Dioramas
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Tiger 1 Mid Diorama Russia Summer 1944
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Friday, May 29, 2009 - 10:55 PM UTC
just paint some thin PVA glue over the parts you want rusted and dip it in plaster or a similar powder. then paint a dark brown with acrylics and leave to dry. after this you just need to dry brush with some burnt sienna. i also used a tiny bit of mig standard rust to stop the dry brushing looking glossy. you don't have to use acrylics but i found that it saves you from waiting ages for it to dry.
Tordenskiold
Joined: February 12, 2005
KitMaker: 426 posts
Armorama: 293 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 30, 2009 - 12:12 AM UTC
Nice work. I have two comments
1. In real life, nobody would walk in front of a moving tank - especially not as close as the guy in front of the left fender
2. In the time periode of a mid tiger with zimmerit, I would expect the grenadiers to wear carmoflage smoges instead of the early war grey uniforms
1. In real life, nobody would walk in front of a moving tank - especially not as close as the guy in front of the left fender
2. In the time periode of a mid tiger with zimmerit, I would expect the grenadiers to wear carmoflage smoges instead of the early war grey uniforms
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 30, 2009 - 12:35 AM UTC
thanks for the advice. i think it's too late to change the uniforms but i might think about moving the figures a bit. i had doubts myself but there was a lot of empty space when the figures were put to one side.
razorboy
Joined: October 14, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 307 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 30, 2009 - 01:27 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice work. I have two comments
1. In real life, nobody would walk in front of a moving tank - especially not as close as the guy in front of the left fender
2. In the time periode of a mid tiger with zimmerit, I would expect the grenadiers to wear carmoflage smoges instead of the early war grey uniforms
Perhaps the Tiger is stationary? I haven't seen Luke make reference as to wether it's moving or not. If it is, you are correct, not a good Idea to walk anywhere near the "moving" track. If it's not moving, then started to move, I think he could out run it. As far as the uniforms go .......
Grossdeutschland Div. Russia personnel 1944
2nd Panzer Div. personnel (or possibly Panzer Lehr) in Normandy 1944
French SS - Russia, Summer 1944
And I agree Luke, Nice Work
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 30, 2009 - 07:27 AM UTC
thanks for the photos. i guess the tiger could be stationary, it's all down to interpretation really. i hadn't thought that carefully about it.
anyway this is more of a display base than a proper dio so i'm not looking for perfect accuracy.
anyway this is more of a display base than a proper dio so i'm not looking for perfect accuracy.
razorboy
Joined: October 14, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 307 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 01:12 AM UTC
I think it looks great - moving or not. Well done Sir! Well done indeed!
razoroby
razoroby
RSingleton
Joined: August 26, 2008
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 273 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 02:11 AM UTC
Looks good. I like it.
Rich
Rich
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 07:04 AM UTC
Sorry for the massive break, but my resin has finally arrived (i only ordered it on sunday ). 
I've mixed and poured the first layer, with a little tamiya flat earth acrylic added to give colour. This will be the most opaque layer, with other layers on top getting clearer and clearer. Hopefully i can get the second layer done tonight, since the instructions say it takes 50 mins to set.
this is the reference photo i am working to for the colour and transparency.
I've mixed and poured the first layer, with a little tamiya flat earth acrylic added to give colour. This will be the most opaque layer, with other layers on top getting clearer and clearer. Hopefully i can get the second layer done tonight, since the instructions say it takes 50 mins to set.
this is the reference photo i am working to for the colour and transparency.
trackpads
Joined: December 17, 2008
KitMaker: 330 posts
Armorama: 284 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 09:36 AM UTC
Love it looks great wish my round work looked as good.looking forward to seeing it all done.
http://trackpads.co.uk
http://trackpads.co.uk
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 10:13 AM UTC
Great work Luke! That muddy water is a perfect mix.
Bluestab
Joined: December 03, 2009
KitMaker: 2,160 posts
Armorama: 1,906 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 05:13 AM UTC
Nice work. I especially like the overall look of the water in the ditch. The placement is perfect and really frames that side of the dio base.
As far as the tank moving and figures, just move the MG crew over a bit as if they are giving the Tiger a wide berth. Another suggestion is to make one or more of the MG crew glancing over at the tank in nervousness or awe. Maybe he's a new recruit. Maybe have one or more of the other crew laughing at his discomfort. You could also add one or two camo tunic wearing figures mulling around the water...drawing attention to it in the process. Maybe a motorcycle team doing recon or taking a smoke break.
As far as the tank moving and figures, just move the MG crew over a bit as if they are giving the Tiger a wide berth. Another suggestion is to make one or more of the MG crew glancing over at the tank in nervousness or awe. Maybe he's a new recruit. Maybe have one or more of the other crew laughing at his discomfort. You could also add one or two camo tunic wearing figures mulling around the water...drawing attention to it in the process. Maybe a motorcycle team doing recon or taking a smoke break.
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 05:38 AM UTC
Unfortunately the first layer was a bit of a disaster. Although nothing is damaged, after 24 hours it looks like this
I have no idea where it all went, maybe it soaked into the base or something? I didn't think resin was supposed to shrink that much! It also took far longer to set than expected, even now it can still be indented with a fingernail. I can only a assume that a lack of catalyst and the bitterly cold weather has caused it to take so long.
I have now mixed another, thicker coat with more catalyst and hopefully this will set a bit faster. It already seems to be entering the gel stage which is a good sign.
Sorry for the bad pics, but you get the idea.
I have no idea where it all went, maybe it soaked into the base or something? I didn't think resin was supposed to shrink that much! It also took far longer to set than expected, even now it can still be indented with a fingernail. I can only a assume that a lack of catalyst and the bitterly cold weather has caused it to take so long.
I have now mixed another, thicker coat with more catalyst and hopefully this will set a bit faster. It already seems to be entering the gel stage which is a good sign.
Sorry for the bad pics, but you get the idea.
redcap
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 753 posts
Armorama: 378 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 06:54 AM UTC
The water in the ditch brings the whole diorama 'alive'.
Great stuff, keep it up and this will be a cracker!
Gary
Great stuff, keep it up and this will be a cracker!
Gary
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 08:31 AM UTC
Thanks Gary and Jon. GAB, thanks for the advice. The problem with moving the figures to the right so that they are out of the path of the tank is that there is a huge great empty space in front of it when i do this, which ruins the balance of the scene. I like the idea of a motorcycle team, since these could travel safely in front of the tank knowing that they could easily outrun it. I'll have a look at figure sets, anyone have any suggestions?
thomokiwi
Joined: January 11, 2006
KitMaker: 438 posts
Armorama: 359 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 03:27 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks Gary and Jon. GAB, thanks for the advice. The problem with moving the figures to the right so that they are out of the path of the tank is that there is a huge great empty space in front of it when i do this, which ruins the balance of the scene. I like the idea of a motorcycle team, since these could travel safely in front of the tank knowing that they could easily outrun it. I'll have a look at figure sets, anyone have any suggestions?
I would think the masterbox set would work very well, bike-sidecar and three figures
Bluestab
Joined: December 03, 2009
KitMaker: 2,160 posts
Armorama: 1,906 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 06:24 PM UTC
Luke, I consider them to be "suggestions" because "advice" implies that I know what I am talking about. But in all seriousness, I was referring to moving the MG crew closer together like they are marching on the edge of the road. I should have been more clear on that, especially with space being an issue.
Anyway, the dio does look very nice. I'm interested to watch the work continue.
Anyway, the dio does look very nice. I'm interested to watch the work continue.
Gundam-Mecha
Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 10:01 PM UTC
I had a similar problem myself the first time I used crystal resin in a diorama. At first it looked great but overnight a lot had absorbed into the base.
You can try to seal the bottom first before putting resin which might help. I've seen lots of methods, coating the bottom of the stream with varnish, PVA, or using plastic lining. Some people also use a gauze plaster bandage to prevent this. I've seen on Woodland scenics website that they cover the bottom of the water feature with strips of gauze plaster, wet them and leave them to dry, then lay the water effects and resin over the top.
If you have the same problem again it might be worth giving something like that a try.
You can try to seal the bottom first before putting resin which might help. I've seen lots of methods, coating the bottom of the stream with varnish, PVA, or using plastic lining. Some people also use a gauze plaster bandage to prevent this. I've seen on Woodland scenics website that they cover the bottom of the water feature with strips of gauze plaster, wet them and leave them to dry, then lay the water effects and resin over the top.
If you have the same problem again it might be worth giving something like that a try.
bill1
Joined: August 14, 2005
KitMaker: 3,938 posts
Armorama: 520 posts
Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 01:41 AM UTC
Yo Luke,
Nice groundwork you show here...very realistic! Nice job. The dry ditch...after the resin is gone...is not bad. It has a nice look. But with the resin its also very nice
Don't forget to put some leaves in it.
Greetz Nico
Nice groundwork you show here...very realistic! Nice job. The dry ditch...after the resin is gone...is not bad. It has a nice look. But with the resin its also very nice
Don't forget to put some leaves in it.
Greetz Nico
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 06:12 AM UTC
Well the second coat was a great success. As you can see, it has retained most of it's volume. It also took far less time to set.
The only problems i had were with a few air bubbles which rose up from around the barrels and left behind small holes in the resin. Hopefully they will not be visible under the coming coats.
Next up was another coat of resin with slighltly less paint in it.
Here is my current setup. To counter the effect of the cold weather i have been adding extra catalyst and i have a heater positioned near the dio to keep it warm. With this i managed to get the setting time of the last coat down to just a few hours.
The only problems i had were with a few air bubbles which rose up from around the barrels and left behind small holes in the resin. Hopefully they will not be visible under the coming coats.
Next up was another coat of resin with slighltly less paint in it.
Here is my current setup. To counter the effect of the cold weather i have been adding extra catalyst and i have a heater positioned near the dio to keep it warm. With this i managed to get the setting time of the last coat down to just a few hours.
Brian_Moore
Vendor
Joined: October 09, 2009
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 07:15 AM UTC
Very nice.
Keep us abreast your progress!
Keep us abreast your progress!
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 09:33 AM UTC
jimz66- My groundwork is formed using foam to make the basic contours of the land. Then i use a mix of white glue, a dash of washing up liquid, and about 40/60 of filling plaster (pollyfilla) to a product called claycrete. This is like a more coarse version of celluclay, so the plaster acts to smooth it out into more of a paste. This dries quite quickly and doesn't seem to warp itself or the base. I just press sand and gravel into this and seal with PVA. The downside is that the plaster gets everywhere. I have just bought a 5Ib bag of celluclay which i haven't tried on a dio yet, but it seems to handle much better than claycrete and will probably not require the plaster. All i can say is experiment but don't put it on too thick.
randyd
Joined: July 04, 2009
KitMaker: 241 posts
Armorama: 199 posts
Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 04:26 PM UTC
Hi Luke, This is coming out Great!! I really like the ditch, you do not seem to have much of the typical resin "creeping " up the banks, how are you doing this?
Randy
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 10:20 PM UTC
Unfortunately it is in some places. After i pour the resin roughly where i want it i spread it around with a toothpick and carefully work it up to the edges. It still creeps up a bit, but not too much. When i pour the final coat i will make it very thin, and try to only spread it over existing resin. My hope is that it will level the suface a little.
slodder
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 12:22 AM UTC
The water looks fantastic.
The way you captured 1:1 is impressive.
The way you captured 1:1 is impressive.
Pyromaniac
Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 03:56 AM UTC
Thanks Scott
Had a slight mishap with the (4th?) coat. After pouring, i realised that i had forgotten to add the catalyst!Thankfully i managed to stir some in to the stuff i had poured already and it set in a few hours. I have just added the next coat. Probably just 2 more to go, with the final coat being thin and clear.
Had a slight mishap with the (4th?) coat. After pouring, i realised that i had forgotten to add the catalyst!
Thankfully i managed to stir some in to the stuff i had poured already and it set in a few hours. I have just added the next coat. Probably just 2 more to go, with the final coat being thin and clear.
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