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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Finishing and Weathering Sequence
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, May 06, 2019 - 05:06 PM UTC
Well, I just noticed that this post is ten years old and ten pages long! I'm glad it has helped so many people get the finishing process right. It's easy if you take it slow one step at a time.
flyers42
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Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 11:23 AM UTC
for the clear gloss and clear flat, do you use future floorwax for the gloss?and testors dullcote for the clear flat?

any opposition to that?just getting back into this
Armorsmith
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Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 12:01 PM UTC
It kind of depends. If you are using an oil wash when weathering then yes Future or any acrylic gloss can be used. If you are using acrylic washes then a solvent based gloss would be in order. Good luck
flyers42
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:00 AM UTC
how do you guys store or protect your models/diorams long term from dust etc.?
Armorsmith
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:19 AM UTC
Some use individual display cases either custom built or commercially available. Others have furniture like display cases with glass doors and shelves or something similar with solid doors and shelves or a combination thereof. Still others just let them sit out and dust them periodically(or not) with a soft brush or blow the dust off with the AB. Good luck.
GulfWarrior
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:24 AM UTC
Depends...if they are going to be used for contests then I keep them in a Rubbermaid tub for easy transport and for protection. Once they've been retired I just leave them on the shelf for display and hit them with a shot of canned air now and then.

Incidentally, that's one of the biggest gigs that I knocked entries for while I was judging at my club's contest last month. There were models on the tables that had layers of dust on them...that was NOT part of the weathering.






GulfWarrior
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

for the clear gloss and clear flat, do you use future floorwax for the gloss?and testors dullcote for the clear flat?

any opposition to that?just getting back into this



For this part you're going to get as many answers as there are products on the market. For my gloss coat I use Future. For my flat coat I use Lucky Varnish Ultra Flat from Ammo by Mig.





flyers42
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 03:54 AM UTC
do you thin the future through the spray gun?
GulfWarrior
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 04:05 AM UTC
Nope...I shoot it straight!



paullm47
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Posted: Sunday, January 12, 2020 - 04:57 PM UTC
Old post, but useful information. Saw a youtube video today where the modeler primed the tank with black. Then sprayed white on the large panels, turret sides/top, hatches, etc. Then sprayed the base color trying to have the black primer show thru for shadows and i assume the same for the white trying to create highlights. Anyone else out there do this? I plan to paint a Dragon Artilleriewagen railcar very soon and i'm thinking about giving it a try. So after the base coat, gloss coat, decals and 2nd gloss coat are applied what are the preferred weathering steps? Thanks, and wish me luck.
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, January 13, 2020 - 09:54 AM UTC
Oil panel washes (filters)
Oil pin washes
Oil drybrushing
Oil staining (dot method)
Chipping and scuffing
Pigments
Mount to base so nobody touches the pigments
paullm47
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Posted: Monday, January 13, 2020 - 11:23 AM UTC
SSGToms, thanks for the reply. I found your weathering sequence on the very first post of this thread. My lazy ass should have looked there to begin with. My apologies, and thanks again.
SSGToms
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2020 - 08:59 AM UTC
Hey no problem! I forgot to list that you should start that list with a coat of clear flat to give everything something to stick to!
MrchntMarine
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Posted: Saturday, April 04, 2020 - 08:50 AM UTC
So I've been working on this M3 Stuart and am getting ready to finish it off. Its just primed and have done the treads and idler wheels and bogies. Im using Tamiya Acrylics. Id like to just keep it Olive drab XF-62. But id like to shade it a little to make the paint a little more interesting. Ill be air brushing. Ive done a minimal amount of shading and it always seems to not show much. I have some Flory water based washes I use and its ok - mostly look as thought they are just thrown on - my lack of experience im sure.... But, Id like to think im getting better. Question - there are tons of info out there on painting and as it pertains to the simple job id like to do here, I've read to work some spray into corners and panels going from a darker color, maybe black to lighter.. My topcoat I guess. Considering my simple paint scheme can anyone recommend a siteor link to where I can see a simple process of shading? Tks

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MX4KkULh6cZHX9iw5
iwatajim
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2020 - 09:42 AM UTC
I built a Tamiya Churchill a while ago and if you substitute the dark green with olive drab you could just follow my process, which is really quite simple. Tamiya yellow green is a great colour for lightening olive drab. Good luck with it!

My build log;

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/271890#2293732
MrchntMarine
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2020 - 10:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I built a Tamiya Churchill a while ago and if you substitute the dark green with olive drab you could just follow my process, which is really quite simple. Tamiya yellow green is a great colour for lightening olive drab. Good luck with it!

My build log;

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/271890#2293732

ok. tks much. ill check it out in more detail and give it a try. yours looks good - I can only hope I get close to what you've done.
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, April 06, 2020 - 03:09 AM UTC
Also good to know is that Olive Drab isn't actually a green - it's black and yellow ochre. So to go darker add XF-1 Flat Black. To go lighter add XF-60 Dark Yellow. Spray the darker in corners and in panel lines. Spray the lighter on edges and in the center of panels.
MrchntMarine
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Posted: Monday, April 06, 2020 - 06:42 AM UTC
All I have on hand is XF-3 flat yellow. Ok to use that? Can’t go out.
Armorsmith
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Posted: Monday, April 06, 2020 - 06:57 AM UTC
Yes the yellow will work but to make it a sand yellow you might try adding a hint of brown to take the edge off the brightness. If you choose to use the yellow alone go easy till you get the desired shade. You can always add more but you can't take it out once added. Good luck.
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, April 06, 2020 - 07:06 AM UTC
Yellow isn't the same color as yellow ochre, so you might want to test it with small amounts. When using Tamiya paints, Dark Yellow is really the color to use to compliment Olive Drab.
MrchntMarine
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2020 - 09:57 AM UTC
ok, tks. getting ready to start trying. I ventured out today and found some xf-60. ratios are all preference I guess, but can you give an approximate starting point?
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2020 - 10:52 PM UTC
Start with 2 parts OD to 1 part Flat Black. 2 parts OD to 1 part Dark Yellow. Spray those and they will give you perfect gauges on where you need to go from there. Always go incrementally, though. Know how many parts of the Flat Black or Dark Yellow you added to the Olive Drab to get the complimentary color. Don't be afraid to stretch your tonal range from black to yellow, either. Most of the good commercial modulation sets have 8 bottles in them.
MrchntMarine
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Posted: Sunday, May 10, 2020 - 04:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

To reference back to my first post in this thread -
1) Acrylic camo paint
2) Acrylic clear gloss
3) Decals or dry transfers
4) Acrylic clear gloss
5) Overall oil washes
6) Acrylic clear flat
7) Oil panel washes (filters)
8) Oil pin washes
9) Oil drybrushing
10) Oil staining (dot method)
11) Chipping and scuffing
12) Pigments
13) Mount to base so nobody touches the pigments

It goes paint, Future, decals, Future, overall oil washes, acrylic clear flat, oils. The overall washes are dark to collect in recessed lines and details. The pin washes are done with a pointed brush just around rivets and such so it collects around just that detail. Oils are used for the washes because oil paint will not react with acrylic paint. Since a wash is 80% thinner, using an acrylic wash on an acrylic paint (or Future) will remove it. Also oils give you a finesse, blendability, and nuances that are unique to the medium. You don't need a coat of Future after each step. Only 2) and 4). I use Micro Set and Sol on Future all the time and have never had a problem.

Hey Tom - looking for some help, new here. I have used Flory washes before but am still unsure as when best in the course of steps to use them. Following the chart above, where would they be inserted as not to wash away the effect? I am currently on step 4 on a kit using Tamiya acrylic as bases from airbrush. Also, confused here - are enamel MM the same as when "oils" are mentioned? For instance lines 7,8 and 9 above. Tks
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 - 12:24 AM UTC
Joe,

I would skip 5, give it the clear flat acrylic coat, and then do the Flory washes. After that, 7 and 8 can indeed be done with thinned MM enamels. 9 with unthinned MM enamels.
Removed by original poster on 05/24/20 - 20:32:59 (GMT).
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