Nice work on the corrections Chris. I know what you mean, it can be frustrating when kit parts just don't correspond at all to reference photos.

If a modeller can do it with putty and plasticard why on earht can't big hobby companies get these things right in the first place? They have much better resources than us!

Yes is sad that companies can over look such details, But then again it took me awhile to even spot it. I had these photos for the last month and not until now did I spot some of the minor flaws. I guess some things can be overlooked until you have part and photo in had to compare them against. Overall I still think it’s a great kit to have, would I go this much trouble detailing the next T-62 I get, probably not. I still like to get trumpy’s new T-62 mod 72 and build something simple with it. I still highly recommend this kit to anyone out there, I’m sure it won’t be long before some makes an update for this kit.
Chris

Hi Chris, frankly I am amazed at the level of detailing, not to mention the work it takes, that is going into this model. My hat goes off to you.
I will definitely be following this build very closely for when I finally start my wreck T55 and T62.
keep up the awesome work, and keep all the updates coming.

Rob
www.scratchmod.com

Thanks Rob for all the kind words. Some of this building process can be a little frustrating at time since some of the parts are so small and having two boys standing there watching and asking questions. But in the end it’s worth it to me, I can never seem to build anything straight out the box. I think the only kit I have that is somewhat straight is the M1117 I started to work on. The details I’m using on this build could also be used towards a T-55 since the 62 is nothing more than a lengthen 55 hull with a new turret slapped on it and few minor changes here and there. But feel free to use anything thing from this blog you want too. I’m trying explaining as much as I can, but sometimes I forget myself what I had used to build with. Anyways the hatch is really starting to shape up and I’m pleased how it is turning out so far. I just got done making the casting numbers from left over archer decals for the opel blitz and just waiting for more drying time on the putty. Happy modeling to everyone.
Chris

Well I’ve made some small improvements on the turret tonight, or should I say some very tiny parts. There’s two small brackets added to the top of the turret, one to the right of the shell ejector hatch and one just to the left of the loader’s sight. Also I’ve added a new tie down point just slightly to the right of the ejector hatch made from left over wire from the metal tracks. The spot light and rear IR position light received a new mounting post made from thin plastic along with the spot light being elevated on top of the post. Wire was run for both lights to the corresponding port for the cables next to the mount. Also a very tiny electrical item possibly a horn or such has been added just below the commander’s hatch. I’m assuming it’s a horn since it’s not an IR light due to the fact it has no Ping-Pong light associated with IR lights. It was made from plastic rob sanded to shape, stretch sprue, strip plastic and wire went into making it. I decide to add some of the smaller details to the turret while I waited for the putty to dry on the hatch so I can finish sanding it. Hopefully sometime this week I can start adding the supports for bar armor which will be my last major hurdle on the turret. Then I can finish the front hull and then the big job of painting.
Chris

Chris,

I don't wanna slow you down with your progress but the light atop the turret should be facing towards the rear. If you look at your first two photos you can see this.

Someone on here (I forgot who) pointed out that the tank trumpeter used as reference had it wrong as well.

Outstanding work on details
I love it
Cheers
Seb

Hey Sean the light can actually face any direction, it's on a ball joint that permits it to swivel in any direction. I've encluded a photo of the real thing. As you can see from the photo it is facing towards the front. There's an article I read about the crews using the spot light at night to work on the engine and what not. But yes trumpeter's mount is modelled wrong.
Chris

Here's another photo of an Iraqi T-62 with the light also facing towards the front. But most of the photos do some the light towards the rear. I just decided to do something different.


I do know that some also used them a break light. Here's another one that is displayed some where in Russia

Touche my friend. Just thought I'd point it out but you have all your ducks in a row.

It was hard to tell as I've only seen pictures like the two in your first post.

Keep up the good work.

one more I just came across. the first two are towards the rear as the last is facing foward.

It's all up to the modeller to decide

Sorry Sean, I'm not touchy at all. Sorry if it seemed that way, I didn't want to come across that way. But once you pointed that I had to go back and check my refernce and hope I didn't have a bogus photo or something. Any way I was trying to tell everyone they can model the light any way they want too, foward or backwards
Chris

No worries, I choose to do mine backwards but I'm just building the kit out of the box and with a simple flip and fill with putty I got this.




On the next go around I'll work at some scratch building if I can muster up the courage

Well I’ve finally finished the commander’s cupola tonight and boy I'm glad that’s over with. It took me just as long to detail this part of the kit as it did to make a new fender. In my eyes it’s still not 100% correct but is damn close to it, just hard to work with such small parts and trying to make parts of the real thing. But it’s done and I’m very pleased with how it turned out. As you can see from the photos, there is not much left of the original underside of the hatch. A plastic ring was installed that was cut to shape of the contours and putty filled in and sanded to shape. Casting numbers from a left over archer decal sheet was used on some plastic strip, once in place; liquid cement was used to replicate the cast texture. A new locking mechanism for the signal port was made with plastic rod and brass wire and inserted into a small hole slightly drilled enough to except the part. Two new combat locks were added to the side and bottom again made from plastic and a homemade punch set. New periscopes were also made to represent the photos I have. A rubber head pad was added to the top of the scope and a retaining clamp made from flattened solder and plastic wing nut. Brass wire grab handle was added to finish off the project. Next up on my list to complete is the IR spot light for the main gun and then the mounting brackets for the bar armor. I had to order more plastic today so I can start working on the front hull which will be another big project for me. But so far everything is really starting to shape up for me.
Chris

hey Chris!

i really admire your patience & determination not to mention your great skill. i just cant wait to see whats coming next!

Gary

Hi Chris, great detailing on the turret hatch, but don't you think those numbers are too over scale?

You might be better with something like this from Royal Model

Yes Jon my numbers are just a tad bit overscale, put once under a coat of paint, it should look just fine. Besides I used what I had in the house at the time, I tried to use the numbers of the plastic sprues, but had no luck craving the numbers off without distroying them. Like I said it's not 100% correct, but much better than before. This tank is a learning expreince for me and new ideas I have been wanting to try out. But next build I will probably order some smaller numbers to work with.
Chris

Thanks Gary, Some of this can be a little bit tedious and fiddly to work with. I can’t even been to say how many times I have lost parts to the floor or had to remake them due to the fact I didn’t cut them right in the first place. But in the end it’s worth it.
Chris

Like you say Chris I'm sure it will look less obvious with paint etc.

Things like these PE numbers are useful but they are also quite expensive, i think this is 7 euro or something. Quite a luxury maybe!

Oh great now that I see the awesome detailing on the inside of the hatch, I've put off starting mine even further. Damn that looks freaking awesome. This is one of the best T62 models I have seen. I have book marked this build for when I do get the nerve to start mine.
This just gets better and better with each update.Please keep um coming.

Rob
www.scratchmod.com

Thanks for all the kind words Rob. This build has been a real pleasure for me. Yes there are a few areas I could of done better, like Jon pointing out the size of my casting numbers or some small detail I forgot to add. But this is all something I learn from and add to notes for the next build. I just hope in the long run when it comes time for paint, I don’t ruin the details. I’m still trying to work out the best way to paint this model as most I have seen are either 2 or 3 tone paint job. I could freehand the scheme or try to mask, but I’m afraid the masking will break parts off and the freehand will cause too much splatter effect. It would be simpler for a solid green, but that’s not what I want to do. Any ideas?
Chris

Chris as for the masking, I know what you mean, I hate when the small detail parts get broken or worse, lost. For the masking there are several ways to do it. masking fluid,tape, blue tack and even playdough. Either way it's a risk when masking. Free hand with a fine needle and correctly thinned paints sure work fine.
Not much help eh. Good luck when it does come down to the painting.

Rob
www.scratchmod.com

Hi Chris, I agree with Rob.

When I did the tritonal camo scheme on my T-90 I did it free hand with the airbrush.

Overspray isn't too much of a problem as long as you have a decent double action airbrush and correctly thinned paint. Plus you can always touch up mistakes later, even if its by hand using thinned paint by brush. Vallejo paints are great for this. On my T-90 I used Tamiya Acrylic in the airbrush and matching shades in Vallejo model colour by brush to tidy up mistakes.

Thanks guys, that does help some. Like Jon said, I can always paint freehand and go back and touch up with a paint brush. I do have some vallejo model air paint I have been wanting to try out. As you can see from this photo I painted it with posterboard putty and it took me way too long to paint and not to mention it's pulled up parts with it. But in the case of this model it might be much easier to paint freehand. Thanks, Chris

Well I just finished making modifications to the last of the kit parts for the turret. The base for the IR search light has been completely rebuilt. I wasn’t happy with the way it looked and from what photo’s of the real shows, the supports for the light are modeled wrong. On top of that, the base it’s self is made from multiple parts with a gap in the middle that has an elevating clamp that is missing. The bottom of the base also has an assist clamp added to one of the supports. In this area the only thing used from the kit are the two supports and the smaller spot light. Brass wire was used to wire up the lights. I used an extra light from a SP kit for a T-80 as I felt this light was better detailed than the kit light. A new elevating arm for the main gun and spot light was rebuilt also. Brass wire, plastic rod, and strip plastic went into making this pain in the butt part. The kit part was just a little bit thick and miss shaped some. Now I can turn my attention to making the support brackets for the bar armor and then the turret with be finished finally.
Chris