Hey guys.

Thought i would post up some photos of my T-62 build. Share some of the techniques i have and will be using.

First up, i found photos of a pair of abandoned T-62s in Iraq. My build will try to adopt the best of the two interms of damage and other unique features.

The paintjob will be identical, Iraq Sand base coat with a light russian green camo overspray.

This will be a heavily battle damaged and worn out build with a fair bit of rust, dirt and mud, all the good things a heavily weathered vehicle undergoes, and that the modeller loves reproducing in scale







Here i have begun the build. Overall fits nicely. Some details will be omitted, while others are modified to show damage, such as the side sheet metal parts.



Close up of the filled in locator tab for the side sheet metal components..



The modified part.











Damage was created using a method i learned on the Plamo Japanese modelling show.

Purchased a pack of incense sticks. These burn at a very high temperature, but with no visible flame. Moving the stick under the plastic heats and then softens it, and it can then be formed with your fingers.

Test on a scrap piece of the plastic from the kit, as some manufacturers plastics soften quicker or slower.

More to come.

Hope you enjoy it!!

Cheers Damian.

Great photos Damian and nice work

Thats a neat trip on bending and damaging the fenders, I always found that an open flame just burnt them so almost gave up on the idea of using heat, have to try this though.

Cant wait to see the build take shape.

Now this is right up my ally and am looking forward to seeing how this progresses. I like the way your using the kit parts , such as the fenders, to portray a damaged tank. No need for AM high tech stuff ehh.

I have this book marked and will follow along til the end.

Keep up the great work Damian, love what you've done so far.

Rob
www.scratchmod.com

It's great to see another Wreck. Nice start to yout T-62. It's looking good your techniuqe of heating the fenders and then bending them is good but I think they're abit soft they don't look like they have the impression of pressed steel.
Rob posted a cool way to make fenders and skirts using Verlinden's lead foil.
it's here link Thats my two pennies for you. Great work never the less.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I worked on the kit abit more last night, will post up some more photos tonight. The fenders were just a testbed for the incense sticks. Dont think i will add them to the kit.

Cheers for the feedback guys!!!

Very Helpful!

Damian

Hey Guys

Just a short update on the progress.

I began damaging up the road wheels, showing rubber that has torn away. This was achieved by simply using a motortool/dremel with a round course sanding bit.



I made this cloth/rag from foil taken from a wine bottle. Its fairly thick and has identical qualities to lead foil. This will server as a 'white flag' for the final diorama.



The inside of the left hatch had three very deep injector pin marks. These were filled with tamiya putty, with extra thin cement brushed on after. This smoothed the putty, removing the need to sand, while at the same time adding a fine cast texture finish.
Handles were removed and replaced with wire.




I drilled out one of the bolts on the baseplate. Perhaps lost during field maintenance?


In addition it was also sanded down, reducing overall thickness.


The side hinge bolt detail had a seam running down the middle. I sanded this detail smooth and cut two bolts from a part from the spares box.



Thats all for now guys.

I hope to get all the wheels done tonight and maybe one side of the tracks fitted.

I plan to start painting this baby up next week.

More photos tomorrow.

Cheers Damian!

Hi Damian,

great work so far. I found the first shot while googling the other day, and its on my very soon to do list.. i.e. my next project I think.

The 3 shots you posted are of the same vehicle, taken at different times, with different people rummaging.

I think the T62 pictured isnt a 1962 model as per the Trumpeter kit, you can tell this from the loaders hatch set up. Its got the 2/3rds opening, rather than the full round hatch like in the kit. The model 1972 version is now available (listings on ebay already) - this one might be more appropriate for this vehicle..

Having said that, it has the earlier track, rather than the T72 style track of the mod 72 vehicle..

Looking forward to seeing your further progress.

Regards

SD

whhhaaaaatt

hahaha, no biggie. It was never my intention to model the exact vehicle. I just fell in love with the colour of the camo and all the various weathering going on.

Its more of a fun build trying to bring lots of ideas forward, rather than a 100% accurate reproduction.

Do you know of any frontal shots that exist for this particular tank?

Thanks for the feedback!

Cheers Damian

Hey Guys

A small update.

Today i managed to get the wheels done. This took more time than expected, each wheel taking around 15 minutes ; removing the original tread, damaging with the motor tool, further sanding and then polishing.




It was a very messy process.



But i am happy with the end result, looks effective and i cant wait to paint it up.



Added the kit railing on one side, while on the other.....only the support tabs remain (made from sheet styrene), again modelling random damage + reference photos seemed to show the railing missing often.





I also drilled out this hole found in the baseplate of the searchlight support. I think it was used as a cable routing hole.... . Either way, i found it in my reference photos so out it came.



I also managed to get one of the fuel drum support rods done, and the supporting bracket aswell. Made from sheet styrene, and bent to shape using the incense stick method. I think it turned out ok, looks like fragile metal, and once painted should look like the real deal. The other side, will not include the arms, just the base arm support sections (more scratchbuilding)


Also damaged up the screens at the rear, and added a cloth...not sure if it will remain, but i want to model this one as a very 'lived on' used and abused vehicle.

Finally one side of the tracks was assembled. They go together well, but require ALOT of cleaning.

The sheetmetal sides remain to be added and finished. But i am currently experimenting with some sheet styrene scratch built alternatives (the kit parts once bent looked a little to thick), the right side will also be bent very extensively, so i think the sheet styrene will work better!/

Thats all for today!!

Cheers Damian

Hey Guys.

Another quick update.

I went ahead and created the side skirts from sheet styrene.

These were built relatively quickly.



The kit section bracket supports (the vertical triangles), were cut from the kit part, thinned slightly and glued to the new part.

The new parts bent very easily using the incense method, and created a very realistic sheet metal look. The reinforcement strips on the bottom were also added.















I think the damage looks far more realistic now. I recommend anyone trying to model something similiar to either replace the kits parts with styrene, or thin the kit parts from the bottom and then just add scratch support strips.

Thats all for now.

Cheers Damian

Wow. I think your fenders look great. I may do this myself when it comes time to build my T-62s

Damian
Are you using a hair dryer to bent the plastic sheet ???

it look really nice and real
Congrats
Seb

Hey Guys.

Thanks for the feeback.

Seb, the method is using incense sticks, the type found in asian markets, they burn at a very high temperature, but with no visible flame. It does'nt burn the plastic, but heats it extremely high, to the point where it becomes incredibly soft.

Another bonus is, they are thin and round, and can be controlled very easily.


Cheers Damian

And the man cave smells great......
Results are superb, by the way.
Question: It looks like you've heat-swedged the axles to retain the road wheels. Would poly caps work? Does it look like they should have been included in the kit?

[/quote]Question: It looks like you've heat-swedged the axles to retain the road wheels. Would poly caps work? Does it look like they should have been included in the kit?[/quote]

Hi Russel.

The stuff you see is actually common blu-tack, just used to keep the roadwheels on there for photo purposes.

I would recomment polycaps, or even a single layer of Tamiya tape around the axle.

Should polycaps have been included.?....YES

Il update this in the next few days, but the inner roadwheels have been glued. The axle mount has a small edge around the inner side, this was glued to the opposing edge off the axle, which inturn was glued to the hull. Its the only option when gluing the inner roadwheel to the axle. Make sure it looks even on the back and the wheel should looks accordingly.

Funnily enough some inner roadwheels fit nicely and required no adjustment.><

Make sure you glue the correct roadwheels on the far left and far right, ie the ones closer to the drive sprocket and idler. These have holes with larger diameters to accompany the larger hubs. But they look identical to the other roadwheels if you do not look carefully enough. I mixed mine up a few times, and had to triple check before gluing.

Ive been working on other projects lately so havent updated as much, but ETA on painting is still this week.

Cheers Damian



This may or may not help.

Damian, that's exactly the kind of answer I was looking for, thanks very much.
One wonders why something as simple as road wheels would be so complicated.....

How did you come up with the idea on incense rods ??

Really great, but can you still see the workbench after burning a dozen of such rods ???

Glad to be of some help.

Actually they burn so slow, i bought some that were low odour and slow burn.

Im actually still on the first incense stick, only about 1/4 burnt.

Good idea is to have a small fan next to you, so that the smoke moves away from your face.

The idea came from a Japanese TV Show, its called: Plamo Tsukurou CUSTOM
on the FujiTV channel. Literally translates to 'custom plastic model making'.

Its a supurb show and has alot of tips of tricks from the Japanese world of scale model building. One word of caution, the show is not in english, and is not subtitled.

But if you know Japanese...well....im jelous.

Cheers Damian.

Nice build so far.

How is the kit straight out of the Box?

Looks pretty decent from what I have seen from your build.

Tracks any good or replacements in metal better?

Thanks for answers.

Keep on building.

The kit, straight out the box, is good.

Some details are on the thicker side (the protective welded cage that goes over the front lights)

While others are incredibly fine, such as the grab handles.

Tracks are well detailed and fit well.

However Trumpeters method of molding these. (4 different injection points, 2 either side of the track), make cleaning these incredibly time consuming. However i understand why they did it (to avoid sink marks on the tracks detail side). Dragons slide molding tech makes this problem non-existant.

Other than that. No complaints.

ETA on the completion of the building is tomorow night, still adding all the little bits and pieces.


Cheers

Damian

Excellent work, Damian. I really love the wear and tear effects.

Nice build so far.

How is the kit straight out of the Box?

Looks pretty decent from what I have seen from your build.

Tracks any good or replacements in metal better?

Thanks for answers.

Keep on building.

See above, double post mate

Cheers Damian

Hey Guys

Just another update. The build is nearing the end, 99% done.

Im in the process of scratch building the protective cage for the front headlamps.

Various tracklinks, towcables and rubbish will also be added to the hull sides.

I drilled out most the fitting etc, leaving just the metal brackets and such.

But my references photos showd most of these absent.















Cheers Damian