Tom, if they are anything like the Mini Art Russian field kitchen, bravery is the key The horror

Hello,

Man that torpedo emblem is one torture! And, why the need to have that Olympia badge in PE? Anyways, I made good progress over the weekend by completing most what can be built together prior to the painting stage. I still need to figure out how to add volume on the canvas cover as it looks more like a stick of gum to me. Will go back to that later.

For the meantime these are due to be primed:



I was quite pleased surviving the PE build part, as this is one area my clumsy hands are not too excited about. Add to that is working with CA. I was able to build all that was required except for the Notek's bracket -- as I successfully managed to transform it into a fine work of abstract brass art!



So it was either I junk the Notek altogether (yeah the lamp itself had to come in two pieces, great!), or make a bracket in styrene. I've thinned to it as much as I can manage, -- I guess it looks the part:



Better run off and get me a some rattlecan primer...

Cheers,

Tat

PS -- Tom, thanks for the tip on the usage of Gator Glue. I was able to make use of it during PE work.

Hey Tat, your project is turning out great. The bracket you scratched out of styrene looks fine. I don't know what brand of CA that you are using, but I'd like to recommend the use of disposable pipettes that you attach to the nozzle of the glue bottle. It allows for smaller drops, precision application, extension for hard to reach areas, and max use of bottle. When the tip gets clogged you can cut it off and start anew. I find it key, cause I use CA a lot. The brand that I use is made by Zap (flexi tips), part#21 comes in a pack of 24. If you do research you could probably find similar product Good luck pare, until next time...

Hello,

Roland, thanks for the tip -- will do a check on that.

Am still figuring out how best to improve the canvas top. I tried aluminum foil but couldn't seem to get it look right. Maybe the soda can provides a better material source.

Having, read thru some tips, I thought of putting my spring roll wrapping technique to the test









I used wet tissue and made a couple of samples to try it out. Still have to do the water + white glue solution. I just find it a bit on the thick side (???)

For now it seems to be the viable option for me. Any other suggestions most welcome.

Cheers,

Tat

Hi Tat,

Looking good! (I'm glad I'm not the only one struggling with the tiny parts!) If you look real close you'd see my front number plate is sat on a block of Evergreen instead of the crazy PE - Bronco has a real PE addiction.

Your cloth top looks ok - it'll thin out and look more "heavy" once you soak it with the glue. I may yet regret going with the kit part...

As for progress updates, I took advantage of a rare visitor to these British shores (the sun!) and coated my kit with primer. Next I need to clear the bench for my spray booth!

Tom

Thanks Tom.

Ah yes the sun -- I was told that folks over there go out in a mad rush to bask in such short periods of warmth resulting to traffic jams

I noticed that you had some clear parts on -- side mirror and tail lights. This gets painted on when you prime? -- or do you mask it?

Cheers,

Tat

Hey Tom, Everybody.
I figured that I would build this

Considering my rate of completion, I figured a earlier attempt than the last week and a half of the campaign may be a bit more beneficial?!
Also, considering that I actually pulled this kit out a couple of years back for the Not-Fighting-Vehicles campaign and actually looked through the directions, maybe I'll get the sprues out of the bags this go-around!
WooHoo
Charlie

Hi Charlie,

Welcome to the showroom! I won't comment on completion rates, living as I do in the proverbial "glass house" of campaign failures...

Tat, I added those rear lights and the mirror because I figured they'd be a nightmare to glue securely if the body was already painted. I coated the back sides in silver paint and then masked the fronts with tape before spraying. If the paint seeps under, I'll just paint over the fronts with silver and gloss like I would if they weren't clear parts, so not much to lose... Of course, the reain has returned.

Tom

So, One toothache and two rainy days later and Voila... something that actually looks like a model!

Gotta love Tamiya for the shake and bake builds.
Charlie

Hi Charlie,

It's definitely getting there! (Been away from my internet this week...)

Tom

Hi all,

I was following this topic from the very beginning. Count me in with soviet GAZ M1.

I've bought this car at a very reasonable price so I don't complain about small amount of parts and almost empty interior. I would like to convert it into 4x4 version GAZ 61-73.






The model is based on alan's BA-20 and there is a lot to improve.
There is a big gap between the upper body and the lower part, so I had to cook the resin to make it fit together.

Hi Marek,

Welcome to the showroom! That's an interesting kit - I thought the floor looked familiar! (Got a BA-20 in the half-built pile...) I trust your pot of "car soup" turned out ok?

Tom

Hello everyone. lot of good builds going on here.

I've been working on my offering bit here and there. I'm building a Lindberg 1/32 scale 1940 Ford convertible as a staff car. My premise is it is one of those upper crust rich officer's who uses it to go play golf on the weekends in California or Hawaii. LOL

I think this kit was tooled in the 1950's, lots of Flash, ejector marks, only the very basic details, no chrome of any kind.. the entire kit is white plastic..

the start.




the build so far



I've always wanted to build one of these little kits, and I think I will be cured of that after this build.

Back in June I was at the Reading WWII Weekend and I finally got around to posting the photos of a 1940 Plymouth Staff Car on my website. Here is a link to the Gallery which is kind of a grand name for only 7 photos.

1940 Plymouth P10 Staff Car Gallery

till laters
Delbert

Thanks Tom. I've installed the clear parts as you mentioned above and did the same silver coating on its backsides. However come masking time, I just couldn't get either tape or blue-tac to sit and cover nicely So I just decided to let it get primed over and worry about it later.



I've also done some work on the straps for the canvas cover. Wasn't happy with the look of the strip of leftover brass I first used. Actually, I also needed a better medium (for my skill level) to scratch out the buckle, so I went for styrene. Looks wide for the scale though. Anyways I left it that as I just replicated the kit's molded strap.





What I wasn't expecting was the texture of the canvas cover I made -- as it now looks more like a burlap sack to me. It sure wasn't like that prior to priming.

I am thinking whether a coat of Mr Surfacer will make it less rough. Any of you folks have ideas / suggestions on a fix? TIA

Cheers,

Tat

Delbert, that car looks great! Pity they don't style 'em like that any more...

Tat, I think we'll both be painting over those clear parts! I see what you mean about the canvas - have you tried a light sanding followed by a thick coat of PVA glue? The aim is to smooth out the very rough fibres that look out of scale. Avoid getting too much on the straps so it doesn't smother the detail.

Still no movement on my own build - my excuse is I'm letting the primer harden!

Tom

Tom and Tat,
You both may know about this already but Grumbacher makes (or made) a liquid mask that may work well for what y'all are trying to do. You might want to check out a serious Art Supply store. Another alternative is plain old Rubber Cement.

This weekend I actually broke out the airbrush (sound the trumpets).

My first try with the Aztec I picked up on clearance and some Delta craft acrylics. Not too bad but it did have an issue with clogging using the fine tip at 20 psi.

Charlie

Hi Charlie, it's looking good! (I forgot about rubber cement as a mask...)

Tom

I just found this thread.. I have 1 or 2 vehicles that should be appropriate for this campaign, so, count me in..

Hi Warren,

Whatcha got in the stash?

Tom

I have just signed up.
I have never built a car before and I'm an amateur compared to you guys but i will give it a shot.

Going to build a Citroen Traction 11CV Staff Car.

Howdy Y'all
I've made some progress on my GAZ 67B, it's a nice little 1/48 Tamiya kit.

I'm enjoying the builds.
Take care,
Don "Lakota"

Hi Gary, that Citroen is a nice little car! I'm sure it'll be great - just make sure you have fun with it...

And Don, that Jeepski is pretty nice too. And with paint on, it's further along than mine! Gotta dig out my spray stuff this week...

Tom

I thought "German Gray" would be a good color for the tires. I don't really like the outcome and will repaint or wash with something more black in color.
Take care,
Don "Lakota"

Nice progress guys.

I got stuck on getting a smooth finish on the canvas cover I made out of paper+white glue. Tried on adding more white glue but didn't come out much better. So next came a brushed coat of Tamiya Surface Primer, but I finally moved on to just applying a thin layer of putty and sanded it. Looks the part, but I guess the better test is when I re-spray it with primer. Fingers-crossed, I hope it works so I can move on

Gary, I too have not built any car kit, and the Tamiya Citroen was one of my first choices. The LHS only had the 1/48 kit so I looked for other options. Good luck on your build!

Don, you may want to try Tamiya NATO Black. I've used it on occasions when I don't want it really black. Its shade is in-between German Gray and Black.

Cheers,

Tat

Thanks Tat
I tried Vallejo's "Dark Rubber" and it was practically the exact match to Tamiya's "German Gray". I think I'll leave it alone and weather the whole vehicle lower half. Next time I'll start with Nato Black. I'll need to put that in my book of tricks.
Take Care,
Don "Lakota"