OK, I know I'm crazy having just gotten back into this hobby after a 3-decade lay-off (and no, I wasn't in prison!), but I got inspired by a color photo of a Sd.Kfz. 7 towing a sFH 18 over a 2-section portable bridge. I've begun with the Dragon kit for the howitzer, and am posting below some initial photos.

But before getting to the pics, I have some observations on the kit:

1.) the detailing is really nice: Not as thorough as with a PE upgrade, but first of all, there isn't one I know of. Certainly much better than with the Tamiya kits I've purchased (though in fairness, I've been re-purchasing older kits I once owned, and not their latest ones). For example, the shovel is raised off as though inserted into a holder for the blade istead of simply pasted flat to the metal.

2.) the directions are fair to good: The illustrations are detailed and easy-to-read, but there is no explanation of the parts, and occasional mis-labeling of them. Sometimes the illustrations for part-placement are ambiguous. As you can see, I still haven't attached the smaller breach level because I'm unsure where to place it.

3.) the plastic is soft: Again, in comparison to Tamiya or the Accurate Miniatures aircraft I've been building, the Dragon styrene is delicate, so I've had to go easy on the files and sanding boards.

4.) the features are well-executed: If you look at the wheel assembly (sorry for the poor photos, I'm working on my close-up, Mr. DeMille), you'll see there is a lot going on in a small space.

And thank the Lord for metal barrels, I'll never go back to plastic again.

Right now, I'm trying to figure out what kinds of latches and other leftover brass I can use to attach the shovel, pick and other tools, which seem to float magically alongside.

Bill,

This is lookin' good......very much looking forward to more. Someday, some company, will reproduce a VERY much needed new Sd.Kfz 7....someday!

Mike

Thank you, Mike. I very much hope that others will critique this offering and point out any inaccuracies. I did some research online today, and can see no traces of latches holding on the "loose" items like tools onto the trails. Apparently the fold-up seat kept them from slipping off.

Looking good Bill. One thing to consider is that when the sFH18 was in travelling mode, the barrel was taken "out of battery", that is moved back on the slide in order to shorten the weapon's overall length. It was disconnected from the recuperator (the cylinder avove the barrel) and just slid back and locked.

In this video, from second 22 to 36, you see a K18 10cm Kanone (very similar to the sFH18) being brought BACK into battery. When being put into travel mode, this would be reversed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pL8AOlSqeCQ

HTH

Thanks for sharing that, I'll have to study the video and see if I can adapt it to the kit.

Looking good so far -- I'll watch this blog with interest as I'm planning a Sd.Kfz.7 / 88mm FlaK 88 in the near future. Just collecting parts and info at the moment.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Cheers,
Ian

Thanks, Ian. I hope to aquire a second Sd.Kfz.7 for a coupling with an 88 for Winter Russia 194X, but figure the diorama part (snow, tracks, mud, etc.) were complex.

Also, the sFH 18 can be built pretty much out-of-the-box (at least, there's no upgrade I know of yet), while the Dragon FLAK 36 I have requires a Voyager upgrade that's currently out-of-stock everywhere.

Bill

OK, the gun's built. I wish I'd read this first, http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6392.html. It identifies some of the problems with the kit. But here is the result limbered up and ready to roll:









Next, the Sd.Kfz 7 tow.

OK, the gun's mostly finished, now it's time for the Sd.Kfz. 7. This kit was issued over 30 years ago from all I can find out, and has multiple inaccuracies, including the suspension, front end, drive train, and some bulky casting on the plastic.

The solution for me was upgrades, more upgrades than a business flyer on steroids. They include the Eduard PE details, equipment box and wheel masks, as well as Modelkasten wheels and tracks, plus a Signifier front end. I have Friulmodel metal tracks on order, and a Maffei engine from R&J. There are some misc. other upgrades, including "driver knows" width guides, but I may choose to scratch-build them.

Below are the various trees from the kit and some of the upgrades (I'll photograph them as appropriate):

This is the Tamiya body straight out of the box with close-ups of the clunky fender and undercarriage:


Here is the Tamiya wheel tree & close-ups of the wheel detailing




Below are the Modelkasten wheels:

Below are the additional Tamiya sprue trees, including those for the crew. My plan is to replace the existing crew with that from Tamiya's FAMO if possible, as they will conform better with the diorama I have planned.

Hello Bill,

I'm working on the Tamiya SdKfz 7 1/2 track as well, I bought the Friulmodel tracks -
they don't fit - you have to cut about 3mm total off of each tire set ( in postion on torsion arm )
rather the pain in the behind - just thought I'd give you the heads up if you were not aware-

bryan

Brian, are you using the Tamiya wheels? They are not the correct size, and the drive wheel is too large in diameter. That might help explain why the fit is poor. I have the Friul's on order and the Modelkasten ones came with the wheel set.

Below are the next photos in the series:

This is the Signifier front end upgrade with resin-cast tires and poly axle, springs, idler arms, etc..

This is the chassis with the Modelkasten idler wheel installed from the top & bottom:



Eduard has two upgrade sets for the Sd.Kfz. 7, one general one and one for the interior of the rear tool case.

Hi Bill,

yes- I was going to use the Tamiya wheels, however I plan to get a set from modelkasten
since I don't want to deal with all the cutting and measuring to make the Tamiya ones fit.
I will be using the Friul drive sprocket as well as the tracks.

thanks,

Bryan

Bryan, would you be so good as to post a photo of the sprocket?

The Modelkasten wheels come with a pretty decent sprocket, but it has some inaccuracies. For example, there is a rough-edged cylinder attached to the center of the drive sprocket (see here: http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7_63.jpg, and the Eduard PE upgrade 35105 has it for "fixing" the Tamiya wheels.

I don't know if I want the hassle of trying to remove the white metal from the Modelkasten sprockets in order to add that cylinder (perhaps one of you "soft skin" experts can tell me the name for it and its purpose).

And I should point out that upgrades aren't always accurate, either. The Eduard kit has square rifle stock supports. The real ones are shaped like the rifle stocks themselves in elipses (see here: http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7_30.jpg " TARGET="_blank"> http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7_30.jpg . I guess I could scratch build them, but I'd rather go blind with more pleasurable pasttimes.

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the www.toadmanstankpictures.com links -- will be very useful for my build and have already given me a couple of new ideas!

Cheers,
Ian

You're welcome, Ian!

Below are some new photos showing the Signifier front end upgrade and the Modelkasten road wheels:



You can see below how the Tamiya rubber tires are generic friction car jobbies, while the resin-cast ones from Signifier have specific tread designs:

And finally, here are the Modelkasten road wheels (minus the sprocket wheel, which I haven't decided whether to use or replace with the Friulmodel version).

Bill - I would love nothing more than to post a ton of pictures of the drive sprocket from Friul-
however my crappy lab-top is older than time and will not accept a connection to my digitial camera- I plan to get a whole new computer ( state of the art....bells & whistles ) however this does nothing for your situation now, sorry my friend - I can only suggest punching up
google and doing an image search on the tracks, or SdKfz 7

all the best,

Bryan

LAP-TOP.....DUH

any way, I forgot to add that the Friul drive is very well detailed, is smaller than the Tamiya
one and should come with the tracks - mine did. So once you get the tracks you can make a better decision

cheers

looks Well.Want to see finished.

Hi There, I'm also bizzy with the Sdkfz 7/1 & so dealing with his problems.
I tried both the Friuls as well as the Modelkasten tracks and the latter are far out the best.
As mentioned before, the Friul tracks did not fit on the sprocket wheels so I had tot adjust them.
Check:

and the final result:


But one week after this job was done I got the Modelkasten tracks + wheels.
WOW This Modelkasten set is SUPERB!!!
So the modified sprocket wheels as well as the friul tracks wre sent to the spare box.

As said before, this old Tamiya kit needs al lot of scratch building, aftermarket sets and reference material.
I will post my progress here soon so we can learn of eachothers projects & work arounds.


Anyway, I will follow this thread very close.

Good luck bill!

Bye,

Pipo.

Thanks, Pipo. I'm relatively certain now to removed the center of the MK sprocket wheel and put on the Eduard PE ring thanks to your nice work.

I was also considering doing that but the only (major) difference between the Eduard pe ring and the MK ring are the litlle dots on the outside.
I'll will put mud to the wheels so I decide to leave the pe ring were it's now: in the spare box.


Probably you could consider to do also this:



K bye,

Pipo.

Nice scratch-building, I'm overwhelmed! I assumed that's plastic sheeting you're using to build up the I-beams?

Yep, it's Evregreen plastic crad & nuts from Royal model.


K, enough pics from me for now, I do not want to spoil your thread.

Bye,
Marcel.

Not at all! The Tamiya kit is so deeply-flawed, it's invaluable for me to hear about and see other choices. I have a second diorama planned (with a FLAK 36 88mm on the Eastern Front), so lessons learned with this build can be applied there.

Consider this a sort of "group build."

I think these threads are a useful way to share information for all who are working on this fascinating, but troubled kit. I will look to get some Plastrut sheeting and replicate some of what you're doing with the under-carriage, as it will be visible in the diorama (a raised roadbed like a train layout is the basis for the scene).

Bill