Hi guys. Inspired by the recent ASLAV-25 and PC builds of Bill Ritchie, Jason Miller and Ray ( Romeo Kilo ) I have decided to build a SECDET 9 Iraq ASLAV-25 named Scorpion King, call sign Victor 2 A.R.N. 16302. It is a Phase 3 ASLAV as seen on page 106 of the excellent Military Briefs #4 ASLAV by John Myszka. Armed with the Trumpeter ASLAV-25 kit, some Eduard etch and lots of Mouse House replacement parts I'm ready to get building.
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The anti-slip surface on the hull is Rona brand KG Excel Textured Matte spray paint as recommended by Bob Read from an earlier thread here on Armorama. Good call Bob!
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The running gear and drive train done. I chose to steer the wheels which cost me an extra 2 to 3 hours but it seems to give the vehicle a more aggressive stance.

And this is where I'm at to this point. Time is tight during the summer but I hope to have it built and painted by the end of July or first week of August. Cheers, Jeff.

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Jeff,
For perfect model you use new Eduard PE for ASLAV.
Miloslav

Hi Miloslav, I've been searching the net looking for that etch set with no luck. Do you know where and when I can get it? Cheers, Jeff.

HI Jeff,

Great job so far.

The Mouse House/Arms Corps Models conversion is outstanding - im just trying to get mine finished off at present:









Im keen to see how yours turns out. Sorry for hijacking your thread,

Regards

Sam Dwyer

Damn thats one smart looking model Sam, and I look forward to watching your progress Jeffrey. Such a shame that Trumpeter made a hash of their kit, ive got one sat in the stash which I might just build OOTB for fun.

One thing about your anti slip coating Jeff, it seems you have completely covered the upper hull, whereas really some areas need to of been masked off, basically around the edges of hatches etc.

Sam, that is a beautiful and clean build of your ASLAV with a textbook application of the anti-slip surface. Don't apologize for posting pictures on the thread, that is exactly what I was hoping for. I want to see the other members work to improve my own skillset and it's a great way for people to educate themselves on the vehicles. The figures from Mouse House look great don't they! I'm looking forward to seeing paint on your build Sam and curious as to what paint you will use. Cheers, Jeff.

Rob, thanks for the reply. I intend to build one OOTB as well, I like the kit that much. Yes, I shortcutted the anti-slip figuring I would scrape off what I didn't want and the other areas would be less noticeable under paint in this scale. In golf terms I am the equivalent of a hacker modeler but I love it and learn a little more and get a little better every time I get at it. Cheers, Jeff.

Looks awesome so far! Makes me want to start mine!
Where do you get the textured spray from?

JEFF Looks great, What brand are those figures, I want some of those

Jeff, how'd u make working steering?
cheers
Nick Sheridan

They are both top notch work. I know the Lav’s very well, Sam your Lav is well on it’s way cant wait to see some paint on it.

Hi guys, I got a little more done today and its starting to look like an ASLAV. Matt, Charles, Nick and Az thank you for the comments. The spray paint I used is not available in Australia but I have read that any textured matte/suede finish rattle can spray paint will work. The figures are from Mouse House Armor of Australia and sold as item MAF-801, they are outstanding. Nick, I will get back to you on the steering.

The rear hull finished.

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Some of the right side hull done.

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Until next time cheers, Jeff

G'day Jeffrey,
Here is a bit more information on ARN 16302.
Have a look at the ASLAV-25 at the top of page 105. Same car but in 2005. The same car that I made the conversion from.
Pages 108 and 109 show C/S V2 in more depth.

The kit is looking good. Glad you like the figures.

Cheers Jason

Hi again,

Here's mine under primer:





Sam

HI Jason, thanks for the commnts. I didn't notice that the picture on page 105 is ARN 16302. It is without squadron nickname, callsign and in bar armor configuration. The vehicles stay in theatre while the crews rotate through them, so was it the SECDET 9 crew who added the other markings and put the vehicle in standard configuration? Cheers, Jeff.

Hi Sam, welcome back. What is your experience with paintig rubber tires? Having read the massive ASLAV thread posted earlier here on Armorama Bill Ritchie said he had peeling and seperation of the tire from the rim, has this happened to you? Looking forward to seeing paint on your ASLAV. Cheers, Jeff.

HII Jeff,
no paint other than Tamiya Grey Primer on there at this stage. No cracking at this stage either, which is good news. I've ordered a set of Real Models' ASLAV/Bison/Coyote wheels for the Trumpeter kits. These are slightly bulged and looked too good to pass up. I used the Mouse House/ACM hub set for the kit wheels, and as you can see in the shots, they look spot on. My fear of the wheels cracking has me tempted to use the resin Real Models ones, so if theyre any good, I'll use them. If not, i'll use them on an ASLAV in East Timor, covered in mud!

I've also ordered a couple of tins of White Ensign Models 'Lustreless Olive Drab', so i'll let you know how that goes when it arrives. Im no fan of enamel paints particularly, but the chance to not have to mix paint was too good to pass up.

I'll post some more shots when im done.

Sam

Hi Sam, I feel the same regarding the wheels. I've built the Real Model Uparmored Coyote and the wheels look fantastic, I was so impressed I ordered a second Coyote and two sets of wheels just for an ASLAV-25 and PC build. Comparing them though, the Mouse House hub and Trumpeter tire are a larger diameter but have far more defined hub detail. I'm torn on which set to use ( my apologies on the photo quality, I don't own high tech equipment and lighting ) .

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Sam, on the paint topic I am considering using Valejo Model Color USA Tan Earth-70874, Reflective Green-70890, Black-70950 all lightened for scale effect with Flat Flesh-70955. Any thoughts on this line of paint and the colors I've listed? Any input is appreciated. Cheers, Jeff.

Sorry, I should have added this photo to the last post. These are the Real Model wheels on the Coyote, they really look the business don't they!
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Jeffrey
The problems I had with the rubber tires was with the Valejo primer I think. I tried to paint the tire and then the rims so to isolate any reaction from the dissimilar resin Mouse House hubs, the plastic Trump inner hubs and the vinyl tires. I used cyano glue to join the inner faces of the resin outer hub and plastic inner hub (not primed but cleaned and roughed up) to keep everything sandwiched together. On the Mouse House resin hub inserts there is a resin casting plug that needs to be removed and I think I didn't remove enough to the two parts didn't pull the vinyl tires together leaving them loose so I didn't get the nice tight look of the rim against the wheel. The MH hubs are so fine that I had one that had the outer rim separate making it a delicate operation to get it back in place.
During all this fussing around the Valejo primer separated from the vinyl tires. The Valejo primer also failed to adhere to the resin rear hull of my PC. When I removed the roo decal (applied the wrong way) I had to sand and feather the entire side of the hull which was a real #!*!!&^. I'd never had this issue with Tamiya primers but there was too many factors to blame one thing over another.
In the future I will use Tamiya primers and pray for some one to make the correctly sized resin wheels. I bought the Real Model ones you did but by your demonstration I do see the size discrepancy and I worry about my plans for them.
I am enjoying this thread guys, wonderful to see so many options for this vehicle.
Bill

Hi Bill,good to hear from you. I have read elsewhere about others negative experiences with Valejo primer, I am steering clear of it and using Tamiya which seems to be a universal acrylic and enamel basecoat. I don't know which one of the wheels dimension is correct but the Mouse rims are bang on, I just like the look and sit of the Real Model wheels better. A brave man would drill out the Real Model hubs and insert the Mouse hubs but if you screwed it up it would be an expensive mistake. Any daredevils? Cheers, Jeff.

Hi guys, I had a good night of building and got a fair amount done. The right side of the hull is complete:
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The top front of the hull is complete:


And I got a little of the left side hull finished:


Hopefully the next post on the thread will include some of the turret constructed. Cheers, Jeff.

Jeffrey
Good progress. I meant to follow up on an earlier question by Nick about the steering, rather the orientation of the front steerable wheels. How did you determine the correct angle of each set of wheels in relation to the other? Did you have to do much in the way of surgery on the suspension to make this work?
I look forward to your next installment.
Bill

Hi Bill, we need an expert opinion on the steering but it seems to me through looking at photographs that the second wheel station only turns half the radius of the first wheel station, that is how I steered my ASLAVs wheels ( I hope its correct! ). To turn the wheels I cut off the semi-circle node on top of the shock tower (part A3/A4 ) and sand flat. I then cut out .010" styrene sheet discs just the right size diameter to fit in the shock tower housing.I glue these to the top of the modified shock towers to help keep them centered in the housing and give a larger cementing surface. The drive train and suspension are then assembled as per the instructions but I dont glue the shock towers or struts ( part A25 ). Once its together I put an assembled wheel on a shock housing, turn it to the desired radius and glue it all in place removing the wheel afterword. Lastly you will have to modify the steering assemblies ( parts A22 ) by cutting out the rods that connect to the shock towers and replace with lengthened/shortened setions of styrene rod to match the amount you have turned the wheels. It is not correct but is the easiest way I know to manipulate the steering. Sorry I couldnt articulate it a little better but you will see what I am talking about when you look at the instructions and the parts themselves. I hope this helped to answer your question Bill and I didnt forget about you Nick. Cheers, Jeff.

Jeffrey
Excellent explanation. I will give it a go on my next build. I think the turned wheel and compressed/ expanded wheels going over obstacles really gives life to a diorama. Thanks for taking the time to reference the kit parts as well, very helpful.
Regards
Bill