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Figure painting with Acrylics

Painting: Skin colour
First of all, before you start painting, you need to mount your figure to something so you don't get any grease or fingerprints on the figure during painting. I usually mount my figure to an old Tamiya acrylic paint jar lid, with a small amount of CA. When this is dry, wash the figure gently, I use only water but you may choose otherwise. Wrap the figure in kitchen roll and leave for 30 minutes to dry.

Take your primer Rattlecan, I choose white as it is easier to shade, and spray the figure, misting coats on and rotating the figure to get even coverage. HINT; don't try spraying and rotating at the same time, and don't forget to put the soldiers gear on like I did!

When this is dry I start on the flesh, using Orange Brown , Beige Brown, Dark Flesh and White. I mix a colour I am happy with, and use this as my base colour, it is usually darker than I am aiming for as it fills in the shadows and low areas. Apply this in a thin layer over the hands and face (don't forget the back of the neck).

When this coat is dry I usually paint the eyes, but by the looks of it my figure has his eyes closed, but I will talk you through eyes anyway. The main thing to remember is that eyes are not White, the best thing to do is to tint the White with a Brown colour to get an off-white colour. When painting the Whites, make sure the paint is thinned enough for it to run into the eye recesses. If any spills, remove this with a wet brush and repaint when dry.

For the irises take a colour of your choice (that's suitable for an eye) and dot it in the eye, don't place them directly in the centre, you can create different expressions with the positioning of the iris, so experiment and use what you find best. It's best not to paint the pupil, because who at this scale is going to be looking for pupils, I mean you have eyes sorted, at 1/35 that,s pretty good! The next stage is to paint a more solid colour of flesh onto the face and hands, I have lightened my previous colour for this, and thickened the paint a tiny bit, bear in mind the paint still needs to be thin.

Whist you are waiting for this to dry you can make a start on the boots, mix a tiny bit of brown in with some black and thin the paint, then paint it carefully onto the boots, if you have thinned it correctly, the black will be thinner on the high details of the boots and darker in the creases.

After this, I applied a darkened skin tone wash on the ears, and facial creases, and used a lighter version of the skin tone to highlight the nose and brow, I also painted the lip with a mix of Red and Orange Brown.

I have decided to use a dark colour for the hair colour on this figure, Beige Brown mixed with flat Brown, apply this mix thinly, so that the white base coat can bee seen on the tips of the hair. Once you are happy with your skin tones, we will move onto the uniform.

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About the Author

About James Cann (lespauljames)
FROM: ENGLAND - SOUTH WEST, UNITED KINGDOM

I was born in 1989, and have been reading about things military since the age of 10. I picked up my first kit on a caravan holiday ( Airfix harrier ) and have been on and off since, I disappear from time to time when other parts of life catch up with me, and I'm looking forward to sharing my work, a...


Comments

this is the first figure i paintied using this technique, and i think its pretty cool, (my pervious fig aRT was shocking)
SEP 29, 2008 - 10:07 PM
I think your figure looks pretty cool, maybe you need to do improve a bit the rendering of lights/shadows, your figure is highly detailed, but in plastic kits with less detail, you notice a lack of realism that can be improved with a superb painting. I suffer specially with the faces, where i have to do an huge effort if don't want it to look like dummies(i'll read again your explanation on faces, i have much to learn!) I also use to paint with vallejo(nș1, no doubt), but my tecnique is a bit different from yours. I start with a coat of the base tone (without any primer) and then move on the highlights: with acrylics you cant paint in layers with the paint heavy thinned. Painting sucessive coats you'll get a smooth gradation. If some of the lights look too much hard-edged or too white, i add a very smoth wash with the base color over the area. Finally, i add the shadows in the same way, with thin layers of the darkened color in the clothes. Some details as the buttons or pocket flaps coul be made in the same way than in a rivet in a tank: with a small drop of thinned paint to outline the detail. Other details may be outlined with a sharper edge. Have you got some photos of non-resin work?(i mean, tamiya, dragon...)
SEP 30, 2008 - 12:23 AM
to be honest i only work in resin.
SEP 30, 2008 - 01:13 AM
I like the effect the wash technique has on certain items. It's not what I would normally do, but in certain colours it really stands out (I really like the ammo pouches, for example, looks great in that leather tone). Mixing this technique with preshading and drybrushing for darker colours would yield some great results - and your technique is quick and simple, which is a great bonus.
SEP 30, 2008 - 09:21 AM
All looks good from this end
OCT 01, 2008 - 11:40 PM
I think this is a very good tutorial, and I look forward to trying it out soon as I have a small (no pun intended ... oh, what the heck, let it stand) army of figures that would greatly benefit from better technique. Thanks for sharing
OCT 02, 2008 - 06:42 AM
terrible joke !!! hehe just kidding, thanks to all who like the feature, and thanks to Henk and the team! for getting it up and running:D it may not be the most detailed, and tricky technique, but for people like me(people who struggle to paint figs,:P:D) this hopefully will help!
OCT 02, 2008 - 07:50 AM
Excellent feature and interesting techique. I've been looking for something similar, so thanks alot for posting this. Will see if I dare post anything when I got something finished.
NOV 11, 2008 - 05:57 AM
m0rfar , thankyou for your comment im glad you enjoyed the feature, i haave tried to put across a simple effective technique that practically everyone can use
NOV 11, 2008 - 06:16 AM
Hey, Kid - has anyone ever told you that you are a genius? Well I am, and my son is 9 years older than you. I'm just getting back into 1:35th Military Modeling after having been away from it for thirty (that's right - 30) YEARS, and I have been looking for a simple way to paint figures that didn't require 50 gazillion coats of flesh, 25 gazillion hours of dry time and a Partridge in a Pear tree to get decent results. Congrats - you have enlightened me. Pray teach me more - I am your devoted disciple. And I like rock music, too, though my tastes are probably a little old school for you, leaning towards 70s and 80s (I'm listening to Sting as I write this). Anyway, thanks alot, pal. Your simple techniques of painting will help me to get back in the saddle again. There is hope for my Diorama of elements of 'Das Reich' and the 101st Airborne after all...Take care, E Strongblade Rats - did not realize that this article is 2 years old 'til after I answered it. That's OK - the compliment still stands and I hope that you still have the time to model. Too many of us allow RL to prevent it in those critical 20s, 30s and 40s growth periods.
NOV 24, 2010 - 08:05 AM