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Armor/AFV: Early Armor
WWI and other early tanks and armored cars.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Emhar Mk IV Male 'no alternative sorry :('
drkwing
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Posted: Monday, August 02, 2010 - 05:04 AM UTC
I can hear some of you saying 'ooh not another Emhar Mk IV...' but unfortunately there is no other alternative if you want to build a British WW I tank.





I wish a new, more correct and more detailed British WWI tank comes out. But somehow these vehicles are forgotten...

Anyway, I have bought this kit from Italy during a business trip. Although the price is not so cheap, I bought it cause these are hard to find. After reading from various forums that the kit's tracks are really troublesome.
Emhar supplied tracks:



I started to search for replacement tracks. Accurate armor has come up with a replacement resin set, but they do not offer it from their website anymore. Finally I ve found those tracks and ordered the set.

On the other hand, my search for some additional after market items led me to Airwaves has got a good set of photoetch that includes a complete sponson door - although you have to cut the built in door from the sponson - and the unditching beam rails and some extras.



barkingdigger
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#013
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Posted: Monday, August 02, 2010 - 05:58 AM UTC
Hey drkwing,

So you saw all the oyther threads on this kit and still decided to build one? You have courage, mon ami...

The kit tracks can be tamed with a little lateral thinking. I found it best to glue all the segments into a complete track first, and then start by gluing the centre of the track to the middle of the top run (about 5cms or so) and let dry over night. Then, I glued the next 5cms in each direction (again drying overnight) and so on until eventually I had the two ends meeting under the tank. That way any gap could be "lost" underneath where it cannot be seen. The tracks glue well with Humbrol liquid cement. Be warned that they also react badly to Humbrol enamel paint! Mine stayed sticky for weeks...

Sadly the detail on the tracks is poor.

Post some pics of the resin tracks! They might tempt me to build a Mk V.

Tom

(Proud owner of a Mk IV, Mk IV "Tadpole", and Whippet, all built pretty much OOB.)
jon_a_its
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Posted: Monday, August 02, 2010 - 06:06 AM UTC
I used the Airwaves PE on mine, but found it difficult to bend the 'L' shapes for the unditching rails (before I got a PE bending tool)

They are in my view, too big so I got some thin brass 'L' shape from the model shop & used that in 1 section, cutting fillets on the inside of the bends where needed, finishing off with an unditching beam from a firework rocket stick & model chain.

I didn't use the PE door, private message me if you want it, & i will try to find it.

The tracks are awfull, but I used them, using superglue to glue 1 section at a time, and a lot of mud to hide it.
The AA tracks do look a lot better though.

Google Bovington MK IV for loads of photos.

I enjoyed my build, as it was a simple kit, & was my first use of PE & replacing kit parts.
GeraldOwens
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Posted: Monday, August 02, 2010 - 10:12 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I used the Airwaves PE on mine, but found it difficult to bend the 'L' shapes for the unditching rails (before I got a PE bending tool)

They are in my view, too big so I got some thin brass 'L' shape from the model shop & used that in 1 section, cutting fillets on the inside of the bends where needed, finishing off with an unditching beam from a firework rocket stick & model chain.

I didn't use the PE door, private message me if you want it, & i will try to find it.

The tracks are awfull, but I used them, using superglue to glue 1 section at a time, and a lot of mud to hide it.
The AA tracks do look a lot better though.

Google Bovington MK IV for loads of photos.

I enjoyed my build, as it was a simple kit, & was my first use of PE & replacing kit parts.


Model Cellar in the US has reissued their styrene WW1 tank tracks. They are easier to work with than resin, but the are molded a bit thick (since the original shoes were stamped from rather thin steel plate, which is hard to injection mold to scale thinness). Purists will want to thin the edges a bit (Tamiya's recent Char B tracks have a similar problem). Alternatively Panzer Shop in Europe offers some resin link and length tracks.
Dutchy3RTR
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Posted: Monday, August 02, 2010 - 11:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text

...
I started to search for replacement tracks. Accurate armor has come up with a replacement resin set, but they do not offer it from their website anymore. Finally I ve found those tracks and ordered the set...




Err, the Accurate Armour track is still there...
http://www.accurate-armour.com/ShowProduct.cfm?manufacturer=0&category=12&subcategory=94&product=497
drkwing
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Posted: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 08:08 PM UTC
Oops why didnt I see that?
drkwing
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Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 04:14 AM UTC
I've cut the barrel of the 6 pounders and replaced them with aluminum tubing.

Here is the cut barrel:


The aluminum tubing barrel replacement:


I've also cut the right sponson door to replace it with photoetch. The cut door frame and new barrel together:




One of the barrels after priming. What do you think about the barrels? I think they are better than the kit supplied ones.



tanknick22
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Posted: Friday, August 06, 2010 - 05:22 AM UTC
i have this interest in ww1 vehicles right now one of the things id like to build is a ww1 tank in american markings would i be better of building a ft-17 or the mark4 in american markings?
ianclasper
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Posted: Friday, August 06, 2010 - 07:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

i have this interest in ww1 vehicles right now one of the things id like to build is a ww1 tank in american markings would i be better of building a ft-17 or the mark4 in american markings?



I think there is more info available on the US Army's FT-17s because of its association with George Patton.

FT 17 with George Patton

Also, there are many more persevered examples of FT-17s to reference.

Ian
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#417
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Posted: Friday, August 06, 2010 - 09:10 AM UTC
Oykun,

Are you planning to fix the sponsons? If I remember correctly, the initial reviews of this kit stated taht the spons shapes were off on all sides. The kit is too "boxy" while the accurate shapes of the panels are more subtle than is apparent on the kit. I remember a review in Tankette (by Dick Harley, I think???)when the kits first came out that was pretty brutal on the shape of pretty much the whole kit, but the sposons in particular.

Paul
drkwing
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Posted: Friday, August 06, 2010 - 09:26 AM UTC
Paul,

I think I can live with the sponsons being not accurate, besides I do not have any information regarding the correct shape of them. But I would like to have look at the paper you mentioned.

I think it is about time that new, accurate and more detailed kits of these forgotten monsters are issued. Roden's Rolls Royce armoured car was a very good move by Roden.

Best regards
drkwing
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Posted: Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 07:31 AM UTC
After a long while I started to add some bricks to the wall...

Here is the situation so far:








AlanL
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Posted: Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 08:45 AM UTC
Hi Oykun,

Model Cellar do some repolacement tracks also

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/news/5985

They also do a CRIB Mk.IV Trench Crossing Device

http://www.modelcellar.com/prod01.htm

Nice work so far.

Al
drkwing
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2012 - 09:29 AM UTC
I finished putting the beast together finally.

Sprayed the the primer coat using tamiya fine primer.

Here is the progress so far:









Murdo
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2012 - 12:20 PM UTC
That looks really good Oykun, why not join the WW1 Campaign build? Lots of excellent stuff going on there!

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Campaigns&file=index&req=showcontent&id=482

And the "Official Thread"

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/184148&page=1



firstcircle
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2012 - 01:14 PM UTC
Oykun, of course you can live with the sponsons being not accurate! It's looking good under that primer, I haven't seen one of these close up like this before and I think the detail looks nice - the gun barrel you've made looks great, by the way.

Dimensions are one thing, but getting the "look" right is, I believe, the most important thing. The challenge then is going to be the tracks I guess, as one thing about these tanks is that there is a lot of track visible, and it is one of things that gives that "look". Have you decided what approach to take with them yet? Have you thought about making your own?
drkwing
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2012 - 06:19 PM UTC
Murdo & Matthew thanks!

Matthew, I have the accurate armor resin track set which looks really good. I will start priming them soon.

I'm still not sure about it; but I think I will paint them first, and then attach them on the chassis. the problem is there will be lots seams in between the track pieces and I hope gluing them after painting will not ruin the paint job.

The tracks come in long strips and then small pieces.
gremlinz
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2012 - 08:04 PM UTC
That looks really good, just shows that despite the drawbacks of the kit you can still turn it into something really good with a little bit of good old modelling skill.
vonHengest
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Posted: Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 12:39 AM UTC
I dig any WWI armor build, nice work on the guns. Subscribed, looking forward to next update!
mozart
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 01:54 AM UTC
Hey Oykun,

Very good details and upgrades on such a horrible kit. looks great so far.Good luck with the Emhar supplied tracks ) hope you are not gonna use them

drkwing
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 06:34 AM UTC
Sevgili Mozart,

Thank you for your nice comment

I will use Accurate Armor's Resin Track set for my Mark IV.
drkwing
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 06:36 AM UTC
Now, one question that I would like to have some help.

How do I achieve a look for my tracks just like the ones in this photograph??

Please provide as much detail as possible for paint color, wash color, drybrush color, etc.


AlanL
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 07:22 AM UTC
Hi Oykun,

Nice progress on the kit. For the tracks I'd use very fine mud and Mig Pigments. From the colours in the picture I'd use a mix of all the colours Dark Mud, Dry Mud, Light Sand and Russian Earth plus soem Brick Dust.

Pigmnets can be aplied with a little dilute PVA glue and also just dusted on or used to stain the fine soil to the required colour.

I'd use a combinaton of all.

Cheers

Al
drkwing
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 05:28 AM UTC
Before the pigments, what do you think the main and wash colors should be?

I can think of two different approaches
i. paint the tracks using a darkened steel color,and wash using a dark earth or brown color and dark brown wash around rivets
ii. paint a dark earth/brown color, black brown wash around rivets and beneath the shoe protrusions and a final wash of dust color
drkwing
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Posted: Sunday, April 01, 2012 - 12:47 AM UTC
After priming, I have sprayed a very dark brownish color to the selected shadowy ares on the model.

Here is the result:




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