Oh well.
I have added the two other missing bolt heads to each since and holes drilled opposite side.
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New Sherman M4
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, July 13, 2009 - 12:10 AM UTC
Started a new one to go along with the other 3 things not yet done
Oh well.
I have added the two other missing bolt heads to each since and holes drilled opposite side.
Oh well.
I have added the two other missing bolt heads to each since and holes drilled opposite side.
HONEYCUT
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Posted: Monday, July 13, 2009 - 01:08 AM UTC
Hey Jeff
No sweat on multiplicity! I have three Shermans on the go...
A good start you have made. When you say you 'drilled the other side' do you mean the 4 boltholes on the opposite side of the return rollerarm?
On mine I managed to dig up some Tasca trackskids which have the bolts (ok, 3 of them) in place. you probablyalready know, but be certain you use all matching bogey assemblies as the spares are similar but not the same, in not having the added spacer block for the return roller...
Keep us updated!
Brad
No sweat on multiplicity! I have three Shermans on the go...
A good start you have made. When you say you 'drilled the other side' do you mean the 4 boltholes on the opposite side of the return rollerarm?
On mine I managed to dig up some Tasca trackskids which have the bolts (ok, 3 of them) in place. you probablyalready know, but be certain you use all matching bogey assemblies as the spares are similar but not the same, in not having the added spacer block for the return roller...
Keep us updated!
Brad
AlanL
Joined: August 12, 2005
KitMaker: 14,499 posts
Armorama: 11,675 posts
Posted: Monday, July 13, 2009 - 07:49 AM UTC
Very Nice work.Al
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, July 13, 2009 - 01:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Jeff
No sweat on multiplicity! I have three Shermans on the go...
A good start you have made. When you say you 'drilled the other side' do you mean the 4 boltholes on the opposite side of the return rollerarm?
On mine I managed to dig up some Tasca trackskids which have the bolts (ok, 3 of them) in place. you probablyalready know, but be certain you use all matching bogey assemblies as the spares are similar but not the same, in not having the added spacer block for the return roller...
Keep us updated!
Brad
Yes drilled the bolt holes.
Thanks Brad and Alan I will keep updated as much as possible but they have dumped a boat load of work on us for the rest of the year so slow going.
But still glad to have a job to buy the stuff
Cheers
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2009 - 11:07 PM UTC
Well a little more on this thing.
Belt_Fed
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 01:15 AM UTC
Never enough M4s around here. It this dragons latest M4?
AlanL
Joined: August 12, 2005
KitMaker: 14,499 posts
Armorama: 11,675 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 06:15 AM UTC
Moving along nicely Jeff.
Al
Al
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 01:17 PM UTC
Thanks Alan.
I know I am as slow as molasses on a winter day on this one but that dang PE always kicks my butt.
So which version are you building?
Want to start a Marine one soon.
Have the Tarawa one plus the Academy M4A2 one and the Cobra one and a few from Tamiya which I need to do.
Cheers
I know I am as slow as molasses on a winter day on this one but that dang PE always kicks my butt.
So which version are you building?
Want to start a Marine one soon.
Have the Tarawa one plus the Academy M4A2 one and the Cobra one and a few from Tamiya which I need to do.
Cheers
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 02:36 AM UTC
A little update on this one.
Getting to like the look of the Sherman.
Ordered the M-51 one.
Well back to where I am now.
Upper and lower hulls not glued yet.
Comments welcome.
Getting to like the look of the Sherman.
Ordered the M-51 one.
Well back to where I am now.
Upper and lower hulls not glued yet.
Comments welcome.
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 12:56 AM UTC
Ready for paint.
Any thing I have missed here?
Thanks to all.
Comments welcome.
I did use the turret at Toadman's site.
Did this thing also have the rod hangers on it?
Where the red lines show.
Any thing I have missed here?
Thanks to all.
Comments welcome.
I did use the turret at Toadman's site.
Did this thing also have the rod hangers on it?
Where the red lines show.
Pavlovsdog
Joined: June 05, 2006
KitMaker: 438 posts
Armorama: 352 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 01:12 AM UTC
Jeff,
Great looking build on that Sherman, I love the extra little details you have added it really makes it .
I look forward to seeing the paint job progress.
Regards,
Jerry
Great looking build on that Sherman, I love the extra little details you have added it really makes it .
I look forward to seeing the paint job progress.
Regards,
Jerry
The3rdPlacer
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2009 - 02:21 AM UTC
Jeff,
Looking great, get some paint on it!
Those bars may be a add on feature for more stowage?? Not sure.
They don't look standard.
Ryan
Looking great, get some paint on it!
Those bars may be a add on feature for more stowage?? Not sure.
They don't look standard.
Ryan
The3rdPlacer
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2009 - 02:25 AM UTC
Jeff,
One other thingy...
How did those Archer casting symbols go on? Just water slide?
Ryan
One other thingy...
How did those Archer casting symbols go on? Just water slide?
Ryan
Ellevenbravo
Joined: April 08, 2007
KitMaker: 269 posts
Armorama: 261 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2009 - 03:18 PM UTC
It's a nice looking build so far. Can't wait to see it painted up and weathered. Question - what are you going to use for markings? The kit decals suck (inaccurate and very limited choices in my opinion).
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
HONEYCUT
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2009 - 10:21 PM UTC
Hey Jeff
All looks pretty comprehensive mate.
~I'd ditch the periscope guard on the right side of the turret as I have yet to see it protected? I know it says to use it in the instructions, but maybe the DML instructions are wrong (I'll bite my tongue here, although it firmly inside my cheek
)
~The rear bustle grabhandles should be evenly spaced and the top and bottom runs should line up to match each other vertically. The toadman photo is good reference of this.
~The rear hull plate should have a small hole for insertion of the crank which is dead centre and about 5mm down from the top edge.
~You could add the cap which would you removed for addition of the searchlight. The cap can be placed loose on the turret top next to the mount and attached by a small scale chain (such as the cap holders on the front light guards) low down on the pedestal upon the mount itself. A nice little touch often overlooked?
~Maybe the power cable to the siren is a little too bent; the photos I have seen show a smooth 'casing' and minimal undulations. It could be thicker also?
~The siren guard also looks strange. Not the placement, but more the shape of it.
Here is an example I did a little while back... The loop on the cable is specific to the reference I was using, but not necessarily common throughout...
Good luck with the paint job mate
Brad
All looks pretty comprehensive mate.
~I'd ditch the periscope guard on the right side of the turret as I have yet to see it protected? I know it says to use it in the instructions, but maybe the DML instructions are wrong (I'll bite my tongue here, although it firmly inside my cheek
) ~The rear bustle grabhandles should be evenly spaced and the top and bottom runs should line up to match each other vertically. The toadman photo is good reference of this.
~The rear hull plate should have a small hole for insertion of the crank which is dead centre and about 5mm down from the top edge.
~You could add the cap which would you removed for addition of the searchlight. The cap can be placed loose on the turret top next to the mount and attached by a small scale chain (such as the cap holders on the front light guards) low down on the pedestal upon the mount itself. A nice little touch often overlooked?
~Maybe the power cable to the siren is a little too bent; the photos I have seen show a smooth 'casing' and minimal undulations. It could be thicker also?
~The siren guard also looks strange. Not the placement, but more the shape of it.
Here is an example I did a little while back... The loop on the cable is specific to the reference I was using, but not necessarily common throughout...
Good luck with the paint job mate
Brad
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 - 09:16 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Jeff
All looks pretty comprehensive mate.
~I'd ditch the periscope guard on the right side of the turret as I have yet to see it protected? I know it says to use it in the instructions, but maybe the DML instructions are wrong (I'll bite my tongue here, although it firmly inside my cheek
~The rear bustle grabhandles should be evenly spaced and the top and bottom runs should line up to match each other vertically. The toadman photo is good reference of this.
~The rear hull plate should have a small hole for insertion of the crank which is dead centre and about 5mm down from the top edge.
~You could add the cap which would you removed for addition of the searchlight. The cap can be placed loose on the turret top next to the mount and attached by a small scale chain (such as the cap holders on the front light guards) low down on the pedestal upon the mount itself. A nice little touch often overlooked?
~Maybe the power cable to the siren is a little too bent; the photos I have seen show a smooth 'casing' and minimal undulations. It could be thicker also?
~The siren guard also looks strange. Not the placement, but more the shape of it.
Here is an example I did a little while back... The loop on the cable is specific to the reference I was using, but not necessarily common throughout...
Good luck with the paint job mate
Brad
Brad my man are you saying Dragon might of got the instructions wrong????
are you whistling a Bugler song as you write that. 
I will use those suggestions except I am leaving the Horn alone.
Thanks that is what is needed.
Will be done on tomorrow before the green goes on.
Thanks to Jerry working on it and should have some paint on it Fri.
Thanks to Ryan those Archer transfers are a dream to work with same as regular decal.
John thanks to you also I might order the set from Echelon I do not know as I think the side rear numbers are not right.
Tonto is the one I want to use.
Will check more into it before they go on.
Well I think up to date.
Paint soon.
Well black under coat on already.
bigekennedy
Joined: September 11, 2009
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 2 posts
Posted: Friday, September 11, 2009 - 06:55 AM UTC
Jeff,
She is coming along nicely. I have a M4A3 (76)W 1:35 from Dragon that i hope to be starting on in the next few months. Look forward to seeing more of this build. Keep up the good work
Eric
She is coming along nicely. I have a M4A3 (76)W 1:35 from Dragon that i hope to be starting on in the next few months. Look forward to seeing more of this build. Keep up the good work
Eric
Beaver2206
Joined: November 03, 2007
KitMaker: 61 posts
Armorama: 56 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2009 - 09:37 AM UTC
Looking good so far.
With the lights; Can I suggest painting a light/reflecting colour such as silver onto the outside surface of the light. Onto which you would then cover with the primer and base coat stages. When you remove the mask, the silver will show on the inside of the light.
Keep up the good work.
Stuart
With the lights; Can I suggest painting a light/reflecting colour such as silver onto the outside surface of the light. Onto which you would then cover with the primer and base coat stages. When you remove the mask, the silver will show on the inside of the light.
Keep up the good work.
Stuart
PanzerGeek
Joined: February 10, 2008
KitMaker: 221 posts
Armorama: 217 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2009 - 11:59 AM UTC
Very nice. I will have to pick one up my self.
Cant wait to see the paint job.
Cant wait to see the paint job.
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2009 - 12:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Looking good so far.
With the lights; Can I suggest painting a light/reflecting colour such as silver onto the outside surface of the light. Onto which you would then cover with the primer and base coat stages. When you remove the mask, the silver will show on the inside of the light.
Keep up the good work.
Stuart
Oops a little late now as the Green is on
Cheers and thanks folks.
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 11:18 PM UTC
Paint on.
The3rdPlacer
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 11:36 PM UTC
Pics a bit blurry, but the color looks good from here. Nice beginnings to a dusty finish too.
Ryan
Ryan
Tanker9
Joined: January 31, 2009
KitMaker: 165 posts
Armorama: 141 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 07:07 PM UTC
Looks very nice! Keep up the great work!
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:03 PM UTC
I agree on the blurry Pics the dang dude holding the camera was shaking to much.
Me of cause.
Me of cause.
The3rdPlacer
Joined: July 29, 2008
KitMaker: 430 posts
Armorama: 407 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 - 01:35 AM UTC
Go buy one of those cheapo tripods, it will really help your photography.
I also use the timer....set fuse and get away, works like a charm.
As you'll see on some of my posts, I'm still learning the whole camera thing.
This is how I do it, the camera and tripod are not shown....also the blinds are closed and only the lights around the subject are on. The white balance on the camera is set to this type of lighting. (not flourescent) I think they are 75 watt bulbs, I need to go to 100's though.
Ryan
I also use the timer....set fuse and get away, works like a charm.
As you'll see on some of my posts, I'm still learning the whole camera thing.
This is how I do it, the camera and tripod are not shown....also the blinds are closed and only the lights around the subject are on. The white balance on the camera is set to this type of lighting. (not flourescent) I think they are 75 watt bulbs, I need to go to 100's though.
Ryan
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