Mauro- I can see what you mean about rust deoposits on those parts- they are probably not aluminium then but they do show a lot more metallic color than I have so I'll have to try and sort that out.

Scott- thanks for that- you could be right about that and if it was an AUX unit it would have to be better protected than with just aluminium as you said.

Also- a general question to anyone- the right angle pipe coming out of that unit and the square outlet grille just behind it appear very shiny- I've seen this on several more examples- is that some sort of protective paint/coating and if so was it normal practice to use it or was it more common to have it green like the rest of the tank?

T-64B


T-64E


T-64 BV


T-64A


T-64AB


Well. it seems to me that most of the time that tube has the same colors of the camo scheme
I've seen some other exemplars that didn't have that tube





Yes that's true, but those stains don't look as shiny as the cells were made on aluminum. Moreover, the stains don't have sharp boundaries. It looks as if the metal has emerged because the green paint has been worn rather than ripped away, so, in my humble opinion, it would be better if your chipping job was a bit shaded.

Anyway, I'm sure that eventually your job will be great!

Hi Karl,

I can only say following:

Wow! Top ! Incredible building performanc !.

Hope to see it on a diorama base with some late autumn static gras and leaves.

Hi Karl. You have done a very nice job on all areas building, painting and weathering. I like what i see very much! As for some details, like rust, chipping or paint wear, from personal experience on real ones, i can tell you that they differ a lot on the same type of tank, depending on the climate and use. So there are no ''standards'' for that. Looking forward to your next build.

Nenad- thanks for taking the time to check out the thread, your comments are very much appreciated. Plus you've given me an autumn scene to think about...some nice brown and yellow foliage could work really well with the green tank in the middle- plus at this time of year there's plenty of reference!

John- I appreciate your insight into the weathering seen on tanks due to how they are used, where they are used and by whom they are used. Thanks for commenting on the build log!

So a wee bit of an update regarding a filter. In my past several builds I have become quite fond of using grey filters- sometimes I make up my own from enamel paints (Humrbol) and other times I'll use a branded filter- a favourite of mine is Sin Industries Grey for Bright Green. I've used this on several camo schemes and it produces a nice faded effect.

I picked the area on top of the turret to show how three coats affects the overral tone of the model:

No filter:



First Coat:



Second Coat:



Third Coat:



The rest of the model was treated to three coats aswell:









A good thing about the Sin Industries filters is they dry very fast so you can do consequetive coats quite quickly. I find two coats is sometimes enough with home-mixed ones (using Humbrol Enamels) whereas with the Sin ones I usually do three coats. I also don't worry about it settling down in the recess' and detail areas- a dark pin wash will obscure it later.

Now- onto the re-chipping on the stowage boxes.

The first thing I did was to take some Citadel Chainmail and start carefully drybrushing the areas I had chipped on the AUX power unit (the bit at the rear right with the exhaust hole)- this appeared duller than any other parts on the left side. Once I'd established a nice mapping effect I used a sponge to add some more chips.

Further up on the stowage boxes I used Vallejo Natural Steel, first drybrushing and then using a sponge to create random chips and then a couple more added in with a fine brush.

Then, in order to blend things in with the rest of the tank, I applied a single coat of filter. (The rest of the model had already been given a dark wash so I might do a very light one on these parts later but to me they look okay at the minute- I will post some more pictures of the overral look of the model after I've finished the dark wash as I still have some areas to do).











So- let me know what you guys thing of these re-done parts.

Thanks for reading.

-KARL187-

Hi Karl,

that´s an outstanding job indeed. Very interesting and impressive to see final effects of using different filters.

I personally do not use filters, but work with oil paint from the art supply store. I dilute it with turpentine and place it on point by point. If I dilute with a little more turpentine, then I have a unevenly colored liquid. After drying, I have similar results as with the use of expensive filters.

Those photos of the fuel cells looks spot on! Excellent work Karl. The bare metal looks just right, and your filter had really helped to weather it down and darken it, but also helped to accentuate the the fine details on the kit. You must be mighty pleased with that!

Now it's great! This thread could be a tutorial about how to render the Russian green!

Really well done mate! I'll try to follow your steps when I make my job

Nenad- I've never used oils for a filter, I might give them a try- there's certainly a lot of scope for mixing custom colors with oils. Thanks for the comments!

Rob- Thanks a million mate- much appreciated.

Mauro- My sincere thanks my friend, you are too kind!

I will hopefully have some more updates soon but I have used Mig Productions Dark Wash for my pin wash and I find this stays workable for a good while so I like to give it a good drying period before I move on to anything else.

My freinds, apologies for the delay- I was away for a few days.

Hopefully that will have given the dark wash ample time to have dried! Here's how its looking:









My next step is Oil Paint Rendering- this is a technique by Mike Rinaldi that I first read about in an issue of Military Modelcraft International. There's also a nice SBS here at ML. This is a technique I've been wanting to try for a while and I think a nice Russian green will be an interesting project to use it on.

Anyway I'll keep the log updated as I go!

Thanks for reading.

-KARL187-

Excellent job!!

Looking forward for the finished model.

I'm eager to see your next step mate. Michael Rinaldi is one of my favorite modellers and I've already read about that technique (although I've never tried to use it). I'm quite curious too see how you'll apply the OPR on an old Russian gear!

Karl what can i say but wow another out standing build
keep it up
dave

Bloody beautiful work Karl!!! Luv what you have done with her.

Gary

Hi Karl,

oh my God, I can´t believe what I see.

If you now have the same success with the diorama base you can call yourself a doctor for T-64 tanks for real.

Raul- thanks for the comments !

Mauro- I've been wanting to try OPR for a while myself, I thought I had a nice candidate a couple of builds ago but I can't remember why I didn't have a go, so I thought this was a good project to do it on.

Dave- Many thanks for stopping by mate!

Gary- I'm glad you like her my freind!

Nenad- Too kind of you bud, thanks for taking the time to check out the recent updates.

So, on with the Oil Paint Rendering.

First step...failure...yes...failure. I got my pallete sorted:



Then I started to apply things as per Mike Rinaldi's SBS. Problem was I wasn't paying enough attention to some areas of his explanations- I think that was couple with the fact I have never really used oils in the manner that is required for this technique.

What kept happening was I wasn't using enough oil paint initially and I was using too much thinner on the blending brush- basically wiping off the oil paint and rendering it useless. Obviously in modelling some things don't always go to plan- I usually have two projects on the go so I move to another when I can to take a break and consider my mistakes.

After re-reading Mike's OPR SBS I felt confident I knew where I was going wrong so I tried again- using more oil paint in the initial application and less thinner (sometimes none) on the brush I was blending with.

My goals for OPR was to enhance the light and dark areas I had already outlined with color modulation- but also to add more depth to the finish and to add some dirt/dust and, lastly, to enhance the areas of chipping and rusting.

I decided to do a little SBS of what I got up to (although I must say I don't think my lighting set-up reflects some of the more subtle changes that this process has rendered):

Here is the area I'm concentrating on as it is before OPR:



First thing to do was to mix up a light green roughly the same shade as the color which I'd added the chipping with (Vallejo Pastel Green) and apply it generously over the chipped areas:



I then took a brush that had been pretty much totally dried of thinner and began blending using a stipling motion:



This result of this was to bring back somewhat the light green chips and provide a bit more depth to them:



Next up I decided to add some dark green to darken some areas:



This was quickly blending in before some black was added at the areas I wanted to be darkest.



The black was blending in before I added some white to areas I wanted to show conrast and some brightness:



I found the white takes a little more working than other colors to adequately blend it- I think I may have used a bit much initially which is why it took a little longer to blend in.



Then I decided to add some light dust/dirt to some areas (apologies for this somewhat out of focus picture):



This was then blended in:



A bright orange and dark red brown color were mixed to create a suitable rust shade and this was applied:



And then blended in:



Then a very dark brown was used on top of this:



And blended in:



I mostly used a stipling motion to do the blending but you can use a draging motion to areas where you might want to have streaks and I've done this in a few areas.

The finished area:







OPR definetly isn't something that can be done quickly- but at the same time it is actually quite relaxing to do and once you see the changes it becomes very enjoyable. So far I've been working on the hull and nearly have it done. Here are some pictures of the left side:









So I've a bit more work to do with OPR on the hull and then I will move on to the turret and maybe do another short SBS.

Again, my thanks for all the support in this thread and I hope you enjoy the updates. Thanks for reading.

-KARL187-

It sounds interesting indeed. I'll follow for sure. It looks very good so far

A couple of days ago I finished the Oil Paint Rendering process on the hull. It did take a while but, as I said before, it is quite a nice technique to use but it does take a while. (I'd also advise leaving it to dry for a day at the very least.)

So here's the hull with the finished OPR technique:






















Since completing the hull I've been working on the turret and the missile gills- I'll get an update sorted for that soon.

Thankd for reading.

-KARL187-

Hey Karl,

Love the oil work you have done! Gives it a very nice look with color tone variations and wear and tear. Very well done man!

Gary

wow Karl,
you put a lot of effort into your weathering with oils. It looks really great!
Thanks for your sbs-pictures.

cheers Walter

What a great job Karl!
Very nice of what you have done! I am praticing on using oil on wheathering efects, may be I 'll learn some thing from thí

Huy Mai.

Gary- Thanks a lot mate, much appreciated.

Walter- It doesn't seem so much like effort when your enjoying it- this oil paint rendering definetly took longer than, say Oil Dot Fading, but it was thoroughly enjoyable to do and I'm very glad you like the effect it has produced.

Mai- Oils are always really surprising for modelling- they are so versatile and can be used for a lot of different things, its certainly good fun to try them out! Thanks for taking the time to check out the thread.

Working on the turret was interesting as I found it had a good deal more shadows and wear and tear in a much smaller area than the hull, so blending had to be a bit more controlled.

The two pictures below show the completed hull with the yet to be rendered turret- you can see the difference between the turret and the wide range of tones present on the hull:





Here's another picture of the hull prior to doing the oil paint rendering:



And now here's the turret after the oil paint rendering:





I had to go a bit differently around the ammunition boxes on the turret side- obviously since they are aluminium there was no need for rust tones and so these were left out- the oils on the exposed aluminium parts was also carefully wiped away to keep these parts more visible- the last layer of a muddy tone was added after that.



The missile shields were also done- for these I made the inner faces darker by using more of a dark olive green oil and some black- whereas these colors were scaled back on the front faces.





The finished result of oil paint rendering:













OPR is a technique I will definetly use again- it sure isn't a quick technique but I think it is worth it.

I have a diorama planned for this tank but, as you can see, the tracks and running gear remain un-touched by much of the weathering (except the dark wash)- this is because I have only just today been able to get the funds for some bits and pieces for the dio. Once I have these items on the bench I'll be able to better choose how to go about the final weathering stages- Nenad Kostic mentioned a nice autumnal scene earlier on in the thread and I've been thinking about it since then, trying to find a suitable base and some suitable accessories- those are now on the way. I'd like some figures too but don't have the funds yet, but doing the base should keep me occupied for a while!!

I'll have more updates when these diorama bits and pieces are on the bench.

Thanks for reading.

-KARL187-

A very thorough job mate. I like it a lot. Waiting to see the dio.

Hi Karl,

Fantastic job just stunning!!! Do you by chance have remember what issue of MM that the article on Oil Paint Rendering was on I would like to learn more

Cheers Mike

Karl,

I feel like a dittohead, but this is an amazing build log. The bubbling, rusting paint effects look three dimensional, outstanding work!

Nate