Hello all,

I am about to kick off a multi media build: resin, lead sheeting, PE plastic, all the good stuff. However I am consistently disappointed with my ability to get clean and precise results out of Cyanoacrylate glues. Are there any alternatives?

I recently read an article about some folks useing 2 part epoxy. They stated it allows a little bit of wiggle time to get placement right and it's stick consistency can be used to replicate weld beads around attachments to AFV hulls.

Can anyone suggest a decent product or suggest another approach?

W

You can also try Gator Glue, an acrylic (water-soluble) glue developed for PE parts. You can order it from http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html . I have used it for attaching PE parts to a couple of models and it has worked well so far. I like the ability to tweak the placement of parts that it provides. It's not quite as strong as CA, but it's far stronger than white glue.

Epoxy will work, but remember that once it sets, it's not coming off (at least not with a lot of effort and damage).

Gator Glue us what you need just as Lucas says, it also has the added bonus that excess can be cleaned up with a brush and some water.

5 minute epoxy will work fine.
You can also find it in varying time limits before setting.
I normally keep 5 minute and 15 minute epoxy on the work bench.

I have to put in another vote for Gator Glue. I used it exclusively on all the non-styrene parts on my latest build. I have to say that this glue is outstanding and it can replace your CA entirely. Plus it is much more controllable than CA and it grabs immediately but gives you time to position the part before it sets. If you don't have a bottle of this stuff on your bench, you are missing a fantastic new tool!

Ditto on the Gator Glue. And Harbor Freight Tools has apparently ordered far too much. They were practically giving it away last week.

Thanks guys,

Just ordered some.

W

Another vote for Gator Glue. It sets up fairly fast, but allows plenty of time to tweak or reposition a part. The water clean-up makes it really easy to make clean joins. I find myself using it more and more.

-Doug

Gator Glue... sounds interesting.

I found the worst part about CA was the containers they came in. Now the I found Lock-Tite brand, I thought I had found a friend.

Lock-Tite's Precision Max superglue comes in a bottle with a tip that I've yet to clog, even after a year and a half of use. The twist on/off locking cap is pretty neat and the wide base on the bottle makes it hard(er) to tip over. If you still use CA, the Lock-Tite brand is not a bad way to go.

-YL

Built most of the ASLAV PC conversion with Gator Glue, love it and no smell.
Bill

Another vote for Gator Glue! "GREAT STUFF" However, don't rid your bench top of your favorite brand of Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue, CA) so fast! Here's a tip for anyone using CA's to get the maxium holding power even from the tiniest drop. Here's my method:

1) Place a small drop of glue onto a small piece of wax paper (sold in grocery stores). This will keep the glue from setting up to quickly as the wax is water free. Water is one of the basic ingredients that reacts with the CA and causes it to set up quickly (mosture, finger prints on your model).

2) Add a little amount of telcom powder to the drop of glue and mix together. (too much telcom powder will cause the glue to lose it's strength and working time).

3) Now use as you normally would for applying those items you want attached together. For very small spots or even on some large areas too I apply the mixture to only one surface of the part or area where I want to place it using trimmed down wooden sticks from cotton swabs or stretched sprue. Apply accelerator using Microbrush applicator or your favorite small tool to quickly set up the CA after final adjustments to positioning of part(s).

Cyanoacrylate glues are known for there superior tensile strength (stretched or extended) but extremely weak on shear strength (shearing strain). Adding the telcom powder will give this glue both tensile and shear strength making items not so easy to remove once cured.

-Eddy