weather is typical for this time of year. As for the IPMS Club, it's still going strong but mostly populated with aircraft guys.




Pat, you could always pair it up with one of the recent Shermans and no one would be the wiser as to your "motivations". I've enjoyed the digging on the "Tropen" scheme and the F2 is the lucky candidate...it's a good one because it provides a lot of interesting latitude which sparked even more interest for me vs. a straight-up build.