Hi all, I'm planning on a building a Leopard C2 from the Italari Leopard 1A5. My overall goal is to build a full-fledged Leopard C2 MEXAS as seen in Afghanistan. However, I want to take things one step at a time so my first major goal is to re-create that large bustle seen on the C2.I need to know, what visable vehicle modifications make a Leopard C2 different from a German Leopard 1A5? Here's the kit.

I'll be subscribing to this! Good luck

You may want to look at this , if you did not already.

I want to build a (since the Maple Leaf Models doesn't in the business anymore) "scratch build" C2 and a C2 Mexas too. Good luck, I'm following..

CC

Good luck Aaron, even with the MLM conversion this is not an easy game.
The Prime Portal walkaround is a must for a tank stationed in Canada. For one deployed to Afghanistan, I'm pretty sure that some of the Canadian servicemen will pop up and come to your help as they did for me.

Olivier

Another Leopard C2, also from Primeportal.

CC

What time frame will the Leo be? They went thru a few modifications while deployed to the 'stan. For instance will you be adding the thermal blanklets?



cheers

Aaron

I served on these beasts in Afghanistan, and will help you out with your build. I co authored the REALMODELS book C-2 MEXAS in Afghanistan. I have loads of photos to help you out. Just shoot me a pM.

Anthony

For starters, I want to thank everyone for their support. It certainly is dissapointing to know MLM is won't be coming back, but I won't let that stop me.


Bison I have to agree on the Primeportal as a impoantant refrence. I already found out that the C2 has the straight simplified engine grilles as opposed to the raised waffle-pattern style seen on German tanks. I've also seen your build of the C2, and it's fantastic.

Cagkan Thanks for the refrence site! I didn't know that Canada was already using their C2s as OPFOR. I actually plan on keeping 'paper-negatives' so as to save the C2 for future use or future builds of another C2.

Sauceman I want to build an early deployed C2, potentially with the 'Chiller Unit' but without the tan thermal blankets. That may be for a future build.

Anthony It's a honour to be able to speak to a former C2 MEXAS crewmember. I need photographs of the C2's running gear, i.e. struts, torsion bars, bump stops, and return rollers. I'll upload some WIP pics of the hull.

Here are some WIP photos of the hull just started today. Does the suspension look correct so far?

I shall subscribe to this thread!

Here are my build threads if you haven't searched them already;

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/136370#1137554


https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/157259#1319381

Here is another build log;

http://www.network54.com/Forum/169232/thread/1193629991/Leopard+C2%27A1+blog




I would also suggest getting the C2 photoetch from Real Models, highly recommended.




cheers

sauceman I tried looking on spruebrothers and lucky models, but no luck. Pardon the pun. May I ask what colours did you use for the main paint? Did you use any primers?

another resin company is supposed to be doing a C2 and C2 MEXAS, but I look forward to seeing a scratched conversion.

Hi Aaron,

Good to see your interest in Canadian Leopards.

To actually answer your questions about your build and what you have to change to make it a Leopard C2 MEXAS....

- Turret bustle /jerry can racks added
- Driver's periscope wiper bracket and cable added
- MEXAS packages on hull and turret added
- Tow cable mount locations changed to post MEXAS locations
- Loader's C6 machine gun mount added
- Antenna mounts changed to Canadian versions
- Bore brush bin locations changed
- GPS antenna added
- Gunner's sight shroud added
- Hydraulic bump stops

Your suspension overall is fine for what you will see when the build is complete...however, to be more accurate you could have changed the bump stops to the later hydraulic bump stop versions used on the C2.

See Jim's image in the link and your will see the difference in the stock bump stop compared to the later hydraulic version. Some Leopard C2s can be seen with both versions mounted on the same suspension.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/169232/thread/1340118139/Leopard+1+tank+hydraulic+bumper+stop+help+needed

As well the idler wheel can either be the original version or a smaller version used on the C2 that has the same diameter as the Leopard 2 idler wheel.

The drive sprocket may or may not have the centre guide...your choice whether to keep it on or sand it off.

If you can get a copy of Michael Shackleton's Volume 3 of the Leopard Trilogy you will find some great four view 1/35 line drawings of the Leopard C2.

There were only one or two C2s painted in the tan OPFOR colours for trials not the whole fleet.

I actually ended up with 2 of the Real Model PE sets and only needed one if you want to trade something for it

LeoCommander While a new book on the Leopard would be nice, I have different idea. Do you have the Cromwell Models C2 MEAXS? I wanted to know because I need bustle measurements from it.I'll upload a picture of a rough sketch that shows the measuremnts I need in red. If you do have the measurements, you don't have to convert them from 1:72, but if you do, can you give me a heads up? The width is the total distance. I realise I'm asking for a fairly large favour, but those measurements would make the bustle, and possible future MEXAS modules that much more accurate.

Interesting idea. Yes, I do have the small scale Cromwell Leo C2 MEXAS kit. Dependant on the accuracy of the Cromwell kit dimensions upscaling those measurements might work...but there may be easier ways...

Better idea...ask for measurements of the Maple Leaf Models 1/35 Leo C2 turret bustle.

Or another idea...ask for the actual measurements of the turret bustle from a real Leo C2. I am sure someone in Edmonton can help you out.

Or even another idea...ask for the 1/35 measurements from the line drawing in the book I mentioned previously.

Should be an interesting one, good luck!

@LeoCommander I've already sent several requests for the C2 bustle measurements, but I wouldn't go without asking if anyone has The Leopard Trilogy and they have the line drawing if they would please share the specified bustle measurements. I'm also afraid I don't know of anyone who lives in Edmonton.

On a side note, I may scratch build some of the hydrualic shock aborbers.

Here are some more WIP photos with the turret fitted.

Aaron

I will have what you require later for you. I live in the land of the Leopards up here in Edmonton.......LOL

I will send you photos of the suspension, and let me know what timeframe that you are wanting to show the C-2, as there are certain times when the layout changed.

Anthony

Ask and you shall receive.




















cheers

See...that was easy. I have never seen any of your previous requests.

You might want to try this forum dedicated to modern Canadian armour for faster direct answers to the info you seek...

http://www.network54.com/Forum/169232/

Don't rush your build as you might find you will have to make modifications and that they might be easier before you assemble parts.

You will have to cut both front fenders totally off to mount the MEXAS on the hull.

Take a look at a couple of C2 builds from the forum to get an idea of what you should be striving for...

http://www.network54.com/Forum/169232/thread/1244035620/Leopard+C2+MEXAS+build

http://www.network54.com/Forum/169232/thread/1205624115/Leopard+C2+MEXAS+finished

http://www.network54.com/Forum/169232/thread/1193629991/Leopard+C2%27A1%27+blog

LeoCmdr There's method to my madness. I was actually anticipating chopping off the fenders beforehand for the fitting of the MEXAS modules, so I left the upper and lower hull portions unglued.

Sauceman Thank you so much for the measurements! I'll build a 'rough' version out of paper so I can get a good outlook as to the placement of all the details like the grab handles and hinges and even the location of the anti-skid. I actually heard of a different technique for applying anti-skid that involves airbrushing on a layer of clear and quickly dusting on fine grit sand.

As for more WIP pictures, the next photos I'll upload will include the first of many scratchbuilt features that will turn this Leo 1A5 into a C2.

The main paint was Tamiya acrylic NATO green straight from the bottle. I generally use a red oxide automotive primer when there is a lot of photoetch on the model.



cheers

Aaron
here are some measurements taken on my model bustle.



Hope this is clear enough and will be a useful supplement to Richard's pictures.
Olivier