Dioramas
Do you love dioramas & vignettes? We sure do.
Do you love dioramas & vignettes? We sure do.
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"Tea with Mr Putin..." Russian T-90A Diorama
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 05:34 AM UTC
No worries Ryan, thanks for the heads up all the same. Much appreciated!
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 09:00 AM UTC
Ordered a few things online over the Christmas period and hope to have those soon. I received already my Mig accessories, and should get the Royal Model stuff soon. I'm also waiting on some plus model parts and some various bits and pieces including some of Vallejo's Still water. Having seen Still water used so well on Alexandre's Pripyat Dio I decided to give it a shot myself! 
First up here's the Mig item, their Modern Street Lamp set:
I probably won't be using these fully built as I plan to have one wrecked and damaged o the ground. Here are some close ups of the detail and the wiring and cables I've added to the damaged parts. All in all it's a good set I think and not too expensive at all, the only frustrating thing is a lack of clear resin components for the bulbs and the glass domes. These are left in the same resin as the remainder of the kit and is quite disappointing. Adding clear Resin parts for these would be only a small extra on Mig's part, but one that would make it a much better set I think.
I've also built up the two Battalion figures, who aside from some tidying up on the filling are both pretty much done:
These were great to build and the detail fantastic. One little touch that I really love is the extra ammo belts that are hug around the necks.
Lastly for now, a quick photo of one of my Christmas presents, slightly off topic
:
I'll be heading off to the Art store when the shops re-open to get myself some Gesso and some other materials to use on the buildings. Should help me to add to the internal texture of the apartment block.
First up here's the Mig item, their Modern Street Lamp set:
I probably won't be using these fully built as I plan to have one wrecked and damaged o the ground. Here are some close ups of the detail and the wiring and cables I've added to the damaged parts. All in all it's a good set I think and not too expensive at all, the only frustrating thing is a lack of clear resin components for the bulbs and the glass domes. These are left in the same resin as the remainder of the kit and is quite disappointing. Adding clear Resin parts for these would be only a small extra on Mig's part, but one that would make it a much better set I think.
I've also built up the two Battalion figures, who aside from some tidying up on the filling are both pretty much done:
These were great to build and the detail fantastic. One little touch that I really love is the extra ammo belts that are hug around the necks.
Lastly for now, a quick photo of one of my Christmas presents, slightly off topic
: I'll be heading off to the Art store when the shops re-open to get myself some Gesso and some other materials to use on the buildings. Should help me to add to the internal texture of the apartment block.
jba
Joined: November 04, 2005
KitMaker: 1,845 posts
Armorama: 777 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 08:24 PM UTC
wow what a great Christmas present, I fear you must only put some outlaw alcohol inside of it 
i'm still following; if you have a Dremel and feel like it that would be the top thing to just wipe out those ugly bulbs.. As they would probably be broken in a street fight anyway..
I didn't comment much on your buildings but well, they really look good!
i'm still following; if you have a Dremel and feel like it that would be the top thing to just wipe out those ugly bulbs.. As they would probably be broken in a street fight anyway..
I didn't comment much on your buildings but well, they really look good!
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 08:54 PM UTC
Hi Jon !
The buildings look much better with those sharp edges
Well done !
I love the ditching log too - a stick from the garden is it ?
Is that PE you've used on the 'drum bases' ?
Those figures really are beautifully sculpted !! This dio will be brilliant !
Cheers
Paul
The buildings look much better with those sharp edges
Well done !I love the ditching log too - a stick from the garden is it ?
Is that PE you've used on the 'drum bases' ?
Those figures really are beautifully sculpted !! This dio will be brilliant !
Cheers
Paul
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 01:34 AM UTC
Thanks JB! I'm glad you like the flask! It was a gift from my wife , I will definitely have to find some good Vodka to put in it!
I agree about the bulbs, actually I recently ordered some Transparent Polyester Foil for making Plastic Canopies from Plus model. I'm hoping to try to use the resin parts to shape this and include the transparent foil in it's place. I've never worked with this foil before but I assume you can also cut it up easily to represent smashed glass? As you say the bulbs are likely to be blown out during fighting so having a smashed glass bulb would be a really nice little detail.
Thanks also for your kind words on the building, thats much appreciated coming from a modeller like yourself. For me it was quite a challenge as it was my first step to try scratch built buildings, so I'm glad it wasn't a total disaster as I feared it might be!
I'm trying to get myself some tempera paint at the moment as I saw a great trick in the "let's build Diorama" book that involved using Tempera paint to replicate peeling and chipped wall plaster. I'd like to try that on the interior to add some extra texture and damage.
Thanks for the kind words Paul. The log is just a small stick yes, I took the plastic tamiya log with me and rummaged through some sticks to find one the right thickness and length. I think real wood always looks better than imitation wood, and it also lets to damage and distress the ends easily.
As to the fuel drums that not quite as fancy as photo etch I'm afraid. Again it's another budget alternative, I used a thick tin foil used in kitchens and shaped it over the plastic Tamiya parts. For two reasons mostly, firstly I wanted a better metallic texture and I felt that the foil gave a good chance at weathered metal panels, and most importantly I used it to hide some parts of the drums I wasn't happy with. I found the fit was really bad on these drums, and some plastic glue seeped through the edge melting the detail a little. I tried sanding it down once dry to tidy it up, but I just wasn't happy with the "accident" and used the foil to cover and hide these parts. Sort of killed two birds with one stone.
, I will definitely have to find some good Vodka to put in it! I agree about the bulbs, actually I recently ordered some Transparent Polyester Foil for making Plastic Canopies from Plus model. I'm hoping to try to use the resin parts to shape this and include the transparent foil in it's place. I've never worked with this foil before but I assume you can also cut it up easily to represent smashed glass? As you say the bulbs are likely to be blown out during fighting so having a smashed glass bulb would be a really nice little detail.
Thanks also for your kind words on the building, thats much appreciated coming from a modeller like yourself. For me it was quite a challenge as it was my first step to try scratch built buildings, so I'm glad it wasn't a total disaster as I feared it might be!
I'm trying to get myself some tempera paint at the moment as I saw a great trick in the "let's build Diorama" book that involved using Tempera paint to replicate peeling and chipped wall plaster. I'd like to try that on the interior to add some extra texture and damage.
Thanks for the kind words Paul. The log is just a small stick yes, I took the plastic tamiya log with me and rummaged through some sticks to find one the right thickness and length. I think real wood always looks better than imitation wood, and it also lets to damage and distress the ends easily.
As to the fuel drums that not quite as fancy as photo etch I'm afraid. Again it's another budget alternative, I used a thick tin foil used in kitchens and shaped it over the plastic Tamiya parts. For two reasons mostly, firstly I wanted a better metallic texture and I felt that the foil gave a good chance at weathered metal panels, and most importantly I used it to hide some parts of the drums I wasn't happy with. I found the fit was really bad on these drums, and some plastic glue seeped through the edge melting the detail a little. I tried sanding it down once dry to tidy it up, but I just wasn't happy with the "accident" and used the foil to cover and hide these parts. Sort of killed two birds with one stone.
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 02:24 AM UTC
Time for a quick update. I've finally finished the T-90, which is now ready for priming before painting:
Scale comparison with the tank commander
As far as painting goes I've been discussing colour matches with different people here on the Forum via PM's and I've had some great feedback and ideas. Simon used Gunze oils in his recent T-90 build and Anton used a Russian brand of paints called Akan... unfortunately I don't have access to either companies products, so I've been studying my reference images very closely and have been able to pin down some different Tamiya and Vallejo colours that seem to be good matches. This actually works out okay as I will be painting a camo scheme thats slightly different from the usual examples where the base colour is mostly khaki. I will be basing my T-90 from these examples that feature a predominately darker green base with black ad light green camo layered over the top. Photo for discussion only of course, copyright the original photographer:
Scale comparison with the tank commander
As far as painting goes I've been discussing colour matches with different people here on the Forum via PM's and I've had some great feedback and ideas. Simon used Gunze oils in his recent T-90 build and Anton used a Russian brand of paints called Akan... unfortunately I don't have access to either companies products, so I've been studying my reference images very closely and have been able to pin down some different Tamiya and Vallejo colours that seem to be good matches. This actually works out okay as I will be painting a camo scheme thats slightly different from the usual examples where the base colour is mostly khaki. I will be basing my T-90 from these examples that feature a predominately darker green base with black ad light green camo layered over the top. Photo for discussion only of course, copyright the original photographer:
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 07:47 AM UTC
After searching round London for ages I finally found an art store that sells Egg Tempera paint, and was eager to try the tip that I saw in "Let's build Diorama". In the book the author covers using thick coats of Tempera paint to make cracked and damaged plaster on walls. I played around with the paint a bit and tried the technique a few times on a sample and found that as well as plaster you could get a great peeling and damaged surface paint effect.
I decided in the end to make a heavily weathered and damaged interior, one that unlike the exterior wasn't built for the outside elements. I wanted to re-create the bubbled and peeling damage you get when ordinary indoor household paint is exposed to water and damp. I also wanted to get the blistered effect where surface plaster and paint blisters away from the wall before cracking and falling away. In the end I was very happy with the end result and the surface texture, deliberately making something that looked ugly and ravaged was really good fun!
I would totally recommend Tempera paint to anyone for doing these kinds of weathering and damage, it really is very diverse and useful stuff.
Here's a selection of the furniture that will be used in the outside area in the diorama. A mix of scratch built chairs and table with two sofa chairs from Plus model.
I decided in the end to make a heavily weathered and damaged interior, one that unlike the exterior wasn't built for the outside elements. I wanted to re-create the bubbled and peeling damage you get when ordinary indoor household paint is exposed to water and damp. I also wanted to get the blistered effect where surface plaster and paint blisters away from the wall before cracking and falling away. In the end I was very happy with the end result and the surface texture, deliberately making something that looked ugly and ravaged was really good fun!
I would totally recommend Tempera paint to anyone for doing these kinds of weathering and damage, it really is very diverse and useful stuff.
Here's a selection of the furniture that will be used in the outside area in the diorama. A mix of scratch built chairs and table with two sofa chairs from Plus model.
muchachos
Joined: May 21, 2008
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 09:01 AM UTC
How did you do that, with the tempera paint? Did you just apply a really thick layer? It looks absolutely sublime. 
SCOTT
SCOTT
marcoeldragon
Joined: November 12, 2008
KitMaker: 33 posts
Armorama: 32 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 12:54 PM UTC
truely amazing work so far. Please keep us updated.
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 08:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
As far as painting goes I've been discussing colour matches with different people here on the Forum via PM's and I've had some great feedback and ideas. Simon used Gunze oils in his recent T-90 build and Anton used a Russian brand of paints called Akan... unfortunately I don't have access to either companies products, so I've been studying my reference images very closely and have been able to pin down some different Tamiya and Vallejo colours that seem to be good matches. This actually works out okay as I will be painting a camo scheme thats slightly different from the usual examples where the base colour is mostly khaki. I will be basing my T-90 from these examples that feature a predominately darker green base with black ad light green camo layered over the top. Photo for discussion only of course, copyright the original photographer:
I love that Camo scheme Jon.
Be sure to post your mix formula's, I'd like to know what you come up with...
Cheers
Paul
shopkin4
Joined: March 29, 2009
KitMaker: 1,135 posts
Armorama: 1,030 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 09:11 PM UTC
Really amazing work. I really can't wait to see the conclusion of this.
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 31, 2009 - 04:34 AM UTC
Thanks for the kind comments guys.
Scott - The tempera trick is explained really well in "lets build diorama". If you want thick plaster you paint on a thick layer straight from the tube. I found though that if you apply a thin layer you can get these peeled paint look as well. It's actually really easy to do and is great fun. For the areas you want to peel apply the paint neat from the tube, for areas you want to remain whole and intact thin the paint with a little water. This will make the Tempera "set" to the surface. Leave the paint a few minutes, then take a wooden stick with a large round flat end (I used the handle end of a wooden kitchen spoon) then lightly tap the surface areas you want to chip and peel. You will find that the "neat" Tempera will stick to the wood and get ripped off easily. You can also use a hair dryer to speed things up and get other effects such as bubbling and cracking to the surface.
Paul - Will do, I'l be using Tamiya paints mostly I think as I found some good matches in that range. I'll post a "cook book" later when I start painting. I've actually already primed the tank and have started painting the figures. Will post pictures soon.
Mark, Sean - Thanks very much I'll do my best to solider on!
Only expecting one more parcel now from Royal Model then I will have all my parts for the ground work and buildings.
Scott - The tempera trick is explained really well in "lets build diorama". If you want thick plaster you paint on a thick layer straight from the tube. I found though that if you apply a thin layer you can get these peeled paint look as well. It's actually really easy to do and is great fun. For the areas you want to peel apply the paint neat from the tube, for areas you want to remain whole and intact thin the paint with a little water. This will make the Tempera "set" to the surface. Leave the paint a few minutes, then take a wooden stick with a large round flat end (I used the handle end of a wooden kitchen spoon) then lightly tap the surface areas you want to chip and peel. You will find that the "neat" Tempera will stick to the wood and get ripped off easily. You can also use a hair dryer to speed things up and get other effects such as bubbling and cracking to the surface.
Paul - Will do, I'l be using Tamiya paints mostly I think as I found some good matches in that range. I'll post a "cook book" later when I start painting. I've actually already primed the tank and have started painting the figures. Will post pictures soon.
Mark, Sean - Thanks very much I'll do my best to solider on!
Only expecting one more parcel now from Royal Model then I will have all my parts for the ground work and buildings.
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 31, 2009 - 10:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Paul - Will do, I'l be using Tamiya paints mostly I think as I found some good matches in that range. I'll post a "cook book" later when I start painting. I've actually already primed the tank and have started painting the figures. Will post pictures soon.
Thanks Jon,
I'll also be interested in how you do the LHS of the machine - do you have reference pics of that side
Cheers
Pau
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 01:46 AM UTC
No worries Paul. I've got a few different angles of the tank from these pictures, so luckily I have shots of both sides so I can follow the camo pattern all over. You're have to forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by LHS?
The T-90 is now primed and ready for action, so I can start airbrushing the base colours today (at last!). The model was primed with a mix of Mr Resin Primer for the large Resin elements and Tamiya Superfine Grey Primer for the plastic and metal and to also blend everything together. It's the first time I've used Tamiya's spray primer and I'd definitely use it again, went on really nicely.
I've also started the long and very time consuming process of painting the figures skin tones with oils...
The T-90 is now primed and ready for action, so I can start airbrushing the base colours today (at last!). The model was primed with a mix of Mr Resin Primer for the large Resin elements and Tamiya Superfine Grey Primer for the plastic and metal and to also blend everything together. It's the first time I've used Tamiya's spray primer and I'd definitely use it again, went on really nicely.
I've also started the long and very time consuming process of painting the figures skin tones with oils...
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 09:46 AM UTC
Sorry Jon I didn't make that clear....
I use so many abbreviations at work that I tend to use them everywhere now !
LHS = Left hand Side. It seems you go my point though
I like the skin tones you've managed on the 'tanker' what mix of oils is that ?
Cheers
Paul
I use so many abbreviations at work that I tend to use them everywhere now !
LHS = Left hand Side. It seems you go my point though
I like the skin tones you've managed on the 'tanker' what mix of oils is that ?
Cheers
Paul
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 12:09 PM UTC
No worries Paul, seems I was stumped by the simplest of things!
The skin tones have just started in these pics. I've been following the advice of Mark Bannerman, in his excellent book "modelling panzer crewmen of the Heer" (there are also a bunch of his articles over on Missing Lynx) The skin was airbrushed Tamiya Desert Yellow, then given a wash of Burnt Umber oil paint. A few hours later I gave it a second wash of Burnt Sienna Oil paint, a few hours after that I mixed the base skin tone from Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, and Titanium White 2:1:4 ratio.
Since these pics I've added some highlights with more titanium white mixed into the base skin tone, tomorrow I'm hoping to pick out some more of the facial details with some pin washes of raw umber and paynes grey for the shadows. Then start adding on some of the details such as rosy cheeks, lip, eyes, stubble etc.
I really like the effects you can get with oils and the blending that you can do, the only down side is the long work times and drying times between stages. That was quite a shock for me at first, coming from a purely acrylic background.
The skin tones have just started in these pics. I've been following the advice of Mark Bannerman, in his excellent book "modelling panzer crewmen of the Heer" (there are also a bunch of his articles over on Missing Lynx) The skin was airbrushed Tamiya Desert Yellow, then given a wash of Burnt Umber oil paint. A few hours later I gave it a second wash of Burnt Sienna Oil paint, a few hours after that I mixed the base skin tone from Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, and Titanium White 2:1:4 ratio.
Since these pics I've added some highlights with more titanium white mixed into the base skin tone, tomorrow I'm hoping to pick out some more of the facial details with some pin washes of raw umber and paynes grey for the shadows. Then start adding on some of the details such as rosy cheeks, lip, eyes, stubble etc.
I really like the effects you can get with oils and the blending that you can do, the only down side is the long work times and drying times between stages. That was quite a shock for me at first, coming from a purely acrylic background.
shopkin4
Joined: March 29, 2009
KitMaker: 1,135 posts
Armorama: 1,030 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 12:34 PM UTC
Epic work on that T-90 thus far. Did you ever happen to finish the T55 diorama? Also I may have missed it but do you think you could tell me what you did to construct your building? I'll be beginning mine either tonight or tomorrow depending on if I need to make a trip to the art store.
BTW if looks as if your built that model for Miniarm's website. Epic work to say the least.
BTW if looks as if your built that model for Miniarm's website. Epic work to say the least.
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 12:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
No worries Paul, seems I was stumped by the simplest of things!
The skin tones have just started in these pics. I've been following the advice of Mark Bannerman, in his excellent book "modelling panzer crewmen of the Heer" (there are also a bunch of his articles over on Missing Lynx) The skin was airbrushed Tamiya Desert Yellow, then given a wash of Burnt Umber oil paint. A few hours later I gave it a second wash of Burnt Sienna Oil paint, a few hours after that I mixed the base skin tone from Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, and Titanium White 2:1:4 ratio.
Since these pics I've added some highlights with more titanium white mixed into the base skin tone, tomorrow I'm hoping to pick out some more of the facial details with some pin washes of raw umber and paynes grey for the shadows. Then start adding on some of the details such as rosy cheeks, lip, eyes, stubble etc.
I really like the effects you can get with oils and the blending that you can do, the only down side is the long work times and drying times between stages. That was quite a shock for me at first, coming from a purely acrylic background.
Thanks Jon,
I've been using Vallejo Acrylics, but I'm keen to try Oils. I 'll get that book and do a bit of reading....
Cheers,
Paul
xsoft_ej
Joined: March 21, 2009
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 17 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 05:26 PM UTC
jon, what a beautiful work are you doing here, its a master class for me, I'm a completely newbie here and in the hobby i have just 18 months give more or less, and this kind of work just make me want to improve my work. I want to add some to your work if is not too late: i think the tick of the steel rods is too much, the concrete floor usually are (here in my country) 6" to 10" and the steel roods are not more than a 1" diameter and have veins, and over the concrete can put some tiles.
Well, i hope not make you mad about my 2 cents and expect to see your work finished.
by the way i will use you figure painting as a guide (hope you post more pics)
sorry by my english
happy new year
Well, i hope not make you mad about my 2 cents and expect to see your work finished.
by the way i will use you figure painting as a guide (hope you post more pics)
sorry by my english
happy new year
jba
Joined: November 04, 2005
KitMaker: 1,845 posts
Armorama: 777 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 05:25 AM UTC
What splendid figures! the face of the tanker has got an amazing character, now just watch your pocket clock and feel drowsy and repeat after me "I am not in a hurry, this is good material and I ought to take the time it will take for those to be real great"
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 07:28 AM UTC
Thanks Sean, thats very kind of you, but honestly there are more impressive T-90 builds in the Russo-Soviet Forum, Simon and Anton's for example are great works. The building is made from cut and thinned plasterboard, if you have any specific questions at all drop me a PM ad I'll be happy to help. 'm far from an expert on scratching buildings but I'll try to share my experiences and the problems/issues I came up against etc.
As for the T-55 yes thats actually finished, I'm just waiting for my new Actulite Daylight lamp to arrive in the post before I take the final pictures of that.
Paul good luck! It certainly is daunting at first but once you start I think the results are really worth it. Having said that you can still get amazing results with Acrylics too, Calvin Tan for example does amazing skin tones with Acrylics.
Hi Edson thanks for the comments! I was considering tiles for the interior myself too, in the end though I decided on going with the peeling paint effect. Thats a good point about the steel rods as well, actually I would have liked to have found something that had that ribbed texture, but I couldn't think of a way to do it i scale and keep it looking good. As for the thickness, maybe, unfortunately I only had one thickness of plastic rod, I think next time I'd try to use some thinner brass rod or something.
Hope to see some of your work on the forums, do you have any projects running at the moment?
Jean-Bernard thank you! You are too kind! For sure painting figures with oils has taught me a new level of patience. I made the mistake of going to fast before once and it took me double the time to fix it! So you are absolutely right!
As for the T-55 yes thats actually finished, I'm just waiting for my new Actulite Daylight lamp to arrive in the post before I take the final pictures of that.
Paul good luck! It certainly is daunting at first but once you start I think the results are really worth it. Having said that you can still get amazing results with Acrylics too, Calvin Tan for example does amazing skin tones with Acrylics.
Hi Edson thanks for the comments! I was considering tiles for the interior myself too, in the end though I decided on going with the peeling paint effect. Thats a good point about the steel rods as well, actually I would have liked to have found something that had that ribbed texture, but I couldn't think of a way to do it i scale and keep it looking good. As for the thickness, maybe, unfortunately I only had one thickness of plastic rod, I think next time I'd try to use some thinner brass rod or something.
Hope to see some of your work on the forums, do you have any projects running at the moment?
Jean-Bernard thank you! You are too kind! For sure painting figures with oils has taught me a new level of patience. I made the mistake of going to fast before once and it took me double the time to fix it!
So you are absolutely right!xsoft_ej
Joined: March 21, 2009
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 17 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 07:48 AM UTC
Jon, yes i have 3 models in the works an aircraft carrier Kittyhawk (a totaly paint disaster) an sherman that want to make in winter paint (hope can do it) and my very first atemp to make a diorama with a m113 personal carrier ( a very nice kit from academy) but have budget problems, so i make all my stuff from materials i found around mi home and work, like stones, computer cables matchsticks, trees, soil and paper tissues and sandpaper.
hopping not to disturb any one i post a pic of my m113 (remember mi work is very low level yet)
are you going to keep posting pics of the job paint in the figures, i use only brush but i want to learn how to make the figures look good.
hopping not to disturb any one i post a pic of my m113 (remember mi work is very low level yet)
are you going to keep posting pics of the job paint in the figures, i use only brush but i want to learn how to make the figures look good.
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 08:03 AM UTC
Hi Edson, nice M113! Actually I think to be honest some of the best materials are the cheapest and most widely available. For example I made wide use of cheap supplies in this project. Most of it from the home, garden, or cheap materials from home improvement stores. Match stick furniture, garden sticks and twigs for trees, household filler and cheap PVA glue from a local craft store. Expensive isn't always best!
Actually I came from a brush painting background. When I used to paint fantasy and sci-fi figures and models I never used an airbrush. To be honest I only started using an airbrush when I started working with 1:35 scale kits. You can still get fantastic results by brush painting. I've seen lots of breathtaking sci-fi kits that have been totally brush painted and they looked fantastic. As for the figures in this project, sure I will be posting photos from different stages. The figures will be totally brush painted. If you ever have any questions feel free to drop me a PM.
Actually I came from a brush painting background. When I used to paint fantasy and sci-fi figures and models I never used an airbrush. To be honest I only started using an airbrush when I started working with 1:35 scale kits. You can still get fantastic results by brush painting. I've seen lots of breathtaking sci-fi kits that have been totally brush painted and they looked fantastic. As for the figures in this project, sure I will be posting photos from different stages. The figures will be totally brush painted. If you ever have any questions feel free to drop me a PM.
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 08:11 AM UTC
Time for a quick update, I've finally been able to make some work on the T-90 paintwork.
After a few light coats of the base colour:
Starting the camo pattern, first stage, tomorrow I'll be adding the black camo patterns:
I was lucky to have photos of the original tank from a few different angles, but unfortunately there are still a few points in the images that are a little unclear. For example I didn't have a clear shot of the engine deck so I've had to use a little logical deduction and some artistic license in some areas to finish the pattern all over the tank. Luckily the black areas are quite easily visible so those camo shapes should be a lot easier to fill in.
After a few light coats of the base colour:
Starting the camo pattern, first stage, tomorrow I'll be adding the black camo patterns:
I was lucky to have photos of the original tank from a few different angles, but unfortunately there are still a few points in the images that are a little unclear. For example I didn't have a clear shot of the engine deck so I've had to use a little logical deduction and some artistic license in some areas to finish the pattern all over the tank. Luckily the black areas are quite easily visible so those camo shapes should be a lot easier to fill in.
Antoniovelazquez1
Joined: August 29, 2007
KitMaker: 11 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
KitMaker: 11 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 02:50 AM UTC
Awesome job, Jon...Wich are the paint references for this model?
Best Regards
Antonio Velázquez
Best Regards
Antonio Velázquez
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