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First Try at Sculpting Urethane Foam

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After I was done working with the various knives and cutting tools I had been using, I switched to sandpaper for more control. I used primarily a 50 grade, pretty heavy-duty paper to smooth out the rough cuts I had made and create some contours in the lower, flatter area of the base. Again, just as I had overestimated the difficulty of cutting the foam to a basic shape and went at it rather crudely at first, I again overestimated how much material the coarse sandpaper would remove. I accomplished what I had hoped to in no time and quickly realized this first grade of paper was way too much and switched to a finer grade. This piece was more pliable and allowed me much more control and also allowed me to make my sand dune “wave” with a nice undercut effect. (When I was finished with the project, I wish I had overdone this undercut a bit more than I did because it lost some of the impression of depth. I think it was the light color of the finished base that took away from the effect but in any case, I should have gone just bit deeper under the crest of my wave.)

The sanding is where the foam dust especially started flying and I will again remind you to use the dust mask. Even outdoors in a nice breeze there was no way to avoid breathing in the dust without mechanical help.

About the Author

About Rob Norton (RobNorton)
FROM: NEW HAMPSHIRE, UNITED STATES


Comments

Nice little SBS. Thanks Rob.
OCT 26, 2007 - 12:48 AM
The same material can be found at Lowes and Home Depot for about $12-15 for a huge sheet. Also comes in various thicknesses, usually in pink or blue color. I was able to reduce some of the dust by using a hot wire for the initial cutting. Sanding is still a messy affair though. Good SBS. "Q"
OCT 26, 2007 - 01:10 AM
Sorry "Q", it's not the same pink or blue material you describe. I would also caution against cutting any kind of foam with a hot wire as the melting releases gases that can cause harm. Mike
OCT 26, 2007 - 07:40 AM
Ok, different material. My mistake. "Q"
OCT 26, 2007 - 10:38 AM
i find a far better material to work with for terrain is BALSA FOAM... sold in sheets of various sizes, the stuff is amazing. It "carves" like chalk, in that it is soft and easily scraped and sanded. Once the desired shape is obtained, you simply seal and paint it, or if you want to create molds of the finished peice (as I often do) dip it in MinWax Wood Hardener... this will make it hard as a rock in about one hour, and you can cast it in RTV rubber. The only drawback to balsa foam is that is makes super fine dust, so you MUST wear a breathing mask... also, be sure to clean off your steel tools, as the stuff will rust steel pretty quickly if it comes in contact with water. Here is a link with more information about the stuff... and of course, we stock it in our store, if you'd like to give it a try! http://www.americanfoamtech.com/balsafoam/craftideas.asp
FEB 17, 2008 - 08:39 PM
Hi Keith, While I can appreciate that this thread is a convenient way for you to advertise your shop, I wouldn't necessarily say that Balsa Foam is a better product for making diorama bases. I would call it a similar yet different product. What Rob used the foam for in this article, wouldn't have benefitted from using the denser Balsa Foam. I also think people need to look at the relative cost of the products and the size of the blocks available. Balsa Foam is more expensive. My company offers a foam that I believe has merits and Rob has demonstrated what can be done on a first try. I'm wondering why the only comments are regarding what some ill informed people think are better alternatives. I would assume the Armorama staff would welcome articles on the experiences people have with 4' x 8' sheeets of building insulation or various sized blocks of Balsa Foam. When I read them, I'll be sure to comment on the work presented and not the material used. Respectfully, Michael Bishop
FEB 27, 2008 - 07:56 PM
For Dio bases I would never use Balsa foam, for 1. too expensive. 2. it is better used for making buildings, furnishings etc. 3. regular styrofoam is cheaper and more durable, you can find local dealers and can use scraps for complete scenes. I for one love balsa foam, and will more likely never buy another plastic building again. I can make them look like stone, wood siding, and brick. You can also use them for building you sidewalks and streets. or if you are really good making ornate sculptures and vases. Just my opinion
JAN 27, 2009 - 04:59 PM